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Thread: Frankenbody

  1. #16
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    You know some of that epoxy, liquid steel stuff is really incredible. But will never beat a good tig welder. You can tell I'm not a welder because I would not know if these two dis-simalar metals could be welded.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  2. #17
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    i made a plug out of the threads from an old iac valve and a bolt so i can take it out if i ever need to

  3. #18
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    well i have got my frankenbody 69 chevy running.have some tuning to do. my biggest problem at the moment is bringing the idle down. it is at about 1000 rpm but the throttlebody is starting to whistle from the blades being almost closed. the only thing at the moment i think i can do to bring it down is retard the timing. it is at about 15 degrees at 1000 rpm. if anyone has another idea let me know. i will record some data and post it here later or tomarrow.

  4. #19
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    well here is the datastream for my second engine run i will take for a ride tomarrow

  5. #20
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Data log did not post?

    But that whistle is usually all the air going through the IAC, not the throttle blades where it should be. I'll be able to help and tell more with data log.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  6. #21
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    here it is this time. the reason i think its the blades is because TP shows the IAC is closed and it didnt start whistleing until i adjusted the throttle stop. i still need to check my distributor timing hopefully it is far enough advanced to bring idle down and be able to open throttle just a little.take the TPS voltage from .5 to.6 that would be good.
    Quote Originally Posted by EagleMark View Post
    Data log did not post?

    But that whistle is usually all the air going through the IAC, not the throttle blades where it should be. I'll be able to help and tell more with data log.
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  7. #22
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    well i set my initial timing not only was it not advanced it was retarded about 10 degrees. so i tuned the timing down on the computer and turned in the throttle stop a little more and got it to a resonable idle . i put the air filter housing back on and i cant hardly hear the whislte so i guess i can live with that. here is another data recording if you have any more ideas. you will see when i put it in gear the idle drops and the iac opens some to bring idle up so at least in gear it idles write where i want it.

  8. #23
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    What are your IAC steps at idle? You should shoot for between 30 and 40. On the 4 bbl throttle bodies I have tuned sometimes I need to go a bit lower into the 20s to get it to work well.
    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

  9. #24
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    write now it is zero thats my problem here is a data recording to look at. when i put it in gear i get some pretty good counts but in park i only get a 1 or 2 every onces in a while.
    Quote Originally Posted by Six_Shooter View Post
    What are your IAC steps at idle? You should shoot for between 30 and 40. On the 4 bbl throttle bodies I have tuned sometimes I need to go a bit lower into the 20s to get it to work well.
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  10. #25
    Fuel Injected! gregs78cam's Avatar
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    At an idle in neutral my Dual TBI the IAC stays on 0 steps. The throttle blades are letting to much air through even while closed ALL the way. It idles where I want so it's not bad. In gear it has some steps and maintains idle fine. I closed off the other IAC in the same way.

    Yes IAC and O2 sensor have different threads, O2 is 18mm, IAC is 20mm.
    1978 Camaro Type LT, 383, Dual TBI, '7427, 4L80E
    1981 Camaro Z-28 Clone, T-Tops, 350/TH350
    1981 Camaro Berlinetta, V-6, 3spd
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  11. #26
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    my is doing exactly the same thing. what does yours idle at?
    Quote Originally Posted by gregs78cam View Post
    At an idle in neutral my Dual TBI the IAC stays on 0 steps. The throttle blades are letting to much air through even while closed ALL the way. It idles where I want so it's not bad. In gear it has some steps and maintains idle fine. I closed off the other IAC in the same way.

    Yes IAC and O2 sensor have different threads, O2 is 18mm, IAC is 20mm.

  12. #27
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    ill tell you what it cruises just fine and really gets up when you put the pedal down.

  13. #28
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    here is a video of the truck running if you want to see it.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbOH...yer_detailpage

  14. #29
    Fuel Injected! gregs78cam's Avatar
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    cold it idles high but that is in the PCM, hot is right around 750-800. Also one thing I had to do when running an external regulator was to install spacers instead of springs in the factory regulators. Before doing that it would start and soon after one set of injectors would just stop squirting, I can only assume that was because the fuel was taking the path of least resistance which was through the squirting injector pod.

    Did you put new bushings in the TB, if not you may need to if they are not sealing up tight enough and letting air though. I know mine are slightly worn and causing a slight leak, raising the idle.
    1978 Camaro Type LT, 383, Dual TBI, '7427, 4L80E
    1981 Camaro Z-28 Clone, T-Tops, 350/TH350
    1981 Camaro Berlinetta, V-6, 3spd
    1974 Chevy/GMC Truck, '90 TBI 350, '7427, TH350, NP203, 6" lift, 35s

  15. #30
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    i think my problem is on the TB that i switched the linkage to the opposite side at the bottom of the throttle blade opening there is a small cut out that is slightly exposed even tho the blades are closed. if i can find a way to cover them up im sure that will bring it down some. you can see them in the pic of my extra TB i have maybe i can adjust my linkage a little to cover them more
    Quote Originally Posted by gregs78cam View Post
    cold it idles high but that is in the PCM, hot is right around 750-800. Also one thing I had to do when running an external regulator was to install spacers instead of springs in the factory regulators. Before doing that it would start and soon after one set of injectors would just stop squirting, I can only assume that was because the fuel was taking the path of least resistance which was through the squirting injector pod.

    Did you put new bushings in the TB, if not you may need to if they are not sealing up tight enough and letting air though. I know mine are slightly worn and causing a slight leak, raising the idle.
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