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Thread: 86 Iroc 350 with 30lb injectors

  1. #76
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Mr xtremevette69, I think I found why the Desired AFR is jumping around during warmup! I'm used to it being steady, even when cold it will start at say 10.0 AFR and just steady rise to Desired of 14.13 or if you haven't fixed it 14.73.

    Look at "Open Loop AFR Ratio % Change vs. Cooolant Temp" LV8 48,64,80? That is where idle is and look at the changes there. That may be on purpose from GM to rich/lean the AFR along with AIR pump to light off the CAT.

    Use the Data Tracing I set up in Spark Advance to watch it.

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  2. #77
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    ok Zed i do see some things i want to change but before i do i would like a full complete log from cold start on.
    so your homework is to do a log coldstart up to just after your fans kick off(full operating temp)only idle and 5mins of just idle after that, then some revs both slow accel revs and fast revs(give moment between these for data to settle) then i want you to drive it if it drives at least ok(drive pretty normal) if you want after this you can get on it some but i wouldnt advise wot as for one it wont preform and for two i'm betting things to go lean in a hurry. ok so i think thats it.. sound like homework you can handle? have fun and ya i'm not evpecting it to be great fun at least not yet but i need a base as to where we need timing and fuel.
    oh and also when done recreat that restart issue you had at walmart that you were having with the other bins (fuel soak) see if you can recreate that with this bin.
    Last edited by xtreamvette69; 08-21-2013 at 08:01 AM.

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagleMark View Post
    Mr xtremevette69, I think I found why the Desired AFR is jumping around during warmup! I'm used to it being steady, even when cold it will start at say 10.0 AFR and just steady rise to Desired of 14.13 or if you haven't fixed it 14.73.

    Look at "Open Loop AFR Ratio % Change vs. Cooolant Temp" LV8 48,64,80? That is where idle is and look at the changes there. That may be on purpose from GM to rich/lean the AFR along with AIR pump to light off the CAT.

    Use the Data Tracing I set up in Spark Advance to watch it.
    ahhh mhmm how did i overlook that mhmm thats the place to fix it fer sure. but for some reason i'm not understanding the big spikes yet, Zeds has them as well.. am i missing something here still?and isnt that the same tracing i can open for anything i want in mons? or am i missing that too?

    ok jus looked up data tracing, think i understand it now . thanks again
    Last edited by xtreamvette69; 08-21-2013 at 08:50 AM.

  4. #79
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    I think the big spikes are just glitches. Many differant masks get some sometimes. I couldn't find other data effected or that could prove it was real... so just a glitch.

    Data tracing has to be set up for each parameter and same in ADX. Only one I did in $6E was Spark, but it's a great tool when you need it. You can see the data in Monitors. But what Data Tracing does is shows a bubble in XDF side table, right in the Spark Advance table. Play log and click the data trace button, open spark advance. POOF! Bubble bounces around where data is.

    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...unerPro-How-To!

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  5. #80
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    got it as i said i had just looked it up lol....thanks
    also i posted a responce to the AIR as being or not being an issue in the other thread (DA Data Errors?) so i'm kinda thinking the AIR isnt the reason for this behavior, must be something else?

    also quick question for ZED.. where is your nbo2 located and it's a 1 wire right?
    Last edited by xtreamvette69; 08-21-2013 at 10:53 AM.

  6. #81
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    The O2 sensor is on the header on the left side before the flange of the y-pipe. Yes, it is a single wire. Will try to get that log done tonigh, if not tomorrow. Thanks.

  7. #82
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    You'd probably benefit from a heated O2 sensor, the readings between the NB and the WB would probably coincide better.
    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZEDRATED View Post
    The O2 sensor is on the header on the left side before the flange of the y-pipe. Yes, it is a single wire. Will try to get that log done tonigh, if not tomorrow. Thanks.
    ok i guess a better way to ask my question might be..how much further downstream is the sensor located from what was the stock location?

    and agreed Six-Shooter, but then again i always prefer heated o2 over the one wire, imo kinda a no brainer especially with the price of them so close to the one wire anyhow.

  9. #84
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    It is pretty much at the same location as stock.

  10. #85
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    Doing the log right now. You will notice that I had to drive down the street before doing the revs. Sorry, didn't want to wake the nieghbours lol. Will post soon.

  11. #86
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    Here is the log, the car started up, idled rough and sometimes dropping to 500 rpm's. Smoothened out the warmer it got and then got smooth in closed loop. Then drove it down the road to a factory to do the rev's. Quick throttle snaps does have hesitations and stutters. Driveability seemed pretty good although may have seemed like a little bit of a lack of power but I did not go WOT. Tried the restart after a few minutes to see if it was doing that same thing like at the Walmart from before and even went to the Walmart parking lot again lol but it was fine. I tried the hot restart a couple times until finally going home and the car for some strange reason seemed smoother and more power under light throttle, weird lol, but did run nice. Not sure if the car is running to lean or rich but the rich smell when coming to a stop light or coming home to park in the garage when warmed up seemed pretty good.

  12. #87
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    The log didn't get posted, here it is:
    Attached Files Attached Files

  13. #88
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    ok so i'm seeing an overwhelming amount of things i want to change but soo many that its hard to even decide what to start with so i guess i will start simple and try to hold back from alot of changes and instead just take the changes baby steps.

    so my first question.. you mention on cold start it idles rough, i think i might see the problem but gotta ask did you happen to notice when it started to smooth and idle pretty good? you say got smoother as it warmed and that really smoothed at CL but any idea when exactly you thought "hmm idleing pretty good now", at what temp? was it possibly just as it turned from 130*-131*?

    also how is the cold start, the actual cranking and start? does it start easy, does it sound like its turning hard?
    also same question except for the operating temp warm/hot starts/restarts?
    Last edited by xtreamvette69; 08-22-2013 at 07:53 AM.

  14. #89
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    Didn't idle good until closed loop when I actually noticed it and said ah now it smoothened out. Didn't realize the temp but as soon as it went into closed loop for sure. Cold start starts up good but wants to almost shut off with low idle (500rpm) and I think goes up and down as you can see in the log and I don't think the IAC was maxed. I think the TPS and idle screw seem to be set up pretty close to perfect. Hot restart is excellent, bang on and fires up perfect and fast and smooth idle, even though it is in an open loop timer. Yes let's just start with little changes, I am fine with taking time with this, I'm in no rush if you aren't. Also can we change the idle from 750 to 825? And again, I am super appreaciative of all your time and effort with this, not to many people would do this for me. Thanks again.

  15. #90
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    lets just start out simple by seeing if this smoothes out that initial part of the cold start.
    run a cold start log, just idle into closed loop then another 3mins or so.
    Attached Files Attached Files

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