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Thread: How many E fans? Turned AC advice!

  1. #31
    Fuel Injected! CDeeZ's Avatar
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    Ok I know that the main voltage drop in a circuit should happen at the load, but I wasn't sure exactly how much to expect?

    Could it be possible that the clutch itself is just faulty? Slipping for whatever reason?

    I've torn off all the wire loom and traced the ac wires to wherever they go and visually it all looks good. No wires that get hot or anything like that whenever they're connected to the compressor and the clutch is engaged while I'm poking around in there.

  2. #32
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    ~3 amps may be normal.... i don't have a compressor lying around to compare to. the diode in the circuit to prevent the magnetic field breakdown from damaging anything is rated for 3 amps continuous, so it would make sense.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  3. #33
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    I would look for bad grounds ,battery to body, to engine ,engine to frame, body to frame, them ac connector wires would probly melt around 12 amps,weak battery, weak altenator,might have to rasie rpms 100 when ac is on.

  4. #34
    Fuel Injected! CDeeZ's Avatar
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    With Key on, compressor clutch engaged, engine off, the front of the compressor is getting very warm. The longer it stays on, the warmer the front area gets, most especially the clutch/pulley area. Ambient is like ~86*F, the clutch/pulley on the comp is 120*F last I checked..... This is way too warm isn't it?

  5. #35
    Fuel Injected! CDeeZ's Avatar
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    AC compessor pulley is 127*F..... Water pump, power steering pump, and crank pulleys are all ~86*F... The Alt is only ~91*F.

  6. #36
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    that is because it is pulling amps to stay ingaged.

  7. #37
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    some heat is normal.... after all, about 40 watts of heat are being dissipated in the clutch.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  8. #38
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    hy Robert I just remembered I think 40 watts .4 amps.

  9. #39
    Fuel Injected! CDeeZ's Avatar
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    Some heat I would expect, just not as much I guess?

    Every ground I have inspected so far is good to go. ~1yr ago, I replaced the little factory webbed/braided ground straps thingeys that connect the pass. side cylinder head, the firewall, and the frame together. All of those surfaces were taken down to bare metal at the contact points. Those straps are still there and good. The grounds coming directly off the negative post on the battery are also good to go. Battery recently tested, checked out good even tho it's a NeverStart® brand.

    That aIrduster stuff as a cheap refrigerant is just too cool..... I'm thinkin I'm going to have to try it instead of 134a this time, if I can ever figure out what is wrong with this here deal
    Last edited by CDeeZ; 08-12-2013 at 02:03 AM.

  10. #40
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    touch a 40 watt light bulb holder after its been on for a while, as a comparison.

  11. #41
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    by the way, if I spent my money an time to do the ac system whats $30 for r134 that profen to last, a little cheaper that has not been run for 15 years?

  12. #42
    Fuel Injected! CDeeZ's Avatar
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    The air duster is Difluoroethane=R152A, i.e. a refrigerant. Apparently it can't be too bad because a ton of guys out there are using it and reporting success. I've watched half a dozen videos on youtube concerning the subject just since learning about it.

  13. #43
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    for something you do once or maybe twice on a car in it's life, whichever one delivers better performance would be my choice.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDeeZ View Post
    That aIrduster stuff as a cheap refrigerant is just too cool..... I'm thinkin I'm going to have to try it instead of 134a this time, if I can ever figure out what is wrong with this here deal
    Evirosafe also works in R134a and comes in usable cans with a fitting for AC.

    Not sure I'd be doing any changes though since R134a is available at a reasonable price.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
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    3.8 ohm coil resistance on compressor i have here, same type, no issues or problems.

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