Log looked great to me.
Sometimes $85 get's a glitch.
O2 sensor should be all over the place with cross counts when CL.
Log looked great to me.
Sometimes $85 get's a glitch.
O2 sensor should be all over the place with cross counts when CL.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Well Mark, that is surely what it was. I put the "Cold start spark added vs Vacuum" table back to stock this morning and I watched closely as I cranked it up. There must be some other spark multiplier at work because right after it fired the timing shot up over 34 degrees (actual) from 22 and it started violently pulling timing then adding it back in. I shut it off and zero'd out that table, had to do the foot to the floor maneuver to clear the flood, it then stabilized and started to idle ok at 22 degrees of timing. Shut it off and started it a third time and it seemed like it was fine. So, in the Cold start spark added vs Vacuum table is what is causing my problem, the higher compression must not need nearly as much additional timing when it's cold out.
After yesterday the truck seems like it's not running quite as good so I'm wondering how many plugs that I blew the tips off of yesterday when I was fighting this thing to get it to run
94 Blazer, Turbo'd 350 TBI - DD
1991 2500 Suburban Adventure truck - 4wd conversion, 4-link F/R, 582ci CNP Big Block with Terminator X EFI backed by a 6L90 and twin stick'd NP205 t-case
2012 Porsche Panamera Turbo - Date night car :)
1979 16' Action Marine/"Johnny Cash" Merc Bridgeport Champ Motor - Metalflake Maniac
After those issues I would replace a set of plugs! Still inspect the old ones to see issues.
I use a magnifying glass to look for issues like specs (flying turds) but usually can see them if bad by eye. If you can do good clear close up of plugs I'll try to read them.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Glanced a few times at the log file yesterday on the drive home and my TPS voltage at idle was moving around from .51 to .60, which is why it was acting a bit strange. Checked the screws this morning and they were snug but not tight, so I clamped them down. If they loosen up again I'll blue loctite them. Also pulled the #1 plug and it looked fine to me, no broken tip, no insulator cracking, and the mix looked maybe a hair rich but not really bad at all. They are pretty cold, NGK UR6ix, so that may be contributing to the way they look. I'll probably end up putting the Delco R43TS plugs back in it this weekend...
Last edited by 1BadAction; 01-29-2014 at 05:03 PM.
94 Blazer, Turbo'd 350 TBI - DD
1991 2500 Suburban Adventure truck - 4wd conversion, 4-link F/R, 582ci CNP Big Block with Terminator X EFI backed by a 6L90 and twin stick'd NP205 t-case
2012 Porsche Panamera Turbo - Date night car :)
1979 16' Action Marine/"Johnny Cash" Merc Bridgeport Champ Motor - Metalflake Maniac
................
Last edited by billygraves; 06-30-2019 at 06:29 PM.
TPS could be just worn out and if you get a voltage glitch, not movement, it will cause all sorts of issues. This can also happen when a throttle blade shaft is worn, sometimes it closes all the way and sometimes sticks a little.
That's a cool tip from billygraves on the plugs! I'm going to see if I can get a set. I do not like any specialty aftermarket snake oil type better then original more power and better fuel milage type plug!!! All I've ever seen from them is issues! If not as soon as you put them in? Soon... I've fixed a lot of weird issues by just putting stock plugs back in.
Stock plugs in copper, Iridium or titamium or whatever? They are all the same and precious metals just last longer. May change heat range but that's it. Stock from OE is always the best.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
......................
Last edited by billygraves; 06-30-2019 at 06:29 PM.
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