DFCO and Deceleration Eleanment.

**damanx** · 03-09-2014

Sounds good.

So would that be 2-4 in the specific areas or across the board?

**EagleMark** · 03-09-2014

I'd have to watch the data log again frame by frame and find exact areas.

There's probably some differences in the way the mask works with one of the spark adders or subtractors. But it seemed to hit just above the sweet spot. Have you heard any audible knock or ping?

**EagleMark** · 03-10-2014

I had some time this morning and went over your log and the 3.4L Spark Advance table put into your bin and made the reductions to areas which started to produce knock. Take a look and compare. I know you learn well!

**chevmasta** · 03-10-2014

Hey Mark

You're awesome!

This community is amazing at helping eachother.

**damanx** · 03-10-2014

UGH.....

Been all day setting up a "SteelCase" work bench.

Will burn this bin and run it tonight and tomorrow morning on the way home from work.

Thanks for your help Mark!

**damanx** · 03-10-2014

Warm up.
Drive to work after resetting the ecm. (unplug)
and then drive home this morning.

Will take a look at the bin details after some sleep. Is it me or is that IAC count weird in the drive home log?

**EagleMark** · 03-10-2014

Do you have an Air Pump on that engine? If not it needs to be disabled, it's coming on. Not sure what it would do to data if it is physically not present? Probably nothing... but EGR if left on when physically not present does mess up good data readings.

EDIT: It does mess up data as it goes Open Loop when Air Pump is on!

**EagleMark** · 03-10-2014

Looks like Knock counts are under control!

Had 3 the entire log.

How did it run???

Comparing old data logs to this work.xdl you are running quite a bit more spark advance, TPS% is lower at highway cruise speeds and MAP is higher as well. You know what all that means? More MPG! Sure enough the MPG history table is up as well! The MPG history table just gives an idea, it's not accurate by any means when calculating MPG properly from full tank to full tank. It always helps if you can park at same pump for each fill up just because of vehicle being same level each time.

IAC looks to be working correctly. You did not leave idle data at end of work.xdl log but it appears that they went down, which is good! Means the tune is working now with proper idle spark advance.

One thing that caught my eye when we started with a factory bin/calibration for this engine, even though it is an Auto calibration is the idle is higher then I would suspect? So maybe this engine just likes a higher idle? As long as your torque converter can handle the rasied idle then bring it up some. If it produces a hard to hold brake at stop light and takes off when foot of brake? Then go back to lower. We know for a fact that 4.3L TCC has a higher stall rating then the 5.7L or V8 TCC, so this may be the case with 3.4L as well. Which TCC do you have in the truck?

**damanx** · 03-11-2014

There was an air pump on the 2.8, but all that associated equipment was removed when the 3.4 was put it.

The torque converter is, as far as I know whatever is stock for the 2.8 700r4. I did not want to change out the transmission simply for the bell housing difference, so that is another reason I stuck with the v6 3.4. (pretty much bolt up). I don't know what stock stall rating is.

I think the 700-750 rpm idle is perfect for this engine.

Was the idle rpm changed?

ETA: Where in the log are you seeing an "air pump" effect?

**EagleMark** · 03-11-2014

Originally Posted by EagleMark

How did it run???

Always need this feedback from you as well. It's a good indication to back up data. SHould be a big improvement as different as the spark tables were...

I don't remember changing Idle RPM, but it's not stock ADSU and it's not 3.4L. If your fine with it then leave it alone, I was just surprised at what a stock 3.4L Auto bin file was set to. It is higher then I'm used to seeing in an auto and more like a manual.

The Air pump coming on effects were throughout the log but you can see first one in home.xdl at 1.26. Notice Air switch and Air divert both come on and BLM Learn goes off as well as Closed Loop.

**damanx** · 03-11-2014

It seemed to run pretty well, or at least not as "spongy" as I described the previous BIN.

OH! I can't remember why or how it was changed, but the closed loop idle rpm seemed to hover around 700-750. I seem to forget that the idle goes open loop when the conditions are met.

(for the life of me right now, I can't remember what was changed to make it go open loop idle, but then maybe it's always been there and I just did not notice it.)

I have no idea why the switches are coming on. There is no AIR components on this engine. Just looked and see that the celcius temp is set to -16.

Maybe change it to 151.25 c?

Mark, I seem to usually get in drive without much of a warm up and the knock counts until operating temp and closed loop are reached seem to get up there some times.

Maybe reduce the coolant comp table some?

**EagleMark** · 03-11-2014

Yes raise the Air pump enable temp to Max will keep it off.

I'll look at your other log for warm up... your saying your getting knock during warm up?

**damanx** · 03-11-2014

Yeah, the warm up log had 13, and I think 3-4 of those were from cranking.

I tend to jump in a drive. Most of the time, I don't let the engine warm up to op temp.

**EagleMark** · 03-11-2014

Originally Posted by damanx

I tend to jump in a drive. Most of the time, I don't let the engine warm up to op temp.

When it's warm out I do. But I got a remote start installed on my truck for Christmas from the kid. Nice to have a warmed up truck every winter morning!

**damanx** · 03-11-2014

Nice!

So I dropped a couple degrees in the coolant comp table and then upped the air/cts value.

Will run that BIN tonight and tomorrow morning.

(Wish I could remember if the open loop idle has always been there running and I just did not notice it.)