95 Chevy 355 TBI Build

[Fast355]

Usually see them pretty worn but never clear into it like that with 150K or less.

My stock 1997 Express pushed a check ball into the separator like that in 35K miles. Probably all the hard shifting the TCC PWM regulator caused due to P1870. First transmission failure was in 2002 at 35K, 2 years out of warranty unfortunately.

[355chev]

Done! Well a couple small things, but overall done. Ran it alittle today set timing, still have to put new bin that Dave made for me on there. But hopefully be driving it around this weekend. Ill get some more pics.

Thanks
Max

[355chev]

Hey guys,

I started it up and it ran but it had prominent intermediate shake/shock like a miss on idle and somewhat cleared up when rpm is increased, but Im pretty sure timing and plugs are right. Was wondering what would cause this symptom? I retarted timing alittle but I still felt it. TunerPro said my spark advance at idle is 20 to 22 and at 1200 to 1300 rpm is 30 to 32. I was told a range from 18 to 30 is ok. Haven't messed with this stuff very much, need input from people who would know. Also if someone could possibly post a link to where I can find out what are good/bad parameters for example under item list on TunerPro the live data that is given is just numbers to me (some I do get) I need to know what those numbers mean. If they are to high or too low, allowable ranges. I apologize if Im not thorough enough with my question. I have my fuel pressure at 20-22 psi to me it seems like almost too much but I could be wrong. Any advice would be awesome.

Thanks
Max

[brian617]

With 20-22psi your around 78.8-82.6pph which should be ballpark for that engine. 20-22 degrees at idle sounds good too, but probably ought to check actual to make sure what your'e seeing is what your'e getting. Next step is a data log to help clean up the VE table, I bet your'e rich on idle with that fuel pressure. Did it warm up and go into closed loop?

[dave w]

Attached is an updated .adx file to try using. The monitors will show Tachometer, IAC, Injectors, BLM, MAP, & TPS.

The monitors screen shot will help fill in the information on how to understand what the information is showing. In a perfect world, BLM's will be 128 in closed loop. The world is not perfect, so BLM's between 123 ~ 133 are acceptable. BLM's below 128 indicate rich and BLM's above 128 indicate lean.

Adjusting fuel pressure higher will make the BLM's rich (below 128).

Adjusting fuel pressure lower will make the BLM's lean (above 128).

Adjust fuel pressure if all the BLM's are above 135, or all the BLM's are below 121.

dave w

[355chev]

Hey guys,

Wanted to share some current data logs. Any opinions or advice would be awesome, try to keep it on a beginners level hah. Still drops rpm and stumbles briefly under deceleration(could also be in part of TPS, getting new one today).WOT/Stab still has cough/stumble not to horrible. Also seems under WOT it gets through 1st then 2nd motor seems to plain out/struggle, hard time taching up. I suppose that could be stall converter a little but still seems like that area could use more tweeking. Dave is doing a excellent job tuning. It is slowly getting better and better.

Thanks
Max

[dave w]

Hey guys,

Wanted to share some current data logs. Any opinions or advice would be awesome, try to keep it on a beginners level hah. Still drops rpm and stumbles briefly under deceleration(could also be in part of TPS, getting new one today).WOT/Stab still has cough/stumble not to horrible. Also seems under WOT it gets through 1st then 2nd motor seems to plain out/struggle, hard time taching up. I suppose that could be stall converter a little but still seems like that area could use more tweeking. Dave is doing a excellent job tuning. It is slowly getting better and better.

Thanks
Max

I've finished the Near Idle analysis with the Idle Flag Active using Microsoft Excel. See attached.

TunerPro RT vs. Excel ... Excel is more accurate.

A faulty TPS will cause the data analysis to be unreliable, maybe even worthless.

dave w

[355chev]

Thanks Dave, I put new TPS in and now Im going to re-do data logs for better accuracy. I will post them soon.

Thanks
Max

[Roadknee]

Max, hows your rebuilt trans working? Did you end up with a stock rebuild with the sonnax performance pack? did you eliminate the pwm tcc? Any other mods? What torque converter? Thanks.

[1project2many]

Also I forgot to mention that I read it would be a good idea to use a "Hot Wire Kit" with fuel pump because the stock wiring cant put enough volts out to get full potential of pump? Is this really necessary for my application?

Over the years I've seen plenty of terminals melted or distorted due to heat from increased, constant current draw. It used to be common at the pass through connector at the sending unit but as GM has worked to decrease the size of their wiring harnesses the problem area has moved around. 2005+ vans lose an entire under hood circuit circuit panel. Delco tech support says the pump only draws a maximum of 9A but I've got plenty of years of testing, and sheets from GM training classes in the '90s, indicating up to 16A in stock applications. The important rule to remember is the higher the pressure, the more current required to maintain that pressure. Does that mean you need the upgraded connectors and harness? No. Plenty of people never worry about the issue and never report a problem. But higher current draw does bring increased potential for failure. I've changed the wiring for the pass through connector to resolve this. In many applications the pump ground is routed through the pass through.

