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Thread: New tuner in Boise

  1. #1
    Electronic Ignition!
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    New tuner in Boise

    '87 Chevy G20 Van - Campin' machine
    350ci cop car engine
    65pph injectors
    7747 ECU out of a 1990 G20.
    I also have 8746 from the cop car the replacement motor came out of (not installed).

    I am obsessed with getting this thing running as smooth and efficient as possible after ignoring many many drivabillity issues for years after swapping out original engine. (Threw a rod making a u-turn... go figure.) I'm pretty close but my idle still bobbles, or hunts.

    Trying to find best adx, xdf and BIN to get started. Can't find $42-1227747-V2.xdf and $42-1227747-V2.adx that EagleMark speaks of. Need to acquire some better logs. I'm not sure I trust the stuff that WinALDL has provided me. I'm just getting started with TunerProRT.

    Good to see a fellow Idahoan helping so many people.

  2. #2
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    You'll find them but probably differant version numbers here:
    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...Information-42

    5.2.adx and 5.9.3.xdf

    Where you at in Idaho?


    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  3. #3
    Electronic Ignition!
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    Thanks much. I;m bakin' my a$$ off today down here in Boise. We're going for 104°F. Where you at?

  4. #4
    Fuel Injected!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sammy_Johns View Post
    Thanks much. I;m bakin' my a$$ off today down here in Boise. We're going for 104°F. Where you at?
    90*F here close to Fort Worth, Texas, but feels like its 98*F due to lack of wind and 65% humidity, also baking here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sammy_Johns View Post
    '87 Chevy G20 Van - Campin' machine
    350ci cop car engine
    65pph injectors
    7747 ECU out of a 1990 G20.
    I also have 8746 from the cop car the replacement motor came out of (not installed).

    I am obsessed with getting this thing running as smooth and efficient as possible after ignoring many many drivabillity issues for years after swapping out original engine. (Threw a rod making a u-turn... go figure.) I'm pretty close but my idle still bobbles, or hunts.

    Trying to find best adx, xdf and BIN to get started. Can't find $42-1227747-V2.xdf and $42-1227747-V2.adx that EagleMark speaks of. Need to acquire some better logs. I'm not sure I trust the stuff that WinALDL has provided me. I'm just getting started with TunerProRT.

    Good to see a fellow Idahoan helping so many people.
    My roomate has some family in Idaho and was from Idaho herself.

    Was there alot of tire smoke and high RPM involved during this U-turn that threw said rod???

    Sounds like your ECM from the 90 G20 might have a 305 chip in it. Make sure you have a 350 calibration to start with. ARHT, ARJT, or ASDU are some of the better ones. Also make sure your mechanical is up to spec. Check the base timing, fuel pressure for 13-14 psi, and check the minimum idle speed with the IAC closed and unplugged after an IAC reset. Also check the base of the throttle body for vacuum leaks. If you have a 350 chip and the cop car engine is a 350 with the 773' L98 cam it should have no issue running correctly. The Civilian caprices had the 155' peanut roller cam and still should not have issues running on a van chip. You can run a 8746 but need to add the IAT sensor and wiring to the ECM.

  5. #5
    Electronic Ignition!
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    Ha! Nope, kids were yellin' "PIZZA! PIZZA!" so I made a u-turn to get one and BAM!
    Recently swapped in the 7747, it is marked "ASDU". Have been running with the 8746 and whatever came on it for 10 years. Mechanical is pretty tight as far as I can tell. New AC DELCO plugs, wires, cap rotor, compression is even, leak down is reasonable. fixed leaking intake gasket. 13psi. Rebuilt TB, new gasket. Just adjusted TPS to .54v it was at .7+. I had never done that on this vehicle. Probably need to clean my plugs again. They were replaced a year ago. Drivability is better than it has ever been. Running out of ideas on the idle though.

  6. #6
    Fuel Injected!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sammy_Johns View Post
    Ha! Nope, kids were yellin' "PIZZA! PIZZA!" so I made a u-turn to get one and BAM!
    Recently swapped in the 7747, it is marked "ASDU". Have been running with the 8746 and whatever came on it for 10 years. Mechanical is pretty tight as far as I can tell. New AC DELCO plugs, wires, cap rotor, compression is even, leak down is reasonable. fixed leaking intake gasket. 13psi. Rebuilt TB, new gasket. Just adjusted TPS to .54v it was at .7+. I had never done that on this vehicle. Probably need to clean my plugs again. They were replaced a year ago. Drivability is better than it has ever been. Running out of ideas on the idle though.
    Is the idle rough or does it roll up and down?

    Have you performed the IAC reset and minimum idle adjustment. I have always used the GM method that Howell outlines in their manual.

    If you are having problems with decel off-idle stall and idle drop or low rollingidle, refer to Idle Air Adjustment Instructions.
    Idle Air Adjustment Instructions
    Before beginning adjustment, grind the throttle stop screw plug, flat anddrill into theplug to allow a T-20 Torx driver to access the screw.
    1. Jumper A and B terminal of the ALDL connector.
    2. Turn ignition key on, engine off.
    3. Disconnect 4-pin idle air control connector from the TBI unit after waiting 30 seconds with key on, engine off.
    4. Remove jumper from ALDL connector.
    5. Start engine.
    6. While idling, adjust throttle stop screw to increase base idle rpmas desired.
    7. Turn engine off.
    8. Reconnect idle air control connector.
    9. This will complete the adjustment.

