Drives me nuts to only work on this on Saturdays!
I didn't want to tie up the lift all week, so i downed her in the corner.
I hate breaking down split rims! New tire beads are made to provide an air tight seal and seem to be thicker than the old bias tube type, they take for ever to push off the split ring, I am using a tire machine to break bead.
Goofy bolt pattern with super huge hub make aftermarket replacement rims imposable to find. Custom cut rims this size would be too expensive!
Justin
Last edited by maingear; 05-07-2014 at 11:10 PM.
Still no wheels! The powder coat shop got flooded with orders for mothers day and they are still back logged.
Got the plug out by drilling. In true fashion the plug did not free itself until only the threads were left from drilling. Reinstalled header and shock tower.
Now for this rat's nest!
That's better!
Planning on mounting the ECU under the dash center of the cab so the glove box can be used.
now to do the final connections!
I forgot to label these connectors here's my guess:
Left to right.....
1.A/C Switch?
2. No Idea!
3. A/C switch?
4&5 go together?
Justin
If you're planning on putting the coolant temp sensor for the EFI in the head you wasted your time, the best spot and the only one that really works reliably is in the intake manifold. Even for a temp gauge I do not recommend the head, the temp is usually biased by the fact that the combustion chamber is very near there and gives more of a head temp than a coolant temp.
I'm still not sure what this "cam issue" is that you or your local "guru" speak of. With good tuning it's possible to make even "non-efi friendly" cams work well with EFI. If you're using the stock Vortec cam then it will be a non issue.
I do agree that you should have kept the Vortec heads, the extra work/expense to use them is worth it.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
The 1st connector looks like the knock sensor. Is it a dark blue wire?
The 2nd connector isn't a weatherpack so I doubt it's for anything related to the EFI.
The 3rd connector is for the oil pressure switch. It's a backup to the fuel pump relay so you don't need it but you may want it if you're afraid the relay will fail and leave you stranded.
No idea on the 4th and 5th connectors unless you post the wire colors.
As already posted, the Vortec heads would have been better. You can use a carb intake with an adapter plate. The EFI can be tuned for a different cam.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 05-18-2014 at 07:32 PM.
........
Last edited by billygraves; 06-30-2019 at 06:27 PM.
Originally Posted by maingear
You could run recentered hummer wheels. The centers can be found without much trouble, or even made if you have the equipment.
http://www.trailworthyfab.com/-250-1...l-Special.html
http://www.wi4x4.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2953
Google is your friend. I just searched M715 hummer wheel center and those two links were at the top.
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
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