Yeah it's in the log. You'll see it.
Just got my AEM AFR gauge today. Hopefully will have some
time to install it sometime next week.
atm as i said befor about the inj volt offsets..im not even trying to make corrections atm for voltage loads like lights and fans, i can try to adress them but as others have agreed with these injectors it will just be a trial and error guess.. but should be possible just not as easy as having correct accurate specs...
as for bin B having a rich smell, yep i'm sure it would as 14.7:1 in simplified laymans terms basically means a mixture that is made up of aprox 14.7air to 1part fuel.
14.17 is of course 14.17air to 1 part fuel.. so yes same fuel less air will=richer based on the setup being almost exactly at 128 with the old AFR, hence why i said i would have to adjust that all over again... dont worry it will go back to smelling similer to the way it was when it was set at 14.7.
and yes my hopefull fix for the cold start issue didnt work as i had hoped but we will get it eventually...
ok so that was just glancing at log 2 and 2b i will have to review them closer and decide some changes and get a edited bin up
OK, all makes sense. Thanks.
ok glanced at the warm restart logs now and have comments as well as questions for you..
comments are yes it was figured that there would be issues with bin2B because of the AFR change causeing the richer condition so that one just goes without saying much.
now as for bin2 which you had already tested for the warm restart and seemed pretty good, i am noticing something with it now however... so let me ask you durring the other logs and restart tests did you have the headlights on as well? voltages seem alot higher and better durring those tests/logs then these tonight..
the restart logs from tonight look like sometimes durring some your headlights were on and other times off.. example log bin2 looked to have better voltage and like what past logs and tests had, while bin2b was lower.. now this may be because of the richer mix causeing a lower idle or may be that your headlights were on durring some times and off others.
this all has to be about consistency.. same conditions everytime .
something as seemingly simple and errelavent such as headlights can drop your voltage quite a bit and as we had explained before that the injector offsets vs volts dont seem right and they cant be found aparrently, now the voltage differances im seeing do end up being between two numbers on the inj offset table and of course the number that it was using was working fine but change voltage just a little and it changes the inj pulse rate leading to unpredictable behaviour..
as your probably noticing by now all these tests and logs now and in past have all been just getting everything set to be as best for those injectors as possible rather then getting onto the tune.. i belive we can get them close but its a question of if the effort and time is best spent trying.. i'm kinda betting now that the reason accel says all the numbers around normal ranges for running voltage should all just be set to zero, its because they want it to be the buyer/owners problem to set them up by using other tables to compensate which is just wrong. we all know the injectors cant insta-open.
anyhow i'm just trying to keep you updated on my observations and ask that question about if everything has been exactly the same durring all logs/tests with this new series of bin starting from base.bin to now?
and gratz on the WBO2
wow just noticed i tend to babble something terrible dont i :(
Last edited by xtreamvette69; 08-23-2013 at 07:12 AM.
maybe i should try to use the table for the ford 30#'s not really much bother at this point seeing how i need to fix blm/int again anyhow..
and ZED here is a lil more explanation as to why these numbers are so important at diff voltages..
If I have a value of 1.0 entered for 13 VDC and I am logging a PW with of 1.8ms, at idle, then the actual calculated PW is 1.8 - 1.0 or .8ms. This function effects idle the most as it becomes increasing less of the total calculated PW. now as voltage drops the injector gets slower to open so if useing the same value of 1.0 you will be in reality getting less fuel and as volt increases you would get more. now this is not too bad when it is just voltage going up and down from engine rpm driving but is very bad when idleing and lets say a fan or lights turn on well now it gets less fuel starting a domino effect of the ecm trying to correct the mix it can start a up and down roller coaster sorta speak.
now accel says use 0.00 for almost all the voltage ranges your car is likely to see are you seeing an issue here yet?
i must admit though after looking at the ford 30# injectors that there offsets around the normal voltages arent far from accels 0.00 such as ford says 0.63 from 14VDC up to 19.60 then 0.66 at 13.6, 0.69 at 13.2, 0.72 at 13 etc etc i'm thinking i might just go ahead and try these i guess but ya idk
btw good read ZED HERE especialy the text toward the bottom after the charts
Last edited by xtreamvette69; 08-23-2013 at 07:59 AM.
That money for a WB would have been better spent on injectors! Then sell yours on eBay and have enough for a WB...
Has anyone ever got a cost to have an injector tested for proper voltage offsets? How much?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
ive never had them tested i just make the offsets up on first start up ive never even bothered with injector data.i have 2 sets of seimens deka 60's and both run different offsets out the box.same engine same turbo setup same cam but rich as a dog.maybe i have a china copy set and a real deal set LOL.
Dam! is that all? You gotta be kidding me? RANT< RANT< RANT< RANT ARRRGG!
ZEDRATED! You really need to call them, set this up and pull one for shipping and testing!
Here' another article on that website but I've seen it before. Differant and same subject, you don't have to rad it. Just scroll through and look at pictures!
http://www.injectordynamics.com/WhosGettingDrilled.pdf
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
I don't think I had the headlights on for the warm up on the base bin and proj1 bin but on the warm restart I believe I did. It could have been the fans being off or on before on the restart. Maybe we should stop here and I should just order another set of injectors? And sell mine? Which ones should I go with? What would be a good set with voltage offset values? Or should we continue with these Xtreamvette?
I just contacted an injector shop in my area and he said he can only get flow at stock voltage and doesn't change voltage or cannot get offset specs. He said that he doesn't know of any shop in our area that does that.
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