Flashing pcm with stock bin

[Nu 2ner]

when tuning out the vats do I need to unplug the module for it or leave it? My security light still comes on, but now flashes.

[EagleMark]

All the VATS bit unchecked does is stop PCM from turning off fuel if VATS fails. The VATS system is still intact. Not sure on the Camaro Z28 but on B body Impala/Caprice if VATS fails it also does not crank over, there is a starter relay.

It takes about 5 minutes for VATS to reset if the key is wrong or the contacts in key switch are bad. There is a way to measure resistance of key and bypass key switch by installing resisters in wiring eliminating the resistance needed from key, which must match VATS module.

[Nu 2ner]

Went back to original tune from my pcm, car cranked right up, ran for 10 minutes, then died like I turned the key off? This was my original issue as to why I decided to get a different pcm. It will not crank back up until the next day even after removing the battery for 3-4 hours to charge it. I am not getting fire to my plugs. Did the opti test for the 100th time, same issue, no signal on white wire from pcm;doing the led test and the ac voltage test ( 1-4 v AC). I have ran through every test possible that I can. I have replaced the coil, wires and plugs twice, egr valve, fuel pump and filter, and opti. Yes I got and opti from Vatozone, a Cardone reman, but they are tested before you purchase them. I know new parts can be bad, but I have a hard time believing that unless I actually have proof, but I cannot afford a scope to see the actual signal coming from the opti. Don't know what else to do at this point, at a loss of time, money and patience.

[EagleMark]

Have you tested the ICM? That is exactly what happens when they get hot... do not buy anything but AC/Delco ICM...

[Nu 2ner]

Have you tested the ICM? That is exactly what happens when they get hot...

I have run all the tests for the opti which doesn't really test the direct opti., only tests the signal from the opti. through the pcm., how is this actually testing the opti.? It doesn't really test the ICM either. Either way I'm not getting the 1-4 volts AC from the white wire going to the ICM. Which is the signal coming from the opti. through the pcm, correct? I also did the LED light test that I found on here to test the same wire on the ICM plug with it actually plugged in. Light was supposed to flash the whole time during cranking, it didn't.