That makes sense about the dist. So unplug dist. From harness set motor to 0 on timing mark and plug it back in? Also do you have a link to a bin deleting the knock sensor i would appreciate it. The egr is working properly, i found out the diaphram holds vacuume when squished and plug the hole with a finger. Thanks for all your help eagle mark
Oh yeah and i get a code 12 when key is turned to "on" position and when i start the motor it flashes constantly with no gaps..... any ideas?
Flashing CEL is major failure!
Or is this happening with A and B paperclip? Not really sure what happens if you try to run with A and B crossed? Not supposed to do that, it's a Key On Engine Off trick.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
We did run the motor with the paper clip jumped from a to b. We didnt get any difference with the ecm or motor but i will take it out next time we try. Also did you know of a BIN that removes the knock sensor?
Pretty sure all the 5.7L had knock... why would you want to take out a good sensor?
Do you have VSS? It's also a good thing for Rock Crawlers as it stabilises Idle, ECM likes to know if it's moving or not. Can be turned off though. EGR? Really not needed for the rock crawler.
You are really going to need a custom chip, just the added spark advance is worth the chip for your situation. If you ever find the issue.
Why don't you re-cap, where are we and what is issues right now?
Have you set timing with bypass disconnected? Fuel pressure? These are 2 major things the ECM has no way of knowing are not correct.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Havent re set the timing yet.
No knock sensor because i have to run block huggar headers to get it to fit and the sensor is in the way.
Have a 40lb fuel pump
And vss? Does that hook to the trans? Im running a older th350
Put the knock sensor back in with a 45* brass elbow.
Aftermarket VSS can be added to any speedometer cable. It's not your issue at the moment... no knock sensor without disabling it properly in chip is an issue as it pulls timing, setting timing is also an issue. Having a 40 lb fuel pump means nothing, you need to know what the regulator is setting pressure to.
What kind of 40 lb fuel pump are you using?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
There is no room for even a elbow its like a quarter inch to the header flange2014-01-17 15.30.32.jpg [ATTACH=CONFIG] and as far as the fuel pump its a universal one from oriellys
I think the knock sensor taken off the chip is my only option because i have no other exhaust choices.
Usually an elbow works with block huggers... your's must be really tight?
Universal fuel pump? Like it will work for a carb too? Not good... check fuel pressure!
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Yea they are super tight........
And what should the stock pressure be?
GM says 9-13 PSI. I say if it's not 13 it's never going to be all it could, should be at least 11 to avoid lean issues under load.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Oh yea its getting that it was in mid 20s when it was carbed. To much pressure a issue?
Probably not enough volume. EFI has a return line and is constantly running. We've bumped into this before and have never seen a carb pump keep up at any pressure.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Okay mark going to swap the fuel pump to a inline one up to the throttle bodies standard :) also tryee and i are getting the chip burn 2 to put a bin on eliminating the knock and egr from ecm. Do you know of any bins that are already done with knock and egr disabled? At the tail end of the project and thanks for all your help
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