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Thread: EFI Fuel Pump Upgrade

  1. #31
    Carb and Points!
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    Thanks Greg,

    I found Spectra Premium makes replacement tanks and senders etc. I looked for anything that would fit space I have, then for sender to match. Hard part is, any tank that fit, I found all have the small sender opening, even though I found some for fuel injection. One has a "sump" in the bottom to prevent dry-run in tight turn or steep uphill run. I think I may wind up trying one of them.

    I live in NH, and we don't have pull a part here, they dismantle, and keep what they think will yield the most $, and scrap/recycle the rest -called green yards. Its too bad, because the few yards that have cars out bacl, are being forced to get rid of them. Lots of nice old iron gone for ever.

    I wondered about the high pressure of the sender that matches the tanks I think will fit - min press 72.5, and max 130.5#. Too high for TBI? The tanks were in '94 - '96 Blazers and Jimmys, and I think were well after TBI, so much higher pressure. If pressure isn't a problem, these will work well, because they are 0 - 95 ohms sender curve, and my guages are 0 - 90. Close enough. Can you buy replacement resistance cards for senders?

    By the way, what is dual TBI? I'm old, but guess I missed this.

    Thanks again for your help.

  2. #32
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Greg has two 2 barrel TBI units on a special made adapter.

    Those high pressures will work, what is not used is returned to tank via the return line. In your case I'd run 3/8th return line as well as feed.

    NH would be a horrible place to live with those laws on junk yards!

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  3. #33
    Carb and Points!
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    Thanks EagleMark, sounds like modified twin 4 barrel manifold - better set up than multipoint? Would sure look good.

    Right now NH is a little tough in winter too, and junkyard laws are speeling the end here. I bet northern Idaho is miserable in winter too.

    Thanks again.

  4. #34
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldfoop View Post
    I bet northern Idaho is miserable in winter too.
    Nah! Our Junk Yards are still open and we have plenty of old cars laying around.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  5. #35
    Fuel Injected! User Nameless's Avatar
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    This thread fascinates me. I started my L67 swap based on the many sources of info posted on all related forums. I overlooked the fuel pump aspect because I misread some info stating the OEM pump will work fine for an unmodded L67 setup. I did not see much about the fuel pump in the process of grazing through the best threads on the subject. Now, it is a problem that must be solved. I have a steel tank with a lock ring and pressure sensor on the top of the module. I have a donor module from a 1997 Regal s/c with a venturi type module. Based on this thread here, I should be able to adapt my OEM module to use the venturi swirl bucket and pump. The unknown part is the EVAP canister and pressure sensor. It is a shame the salvage yards in Las Vegas empty the car of all fluids and catalytic converters before they are available for the public to get perts from. This means no good fuel tanks, they all have at least 2 holes punched in the bottom. Trans pan had a hole punched through it straight into the filter too. All the single piece exhaust systems have the cat converters cut out, and not cleanly I must say. Another thing I have noticed is nearly every GM vehicle has the MAF sensor removed too. The employees claim they are not the ones removing the MAF sensor, so someone is either trying the shotgun approach to diagnosing their own car or they are making money on the parts as they are small enough to pocket and walk away without paying.

  6. #36
    Fuel Injected! User Nameless's Avatar
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    DIY 9c1 Fuel Pump module upgrade for 2000 Impala LS with L67 swap

    To my understanding, the Impala 9c1 Police Package has the NA 3800 engine, but the fuel pump and module assembly used in the L67 cars. Thanks for posting your FP mod Greg! Here is my contribution. In theory, this should work for my L67 swap - I suppose I will find out in the next few days.

    UPDATE: My L67 swap project is nearly complete. First start of engine went without any problems. 28 sec. video here:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yf7R4gOU4-c

    The fuel pump mod worked great. The first and only test drive so far was around a residential neighborhood. The transmission shifted into all gears and the engine sounded and felt great! Just before I turned the corner to the house, I goosed the throttle to about 1/3 and the front end of the car lifted and put me back in the seat. That felt great! I pulled the car into the garage, revved the engine 2 times and as the RPM level came to idle, it fell below idle and engine died. I now have a crank but no start situation and the car has not started up since. I am waiting on a fuel pressure gauge for further diagnostics as ignition spark is present. One thing I have not replaced during the swap is the fuel pressure regulator. I have a feeling what happened is when I goosed the throttle, the high-speed fuel pump relay kicked in and blew the hose off the fuel pump or at the other end where it connects to the module. I will edit or update this post when the problem is identified.

    The other thing I wanted to add to this project is about the rubber feet on the module. They are there to prevent the spring pressure from flattening the fuel sock between the module base and the fuel tank. The used module I pulled from the junk yard had only 2 of the 3 feet. That module was from a steel tank which uses the thick rubber O-ring type seal along with the large snap ring lock. The plastic fuel tank I have uses a steel rotating lock ring with a wide rubber seal. The rubber feet at the bottom of the module interlock with the plastic bucket through 2 holes. Unfortunately, the only 2 rubber feet I had were removed... in pieces... Old and dry...

    The solution I used was cutting three pieces of the unneeded rubber O-ring seal from the steel tank design about an inch long. Folding a section in half, squeeze it into the hole for the original rubber foot and allow the return spring tension of that piece to hold itself in place in the oval shaped hole. With the spring pressure from the module itself pushing down on the new feet, I highly doubt they will find a way to work themselves loose from the assembly. I did not take pictures of this. If I need to remove the assembly for repair, I will be sure to take some pics then.
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    Last edited by User Nameless; 06-12-2014 at 02:41 AM.
    L67 swap in progress - 2000 Impala LS

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