need some insight on a technical issue i have

[RRice]

well i got up at 6AM this morning at went back at it..and noticed something very odd..without anything hooked to my laptop other than the laptop PS..if i click the "Test for Valid Interface Using Settings " button i get cable found and functional..so it would appear that there is something funky going on in my laptop..if i do this same test without anything hooked to my desktop in the house it fails...i may have to drag my backup system back off the shelf and toss it into the van..

man i sure hope this 2 transistor circuit didn't cause this problem with my laptop...
i added the circuit i used..maybe someone can let me know if this is what caused the problem with my laptop or if the issue has always been there..
but most importantly..is this even the right circuit?

2 web sites list this circuit as being 160/8192 and at least 1 other i found says it's just 160 baud and doesn't mention anything about being 8192 capable

[Fast355]

well i got up at 6AM this morning at went back at it..and noticed something very odd..without anything hooked to my laptop other than the laptop PS..if i click the "Test for Valid Interface Using Settings " button i get cable found and functional..so it would appear that there is something funky going on in my laptop..if i do this same test without anything hooked to my desktop in the house it fails...i may have to drag my backup system back off the shelf and toss it into the van..

man i sure hope this 2 transistor circuit didn't cause this problem with my laptop...
i added the circuit i used..maybe someone can let me know if this is what caused the problem with my laptop or if the issue has always been there..
but most importantly..is this even the right circuit?

2 web sites list this circuit as being 160/8192 and at least 1 other i found says it's just 160 baud and doesn't mention anything about being 8192 capable

I have used that circuit before and it worked well for 160 and 8192. Also built this circuit once and it works as well. The data seems a little cleaner from this setup than the simple 2 transistor arrangement.

http://wbo2.com.au/~techedge.com.au/...192/8192hw.htm

[RRice]

yeah that's the circuit i used with my Max232 chip altho the cap values are different..i may have to alter the ones that came on the pcb which are SMD type ..and use something more in the range that are on the schematic you supplied..

i'll post back in a few after i figure out why tunerpro v5 won't install on the backup computer..it's a compaq just like the laptop so who knows lol

[RRice]

Does Tuner pro v5 require any .net frameworks to be installed.. if so which one?
or require any other MS installs

i can install v4 but not v5 i get the following error when i open the exe

AppName: tunerpro.exe AppVer: 5.0.8383.0 ModName: tunerpro.exe
ModVer: 5.0.8383.0 Offset: 0005a9cf

i Installed v5.6156 and it runs ok..or at least i'm not getting the error above..

I'll download some of the older builds of V5 and see what happens

Edit: Had to go to 5.00.8202.00
I noticed that in build 5.00.8369.00 he states he went to visual studio 2013..now I'm wondering if he did the project in .net v4 or v4.5 and thats why it won't run the latest build

[RRice]

ok getting closer to resolved i think
i can now get it to say "DA:connected" in blue but then it shifts to red and says "DA:Error " .. and then just bounces back and forth between those 2 it also has an error count that just keeps climbing

I'll try and revers the diode back to the way it was on the schematic originally and see if that's the problem

Edit: the schematic you uploaded has the diode in the wrong direction in order for the circuit to work..changing it around will make the circuit functional..or at least it did for me anyway..i'm still using the same SMD caps that were on the PCB originally..maybe changing the caps to whats on the schematic might make it work as shown .i dun know

[RRice]

ok i went ahead and made a log file anyway..toward the end i had to give a little gas to get it into closed loop..if i took my foot off the pedal completely it would goto open loop so i tried my best to hold it at around 1300 or so..

the O2 is what is freaky it's showing the exact same thing in here that it was showing on my DMM only in tunerpro the voltage has been converted

i'm also curious about the coolant temp it's in C..how can i change that to F

[RRice]

second run waited for it to go into closed loop on its own and never touched the gas pedal does everything here look normal..

[RRice]

followup question.. using A217 $0D TP5 v250.adx and Advanced $0D TP5 v250.xdf along with bin file BJYN_95_G-van_5_7TBI_with_3_42_gears.bin
when i look at the History Table for knock Retard in either files i uploaded the knock always stays at 0

so the question is using the files i mentioned should there be a output for knock or do i have to alter it in some way to get it display it?

or does this mean that the knock sensor could be the culprit

[Fast355]

followup question.. using A217 $0D TP5 v250.adx and Advanced $0D TP5 v250.xdf along with bin file BJYN_95_G-van_5_7TBI_with_3_42_gears.bin
when i look at the History Table for knock Retard in either files i uploaded the knock always stays at 0

so the question is using the files i mentioned should there be a output for knock or do i have to alter it in some way to get it display it?

or does this mean that the knock sensor could be the culprit

With a small cam and an otherwise fresh, factory like engine build there is a good chance you will NEVER see knock activity. The factory tuning is so lame you can add 6-10* of ignition timing to it. To allow your idle speed to drop if your IAC is at 0 counts, you need to adjust the minimum throttle screw on the throttle body to close the throttle plates.

[RRice]

i can't adjust the idle , there's a metal plug over the screw..not sure how to get it out either

[buddrow]

You will have to remove the cup plug to access the idle set screw. Its not hard to do. A good screwdriver or chisel(and a hammer) is all you'll need.

[RRice]

i'll give that a shot..but.. i think i either made things worse..or got closer to the actual issue..or created a new issue..in any case here's whats going on..

I wasn't too sure about the knock sensor i installed because it was just one that was sitting in the toolbox..and the one that was installed in the engine to begin with was also in the same drawer..and just as crudy as the other one lol ..so i may have installed the wrong one
anywho..i drained the water and yanked the knock sensor and measured the resistance on it..it was 3.8k ..i measured the other one and it read 99.7k
so i have no clue which if either is any good.

Edit: ok resolved the which sensor is good question ... the one that measured 3.8k is the good one and the other is toast

[RRice]

ok i tried to knock that idle plug out..all i managed to do was put a lot of deep scratch's all over the carb..so screw that..i did notice something tho when i took the carb off..one of the butterfly's is missing a screw..or has a broken screw...it had to have been like that when i took this engine apart..i have a scrap TBI that has those screws in it..but it looks like both might have some type of thread locker in the threads or something..are those made to come out? or are they a perm fixture

[RRice]

ok knock sensor is all straightened out now....no service lights..aldl is working sorta..it's only data logging at around 1.2 Hz ~3.4Hz with what i assume is data packet errors thru the roof..

I need to change the idle AFR from the time the engine is started to the time it goes into closed loop..
Map is staying in the range of about 30 to 50 or so..BLM is rock bottom at 104 and as low as 99..it says Desired AFR is 13.7 or 13.8 i need that to be right at 14.7 or only slightly Rich from that..what table or scaler do i adjust for this?

[Fast355]

ok knock sensor is all straightened out now....no service lights..aldl is working sorta..it's only data logging at around 1.2 Hz ~3.4Hz with what i assume is data packet errors thru the roof..

I need to change the idle AFR from the time the engine is started to the time it goes into closed loop..
Map is staying in the range of about 30 to 50 or so..BLM is rock bottom at 104 and as low as 99..it says Desired AFR is 13.7 or 13.8 i need that to be right at 14.7 or only slightly Rich from that..what table or scaler do i adjust for this?

Open loop vs vac vs rpm is where i would start. Most stock engines are 35 ish at idle.