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Thread: Spacing question

  1. #16
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    Around here, rust is a huge issue. Is there an inexpensive stainless version of square tubing? Nickel plate is probably least expensive and can be done at home. I've been searching for tech on cold process tin plating. Used to be DIY back in the day. I imagine the chemicals involved are a bit toxic.

    Artificial hand? That's neat! Any suggestions for the artificial brains that stop by this place?

  2. #17
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    injector size isnt rocket science really but it does suck when you keep buying them when they run out of puff.i run 24lb in 304 cube and they are getting pushed pretty hard.general rule of thumb cc/min converts to max rwhp roughly

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by delcowizzid View Post
    injector size isnt rocket science really but it does suck when you keep buying them when they run out of puff.i run 24lb in 304 cube and they are getting pushed pretty hard.general rule of thumb cc/min converts to max rwhp roughly
    ok!! so how does it translate as far as torque?? that is where my game is at. I am planning on changing my injectors when I swap cams. I am thinking 30's shooting for at least 450ftlbs, 500 would be cool but I think it will need some laughing gas to get there, and I don't play that game; some day I want to go supercharged

  4. #19
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    On an LT1 the injector pairs are splayed away from each other as they enter the manifold. Not a whole lot but it is noticeable. Does that make any sense?

    like this:

    Plenum
    ./\../\.
    manifold

    Picture034.jpg47703246d1345670253-lt1-l98-converted-manifold-dscn1362.jpg
    1978 Camaro Type LT, 383, Dual TBI, '7427, 4L80E
    1981 Camaro Z-28 Clone, T-Tops, 350/TH350
    1981 Camaro Berlinetta, V-6, 3spd
    1974 Chevy/GMC Truck, '90 TBI 350, '7427, TH350, NP203, 6" lift, 35s

  5. #20
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    you can buy cheap alloy extrusion for fuel rails .ive seen 500mm lengths from as little as $5US online.heres 1 style i can get locally on the other side of the world.its ready to drill for injectors and cut the retainer slots for the injectors. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-...-666704439.htm

  6. #21
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    Good to know some do have rust issues(u answered my ?).

    As far as alternatives i could see galvanized steel being used or even aluminized, prices of each arent bad. Just beware to clean galvanized before welding. Fumes make some folks sick, buttermilk cures it though.

    Stainless is more than adequate But if you attempt a diy build it work hardens as you drill. Being thin, makes it worse.

    You can turn a drill bit orange and make it disappear if you do it wrong! PM me if you go that route.

    If you heat and oil harden any steel you have after fab is done, rust will be diminished greatly.


    Quote Originally Posted by 1project2many View Post
    Around here, rust is a huge issue. Is there an inexpensive stainless version of square tubing? Nickel plate is probably least expensive and can be done at home. I've been searching for tech on cold process tin plating. Used to be DIY back in the day. I imagine the chemicals involved are a bit toxic.

    Artificial hand? That's neat! Any suggestions for the artificial brains that stop by this place?

  7. #22
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    Galvy is not so good with today's ethanol fuel. The zinc is oxidized away fairly quickly leaving bare steel. Aluminized might work... not sure of durability with methanol. I'm sure there's a chart somewhere.

    I drill stainless here without too much trouble. Slow and steady, lots of lubricant.

  8. #23
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    Stainless-what you said, and never stop the drill !
    Quote Originally Posted by 1project2many View Post
    Galvy is not so good with today's ethanol fuel. The zinc is oxidized away fairly quickly leaving bare steel. Aluminized might work... not sure of durability with methanol. I'm sure there's a chart somewhere.

    I drill stainless here without too much trouble. Slow and steady, lots of lubricant.

  9. #24
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    Stainless-what you said, and never stop the drill !
    Yep. I drill spring steel, too. After drilling a small pilot hole, a masonry bit at very slow speed is quite effective.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregs78cam View Post
    On an LT1 the injector pairs are splayed away from each other as they enter the manifold. Not a whole lot but it is noticeable. Does that make any sense?

    like this:

    Plenum
    ./\../\.
    manifold

    Picture034.jpg47703246d1345670253-lt1-l98-converted-manifold-dscn1362.jpg
    I have noticed on the stock CSFI?MPFI intakes on teh Vortec 305/350's that the poppets dump into the intake runners way off center, and they dont fire down at the bottom of the runner like the TPI/LT1/MArine inatkes do. That is the only advantage of the CSFI poppets is the injector targetting. But I'd take a real injector over those poppets any day.

    peace
    Hog

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