24* Knock retard, no knock counts

**hellomynameis** · 05-22-2014

I'm trying to tune a '93 K2500 with a 350 TBI, 82,000 miles, only modification is a K&N air intake. ECM# 16168625, using a $E6 mask. I'm getting 24 degrees of knock retard with no knock counts. I used to have thousands of knock counts per second, but I plugged the stock backup resistor network pack on to my memory adapter, which made the knock counts go away. I read about doing this in a post and tried it. I have no idea why this works, and would love an explanation, but it solves the problem of having 20,000 knock counts a second. Back to the real problem; the knock retard has not gone away. I have unplugged the knock sensor and changed every table that I think could possibly influence the knock sensor. I still have 24 degrees of knock retard. Does anyone know why this is? It seems to me that the issue has to be somewhere in the code, but I have no idea where it is. I started tuning with the BDJZ bin off of this website and the .ADX and .XDF files from Tunerpro. I have attached my bin, .ADX and .XDF files. My bin is far from perfect, but I have only started to tune it. I have many, many things that I still have to learn. Distributor timing is at 0* per the factory settings. I advanced the timing 10* across the board in the main spark table for both open and closed throttle, so that it will drive somewhat decently down the road.

**delcowizzid** · 05-22-2014

did you mod the bin to change from battery volts being sent out in the datastream to knock retard like it says in the notes at the top of the xdf if not your logging batt volts i presume

**RobertISaar** · 05-22-2014

24 / (45/255) = ~141

if it is battery volts, then ~14.1 volts, which is certainly believable.

**EagleMark** · 05-22-2014

Post the TP data log .xdl file so we can see what's going on.

Do you hear any knock,ping etc...? How's the motor run? Any other truck noise?

One thing to look at is does the knock sensor match the knock module in the Memcal? There are a couple differant ones, manual and auto. I'd go back to all stock knock settings or even a fresh bin to start. Loose the 10* across the board timing for now so we have a benchmark, then a data log would be even better. But any data would be good for now.

Some systems just keep retarding when something is wrong, either in degress or knock counts. Like a short or broken wire, check contiuity from knock sensor to pin at PCM.

Also if you have over tightened the knock sensor at some point in time? It's shot! They squeze shut and always think theres knock. Do you have any other noise? Yes exhaust rattle, motor mount vibrating, etc... I understand no knock counts, but for some reason can still have retard... seen it but don't know why?

**delcowizzid** · 05-23-2014

i just edited my post so it looks like i know engrish better cant beleive what i just read must of been tired LOL.i dont think he has any wiring or sensor issues now hes fixed the constantly revolving knock counts he had with no memcal fitted.i just looked in the bin its set to output batt volts thats why its at 24 the whole time LOL

**hellomynameis** · 05-23-2014

I started with a new bin today and changed the bin to output knock retard instead of battery voltage. The XDF says to change the value at L51FE. I changed it through the scalar, which then causes the change at L51FE. I think that L51FE is a reference in hex. Is this correct? How do I view L51FE?

I have not had a chance to run the truck yet(not my daily driver). I will run it tomorrow. If the 24* that I was getting in the knock retard box was really battery voltage(after going through an equation), does the computer read the 24* and then think that it needs to retard timing by that much? Something is causing this truck to have absolutely no power at all. Advancing the timing is the only way that I could get it to run halfway decent. That is why I advanced the timing 10* everywhere. Thank you all for the help with this.