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Thread: 1972 Elcamino 1993 Camaro Z28 LT1 T56 6 speed

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagleMark View Post
    It's in the $EE info thread.
    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...ull=1#post2958

    I'm not so sure the O2 should be cleaned with brake clean? May contaminate them? At this point I'd have a new set...

    WB in mid pipe? Like a cross over? Hmmm...? Wonder if that get's good flow? I usually use one side or other, sometimes just weld in 2 extra bungs to double check bank to bank when done, but it has never shown any need...

    You have a WB, so could do Open Loop to tune everything? When it's dialed in you could go back to CL and see how the O2 sensors are, if they are good then the trims would be very close.
    Cool I'll check it out

    It was suggested on another thread. The brake cleaner is inert actually a contact cleaner we use in electronics. It's circuit safe and non residue. Don't think it could hurt to try.

    Yes. it's a 2.5 inch balance pipe but thinking the dual bungs might be a better idea I can do as you say and verify each side.

    Yes it's a Zeitronix ZT2 I picked up from a local guy. Planned on using it here and on the Blackbird to do some tuning on both. The Blackbird has a Dynojet PCIII piggy back controller that I can tweak with my laptop a lot like the Tunerpro. Yes I could open loop it all like you mention. Hmmm your thinking it might be better to go that route? Now take inot consideration this is all brand new to me lol.

  2. #32
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    Eagle
    Just checked and I think I see the thread post your talking about its #9 and mentions 2 tools but only shows the speedo calculator. Do you have another link to the other spreadsheet tool?

  3. #33
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    Geez, that was a direct link, look up and down it's right next to the spreadsheet.

    Zetronix WB? Dam why don't you get the best?

    I haven't used a Piggy Back tuner in years, guess there's no reason to with GM ECM/PCMs. But they do work well! I used to use Perfect Power stuff...

    Yes on doing the tuning via WB. My method of choice, but the BLM from fuel trim does a good job, still if you want WOT?PE done right too still need the WB.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagleMark View Post
    Geez, that was a direct link, look up and down it's right next to the spreadsheet.

    Zetronix WB? Dam why don't you get the best?

    I haven't used a Piggy Back tuner in years, guess there's no reason to with GM ECM/PCMs. But they do work well! I used to use Perfect Power stuff...

    Yes on doing the tuning via WB. My method of choice, but the BLM from fuel trim does a good job, still if you want WOT?PE done right too still need the WB.
    Sorry man I am only seeing the speedo spread sheet I have scrolled down and across all 3 pages. I wonder if part of the reason is that it saves as a .php and when I use excel it is loosing something in the conversion hmmm.

    Ahh understood and the reason when I saw it for 200.00 I grabbed it.

  5. #35
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    Weird, it's gone?

    New post at bottom of thread.

    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...ll=1#post35000.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagleMark View Post
    Weird, it's gone?

    New post at bottom of thread.

    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...ll=1#post35000.
    Hah so I wasn't not seeing things LOL. Well also found out that the CCP and EGR are running didn't think about it only active with speed input. Found it today as I was trying to tweak in the computers speed input. It's off by about 5mph. I'll download the spreadsheet and thanks for looking at it for me.

    Off to do some more studying on this program. Again thanks for all your help

    Brian

  7. #37
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    Steveo and Eagle
    Redid my math and didn't realize you guys were dividing and squaring the results. SO went back and reloaded the new injector pulse rate and the idle BLM's have pulled up to 115 and 117 with the INT hovering around mid 120' to 130 idling where they would tank to 108 before. The idle counts dropped down to 13. I Seafoam fogged the snot (maybe quite literally lol) out of it Saturday then did the spirited drive as suggested. I have noticed that the hold rpm when rolling has come up about 300 rpm. It will still pull back down to 800 as requested once the car comes to a complete stop. I think I'll reset the BLM's and see where it settles. I am also researching the SD method figured out how to shut it off so once I get the flanges mounted I'll tap in the zietronix and start tuning. Again thanks for your help and if I may I would like to be able to tap on your knowledge some more.

    V/R
    Brian

  8. #38
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    Ok tank is out going to upgrade to newer style siphon bucket system like in Greg's Camaro. The original system was pump on a stand connected to the fuel line out of the tank. The tank comes from a 87 injected Camino so it's baffled. Problem was that the 72 can corner well enough so that anything less then 1/2 tank will cavitate the pump even with the factory baffling. Need to check the pump anyway as it's not holding prime like it should be. It was working fine when I installed it a couple months back going to check the check valve and see if its got something wrong.

    Then I'll drop the headers and fab in the wideband ports so I can tweak the tune in SD mode using the Zietronix.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by beestoys View Post
    Then I'll drop the headers and fab in the wideband ports so I can tweak the tune in SD mode using the Zietronix.
    I like the Wide Band in the pipe just behind the collector. Get's a better blend of four cylinders. The way some headers are made if you install the O2 sensor in header it get's more of one cylinder...

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagleMark View Post
    I like the Wide Band in the pipe just behind the collector. Get's a better blend of four cylinders. The way some headers are made if you install the O2 sensor in header it get's more of one cylinder...
    Noted eagle I have to take another look. The Elite's I have in there put it at the bottom of the collector merge. Thinking about it you may a very good point I may move the mount points there and then when I am finished shift the 02's to those locations. I have plugs I can instal when I am done. It would only be moving them maybe 6 inches down stream. I don't think that small shift will effect the delay for the calculations do you?

  11. #41
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    OK an update and I'll open another thread as well to help others going down this road again.
    Eagle check my 02's location and found that when I did the instal there wasn't any ports in the header collector on the Elite's. So I built the system with sensors in the down pipe (hey it's been 7+ years since I have needed to touch the system) So I put the wideband port's in the same area. Made up some collector gaskets using Percy's XX Carbon Exhaust Header Gasket Material. The stuff looks like felt with a .006 steel insert with the carbon on both sides of it. It sealed up a small leak I had on the drivers side so far.

    The big discovery came today when I got to thinking what you guys were saying about the system goin SD when the MAF is unplugged. As you might recal this thing has been fat all across the board consistently know matter what cell it's in. It will start out at 128 and go south within a couple seconds in that cell. So I unplugged the MAF and fired it up and watched it transition from open to closed. But this time it didn't crash it went to 138 on both banks with the INT's at 128.

    Now (and this is where I'll start the other thread) your collective thoughts please. MAF needs a recal or you think it's toast It's the original unit that came with the PCM I got as a package. Near as I can tell it's stock, it still has the factory screen on it and no signs of tampering with the bore and probably has about 80,000 miles on it?

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