    AC Delco copper resistor plugs?

    when was the 02 last changed? Is it a Delco?
    Last edited by Fast355; 07-03-2014 at 01:32 AM.

  7. #7
    Electronic Ignition!
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    Idle “hunts” or rolls between 700 and 750 RPM in PARK and 525 to 575 in DRIVE. It creates a lot of vibration that is transferred through my AC lines into my dash. As RPMs increase vibration smooths out.
    Yes, this week I performed the procedure you outlined. That is how I got it to run as good as it now does. However, it made little difference to the idle. When setting base idle is it truly "as desired"? I set it as low as I could get a smooth idle from. At least as smooth as this thing gets.
    Delco O2 sensor and copper core plugs (CR43TS) installed Nov. last year.
    Spark advance always maxes out and eventually starts back at 0 when idling or driving. Is that correct?

  8. #8
    Fuel Injected!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sammy_Johns View Post
    Idle “hunts” or rolls between 700 and 750 RPM in PARK and 525 to 575 in DRIVE. It creates a lot of vibration that is transferred through my AC lines into my dash. As RPMs increase vibration smooths out.
    Yes, this week I performed the procedure you outlined. That is how I got it to run as good as it now does. However, it made little difference to the idle. When setting base idle is it truly "as desired"? I set it as low as I could get a smooth idle from. At least as smooth as this thing gets.
    Delco O2 sensor and copper core plugs (CR43TS) installed Nov. last year.
    Spark advance always maxes out and eventually starts back at 0 when idling or driving. Is that correct?
    Idle should not be as desired. The commanded Idle speed of a warmed up TBI engine with an automatic is usally 525 rpm. You should set the throttle plates for about 500 rpm to start with and let the IAC add a small amount of air to get it idling where it should. If you have a scan tool for the ECM you can watch the IAC Counts or Steps and shoot for 5-10 steps with a warmed up engine, in park, with the a/c off, and no heavy electrical loads off.

    When you set the timing, the EST Bypass near the back of the engine needs to be disconnected. With the EST disconnected you set your base timing to somewhere between 0 and 6* BTDC. I have found most TBI engines like 4-6* advance over stock to run best. Once you set the timing, you should shut the engine off, plug in the EST Bypass connector and restart the engine. At idle you should see around 16-20* of additional timing over your base or initial timing. When you blip the throttle you should see the quickly retard, then advance with rpm, and spike when the throttle is released and then fall back to the idle value as the rpm decreases.

  9. #9
    Electronic Ignition!
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    Idle adjustment

    I’m preparing for 1st datarun.
    I advanced my timing from 0° to 5° and then jumped terminals A and B to reset the IAC prior to adjusting idle.
    Question: Will the IAC continue to “click” even when it has completely closed, or does it stop clicking after it is completely closed? I assumed the first because it was still clicking after almost a minute when I disconnected the IAC. However, when I did this a couple weeks ago to set timing to 0°, I swear it stopped clicking after a few seconds.
    After disconnecting IAC, I turned off the ignition and then accidentally started the motor with the jumper still installed. Started engine. Idle was racing, I assumed due to timing being advanced and idle adjust screw in previous position. Turned the motor off.
    Noticed I still had the jumper installed, removed the jumper, backed the idle screw out a bit, plugged in my computer and started the engine.
    Adjusted the idle to around 500 RPM, turned off the motor and reconnected the IAC. Restarted the motor.
    My idle is higher with IAC connected but, but after a few minutes I noticed it was not going into closed loop. Doesn’t it have to be in closed loop before ecm starts adjusting IAC? I reseated bypass wire. I did not check for voltage at bypass wire pin at ECM. I believe that is supposed to be 5V after coolant temp reaches lowest temp in IAC- Desired C/L idle table. ?? There’s usually a big green “CLOSED” block on the dashboard, so I’m worried I broke something leaving the jumper installed.
    Question: Could leaving the jumper installed and starting the motor cause a hardware failure?
    I will restart the process again in a couple days. Please see xdl that I attached. It’s idle only. Any feedback would be appreciated.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  10. #10
    Electronic Ignition!
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    Additionally, TP counts out a fault semi regularly. It doesn't show in the xdl that I can see. I had a similar thing going on in my Winaldl logs. Is that typical to see? Maybe that;s what is changing the duty cycle of the injector signal and making my idle hunt?

  11. #11
    Fuel Injected!
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    Don't worry about the jumper and starting. It didn't do anything to hurt your ECM. That is field service mode. If you leave it jumpered and start it, the service engine soon light will flash once per second until the engine warms up and the ecm goes into closed loop. After it goes into closed loop the light will follow the 02 cross counts and stay on for rich and go off for lean. The timing will be advanced to a preset value and the idle will be higher than usual.

    The IAC follows a pre-programmed value until the engine gets to a certain temperature, then the IAC logic kicks in to control the idle speed.

    A TPS can develop a "dead" spot where it is not accurate and that alone will cause all kinds of weird driveability issues.

  12. #12
    I'm right out in Nampa if you need some help.

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