I've connected pump ground to the bottom of the sender inside the tank and on the outside, connected the pump ground to the top of the sender. Now the entire sender is a pass through connector for the ground. That frees up a second terminal inside the pass through to carry pump power so each terminal carries 1/2 of the current.

[355chev]

This is rebuild kit I used:

http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=OPTI&Screen=PROD&Category_ Code=4L60E&Product_Code=ORE-4L60E-RBHP

I did use Sonnax Performance Pack:

http://www.oregonperformancetransmis...NX-HP-4L60E-01

Sonnax Servo's I used:
http://www.oregonperformancetransmis...ode=SNX-77767K

http://www.oregonperformancetransmis...=SNX-77911-03K

The converter is fairly loose, but is still good for DD, does get cam in power band just fine, so far no failures, and was not by any means being easy on it, good converter for the money.
Link:
http://www.revmaxconverters.com/index.php/4l60e.html

I used a 1995 TransGo separator plate, I called dealership and asked about a factor one, they said it was discontinued. I did eliminate PWM.I plugged the PWM hole with the little plug that was in Sonnax kit. In the Sonnax Performance Pack you can choose how big you drill the holes in the separator plate for different levels of shifts, of course being a young dumb kid I drilled them to maximum performance which was .094. The shifts are tolerable for me, they are solid/harsher under throttle/load. I wouldn't recommend drilling that big if you like shifts that are soft. The parts in Sonnax kit and Servos are very high quality trick looking pieces. Very well laid out to in bags labeled for trans. I would recommend reading directions twice over they are confusing in some parts (unless you are a trans guru). IMO to get full potential of the aftermarket parts you need to tune the transmission. Dave changed parameters and it is getting way better.

[Fast355]

This is rebuild kit I used:

http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=OPTI&Screen=PROD&Category_ Code=4L60E&Product_Code=ORE-4L60E-RBHP

I did use Sonnax Performance Pack:

http://www.oregonperformancetransmis...NX-HP-4L60E-01

Sonnax Servo's I used:
http://www.oregonperformancetransmis...ode=SNX-77767K

http://www.oregonperformancetransmis...=SNX-77911-03K

The converter is fairly loose, but is still good for DD, does get cam in power band just fine, so far no failures, and was not by any means being easy on it, good converter for the money.
Link:
http://www.revmaxconverters.com/index.php/4l60e.html

Converter reminds me of the S10 converter. They do get the engine right up on a mild cam and help keep the rpm from falling as badly on the 1-2 shift. I was WOT locking mine at about 55 mph in 2nd gear and at 85 mph in 3rd. Locking the converter at WOT is a balance between RPM loss and additional HP to the tire. Locking too early will bring the RPM down and slow the ET. On my LT4 cammed L31 that point was locking at 3,700 rpm so that it would drop back to 3,500 RPM. The torque peak was 3,600 rpm locking it would eliminate 200 rpm of slip, gain 10 RWHP and bring it back to peak just under peak torque.

[355chev]

Over the years I've seen plenty of terminals melted or distorted due to heat from increased, constant current draw. It used to be common at the pass through connector at the sending unit but as GM has worked to decrease the size of their wiring harnesses the problem area has moved around. 2005+ vans lose an entire under hood circuit circuit panel. Delco tech support says the pump only draws a maximum of 9A but I've got plenty of years of testing, and sheets from GM training classes in the '90s, indicating up to 16A in stock applications. The important rule to remember is the higher the pressure, the more current required to maintain that pressure. Does that mean you need the upgraded connectors and harness? No. Plenty of people never worry about the issue and never report a problem. But higher current draw does bring increased potential for failure. I've changed the wiring for the pass through connector to resolve this. In many applications the pump ground is routed through the pass through.

I've connected pump ground to the bottom of the sender inside the tank and on the outside, connected the pump ground to the top of the sender. Now the entire sender is a pass through connector for the ground. That frees up a second terminal inside the pass through to carry pump power so each terminal carries 1/2 of the current.

Thanks for this information. I will retain this in my brain, so if I have any problems or decide to do this it will help me.

[355chev]

Converter reminds me of the S10 converter. They do get the engine right up on a mild cam and help keep the rpm from falling as badly on the 1-2 shift. I was WOT locking mine at about 55 mph in 2nd gear and at 85 mph in 3rd. Locking the converter at WOT is a balance between RPM loss and additional HP to the tire. Locking too early will bring the RPM down and slow the ET.

Last night when I was driving around (highway cruise) it kept locking on me at low rpms 1000 to 2000 whenever I would roll into throttle. I would have to let completely off throttle, then roll in too throttle fast to get it to tach up and not lock. The scenario you just explained sounds like what was happening to me? Correct me if Im wrong.

[355chev]

Re-did Logs after I installed new TPS. I think those are the correct xdf. and adx. files to few logs on TunerPro RT. Let me know if they are not. There are daily driving, starting, idle, highway cruise, and WOT data logs, all on 87 octane (if that matters). Opinions or advice is welcomed.

Also, I'am a rookie at this. Dave from Old School EFI has helped me tremendously with this. Thanks again Dave!

Max