what im missing here

[EagleMark]

try that apab bin it ideled good but it is for a standard trans, should idle 600-650 in park or neutral. don't know about in drive?

But it has not been tuned for his cam...

[ony]

I don't know about tunning other than my truck,eagle mark the bin you made for him run good in my stock truck till old 747 started messing up. that may be why I could never get 747 to operate like 288,ill get another 747 an see what happens [I belive you and see the747 should out preform the 288 but it will be a while had to spend my play money on a busted water line now everyone can take a shower]

[rytari]

finaly i managed to get idle running decent for a while... when warm it was about 900 rpm in park but not its back again reving more that 1200 and i even know why, for some reason my motor wont get warm, it will go to cl but coolant temperature wont go up, its so low that dash gauge wont even show anything, if i use my auxilary heater coolant will be something like 150-160 but will go down as soon as i switch off it, i think my thermostat must be open all the time, nothing else should cause this.

[EagleMark]

Until you get it to warm up, the RPM will never be right...

[rytari]

Until you get it to warm up, the RPM will never be right...

i know.. it just my luck that finaly when i got it right something else will come :)

btw. i need to adjust my AE and i think PE also, when accelerating it wont response too quickly and i will see a super lean afr for maybe half a second at first, this is AE issue but i dont know yet how big changes i should do to and could do at once..

some uphills it seems i have lack of power and that i think is PE then, how to adjust just that much that it will help i uphills but wont spill fuel all the times when little adding more pedal on light slopes etc.

[billygraves]

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[delcowizzid]

^^^some good points here.when i was first starting out with my 160baud codebase tune and logging with winaldl i had to change diagnostic forced advance rpm in my tune so i didnt drive everywhere at 10 degrees timing while logging making any logs useless under the factory 2000rpm limit

[ony]

I have never run a 10 k jump to data log with tuner pro on 1227747, the idleing proble will come down after it gets to 180 and a restart after the hot restart choke decay.

[EagleMark]

Good advice from billygraves... except... the 7747 does not need 10k for data logs like other 160 Baud ECMs, it actually messes up good data because of what he mentioned.

Higher RPM in Park (900-1200) depending on temp is just part of the 7747 beast. It does not have full idle control unless it's in Drive. Manual trans, if you look at data log is always in Drive and the P/N wire is not connected.

[billygraves]

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[EagleMark]

No disruption and we appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

Merry Christmas!

[billygraves]

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[rytari]

ok, this car again... been running with it for a while and still it seems low powered, last week i drove my friends completly stock, same aged and 200k+ driven s10 blazer( should be a bit heavier) and in butt dyno it felt more powerful, atleast its not like mine lazy ass cow, accelerates better and for more, it can run 75 mph in od all day long, if its windy or slight uphill mine drops to 3rd and starts yelling, then goes bad to 4th.. and my corverter lock is not in use so i have bit higer rpm allready...

then i looked my logs, when driving hwy, speed 70, 2200-2400 rpm my map goes mostly between 80 to 96 kpa, sometimes almost 100 and low as 75...

with that rpm and map 85-95 i get 15 to 20 degrees advance, sounds decent for that rpm but i have mostly before been driving carbbed cars and in those when cruiising down the hvy vacuum advance used to pull a bit more advace and more advance i think still makes more torq to move the car, but i dont have that vacuum, my engine is not wanting to suck more air in it, i use 10 to 25 % tps in hvy speed and getting none vacuum like id be driving wot...

so i made a test, i tried to make a brake burnout, nope, it wont do it, rpms. will not raise enough to spin the tires, i dont remember the rpm and vacuum that i had but advace was 8 degrees... i have ostrich 2 emulator so i made a test, i tried again to do burnout ( very sophisticated way of testing, i know :) ) but this time when reached the rpm engine managed to take i took and add 20 degrees timing in that place on my SA table and ENTER... tadaa i had a burnout (and some knock :( ) so i think if i had more advance i would have a bit more power in it... but more advance without fuel will knock... and i dont have that vacuum what takes fuel in it..

so is it normal for 4.3 to have so high map values or is just so that i have to find some ways to get more air trought my engine, i have read that stock exhaust should be enought for even 5.7 and i allready have some 2.5" pipe and better muffler behind the cat, air filter is still stock, ben trying to find something better but nothing yet...

[Fast355]

Sounds about normal to me. You have a heavier fullsize truck and are pushing more frontal area. The old square body S10 Blazers where actually exceptionally light. The 2wd 2door is about 3,200 lbs. The 4x4 4 door is only about 3,800 lbs. If the 4.3 is the CPI type it made something like 200 or 210 HP and 260 ft/lbs of torque. Has a roller cam, 208/208 @ .050, .450/.450" lift, 117* LSA and heads that outflow the TPI 350 heads. It was a strong little engine.

[rytari]

i dont think 91 s10 having cpi engine, it should be still tbi like i have and my full size registeration paper says it weigts 3814 lbs so 14 lbs should not be so much of a difference compared to that blazer... and my engine is having cam, intake, ported heads and more compression, i thought that should help little against stock 4wd with many miles behind it. i do know that engine power adding is succesful when you havnt lost more than 20% of hp but i think i lost more :) maybe biggest difference would be gearing, dont really know what i have or what gears are in those blazers and my truck feels like i should need different converter stalll