Well I would definitely not care about the reving in neutral if we can get the acceleration and take off under load to be smooth at all temps and conditions.Originally Posted by 1project2many
Well I would definitely not care about the reving in neutral if we can get the acceleration and take off under load to be smooth at all temps and conditions.
Could we not set the bin to idle at 825 now? Then do a cold log and an IAC set if needed then another log? Or you would need to set it the way the bin is and then log then set the bin to 825?
i guess we can change it now and maybe you only need adjust once but if any issues we will have to then backtrack but worth a shot i guess. here
Ok sounds good. I will get the log with this bin tonight. I have a good feeling that the IAC will be set up nice with the idle at 825. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Just a cold start into closed loop and a few minutes of CL for the log??? Or should I log right into full operating temp and log the IAC counts? No drive right? as it's pouring rain here and won't be able to take the car out of the garage. I don't want my car to catch a cold or cough hahahaha!
For the age of that car, the salt area you live in and how clean it is? I don't blame you...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
warm it up to operating temp first and set your min idle/ iac and of course tps back to .54 then when done just shut it off and start loggin just before restart, give me a log once you know your into closed loop and full operating temp(probably a couple cycles of the fan) then log 3 more mins of the idle, no drive for now. as i said before i will look at and deal with the cold start l8r when we can get a true cold start.
Last edited by xtreamvette69; 08-27-2013 at 12:19 AM.
Yeah thanks. I bought an 87 when I turned 18 and killed it by driving it in the winter with all the salt but I didn't have no money for a second car. I looked around for 3 years to finally find this car as clean as it is. I originally wanted another T-top but settled for a hard top because of how clean this car was. The front control arms don't even have rust on them, very hard to find a 3rd gen camaro this clean in my area because of only a select group of people interested and most of them are all butchered and killed.
I will log right from the cold start just incase the IAC counts are good and don't need adjustment. U never know lol.
I just spoke to John at FIC, he said that he doesn't have a good set of reman injectors and a new set of Bosch 3's are $404. He also said that this computer should be simple to tune and he wouldn't have correction vs Batt voltage offset for them and said to just go plus or minus 5% and look at the fuel trims but that doesn't make sense to me because it would be hard to test at differnt voltage loads, but let's see where we get. He also said that my 30Accel injectors are a disc type and are to slow for this car, and will be hard to tune??? I thought disc type are faster then pintle style??? He also said to set FP with no vacuum, so key on engine off he said would be fine.
there again is yet another conundrum, i think its mostly preferance and what you have best luck with.
some say disc because of its components lighter weight is quicker some say not. some say disc are more susceptible to clog open yet others say that pintle get a buildup that lessens flow. some say that the tinyer holes in the disc type plug easier. some say this and that about atomization of the diff types etc.. the more you read and ask the more differant opinions you will get i think but one thing i do know is that pintle type have proven themselves over 30years in comparison to the disc types being relitivly newer and there still changing them in what i see as experimenting. sure some of the older oem injectors were disc type like the Lucas but these were much more prone to issues much earlier in there life and so were hated and still shyed away from to this day.... so as for the definitive which is better answer, i'm pretty sure there is no real answer that someone else wouldnt dissagree with. all i know is that i like the pintle type as they seem less problematic but even i have thought about trying out the newer style 4hole bosch III's even though they are a disc type as well.
so in conclusion i can only say that the pintle type have the longest successfull track record out of all the injector types, does that not count for something.
and just a little note of something i have noticed in the flow vids comparing the type III's with the pintle type, although the atamization does appear much better in the 19-24# range of injectors i did watch a flow charicteristics vid of the 30# bosche III's vs pintle and tbh i thought the pintle type looked better, now the question would be why, same flow, same pressure, etc. this is why i base opinion on track record, its kinda like a full race engine, it may preform balls out but is shorter lived then just a warmed over engine(diff of a season vs 100k miles).
tbh i also think cheapness to manufacture plays a big part in alot of new hyped up performance technology as well, moreso then most realise.
Last edited by xtreamvette69; 08-26-2013 at 10:53 PM.
Ok so for now let's just see where we get with these injectors and take it from there. In the other thread I posted a few $6E bins from PCM'SFORLESS.COM and the car ran really nice when warmed up but it ran horrible when it was cold(bogging out when releasing the clutch). If we can get the cold running good and the warm running as good as it was in those $6E bin's I would be very happy with the car.
Last edited by ZEDRATED; 08-27-2013 at 12:16 AM.
OK, something is definitely up here. I did a very long log of me trying to adjust the IAC but when I went for a drive to get it nice and warm I notice the IAC at about 60-90 or so, a lot higher than 30 and the target RPM is 825 but the actual rpm is low like at 500-700 and if the IAC was the problem then it should have been all the way to 160(maxed) trying to get the idle up. If you have a look at the log I tried adjusting it and restarting it then went to zero, moved it back and it went up, I don't know what is going on but I do believe that something is up with the bin and not the IAC.
Last edited by ZEDRATED; 08-27-2013 at 04:09 AM.
And I know that EagleMark said to not go by my nose but man the car really smells like raw fuel on idle even when fully warmed up in closed loop.
have you got a got cat on it?
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