Wifes car,almost completed L67 build/swap -56k run away.

[Playtoy_18]

http://www.3800pro.com/forum/fwd-380...ce-04-l36.html

I had a long post with all the mods etc. written out but i'll have to update later,when I change tabs on ipad it wipes out the post I wrote on other tab-arrggh
It was a long ordeal that had me swapping engines/transmissions in/out but finally almost done.
Basically built an L67 and learned ceramic coating,powder coatings as well as alot of build/maching stuff from a buddy.

Most everything is stock (not necessarily from L67 though) but altered/lightened or ceramic/thermal coated.

Stainless headers and modded SC haven't made it onto car yet-using stock SC (no mods) and manifolds (egr welded).
Cam is stock as well,IF I upgrade later plans were only for some rockers so I didn't take it too far (that ship has sailed and sunk already though)

Here's some pics,the thread above is a long one but if your interested than I used it as a reminder of where I was at going back and forth.
I'll update when I get a chance,wanted to get it posted up though in case I need some help I won't need to do a long explanation.




Original L36 3800NA (head gasket blew)


First L67 3800sc



Trans rebuild-100 miles later



Making stuff pretty and functional




Gettin started



All hand polished,ceramic/thermal or powdercoated (not all parts this engine)



Almost complete

[Playtoy_18]

I wasn't clear so..
Right now the gold engine is in the car minus the supercharger.
Only have a few miles on it,need to get a tag and hopefully have time today.
No pics of the other stock L67 I put in (three total,2 blew rods).
Gold engine also has NA/L36 pistons/rods so compression is now 9.4:1 with chamber mods I did.

[Playtoy_18]

Well so far it has been going great.
Ended up yanking the intake to do some lifter work,might need to yank a valve cover to check a rocker as well again.
Otherwise it's running great.

Only issues i've had with tuning so far is the gear ratio.
These have zero logic to them that I can find,I finally just resorted to trial and error. I'm at 1.02 in 3rd gear now,just need to make another quick change and should have it.

Been logging for VE,started to do the changes manually since I can't get a spreadsheet to work yet.
The MAF will need a bit of tuning as well,the TB has been smoothed,polished and thermal coated and I altered the cross-section where the MAF resides so the calibration is no longer true.

I also need to make a wall to block the hot engine heat from the intake so it pulls from the fender.
My intake temps are pretty high (140+) so that is on the top of list.

[RobertISaar]

is that 140 before or after the blower? i do't remember where the temp sensor is on a L67.

[Playtoy_18]

Before...
It is in the rubber elbow a few inches from the TB.

[Playtoy_18]

Latest Log (SD/MAF unplugged)

Only seeing a couple degree of knock retard here and there,nothing horrible.
The 140 is driving me crazy,especially since I could drop it even more if she would let me vent/louver the hood.
The thermal coatings raise the efficiency of transfer,so air movement over it would help alot.
I suspect the intake air is actually cooler than the reading,I really want to relocate the temp sensor.

[RobertISaar]

woof. getting into boost, the intake temps would be beyond hot enough to boil water. at least your fuel will be quite vaporized.

[pmkls1]

I can't see the true intake temps being 140 degrees. I'd try relocating the IAT sensor farther away from the engine too. I read a little into the build and was pretty interested, but never got time to read all of it. If you are only getting a little KR on that car then you're doing good and that is another indicator that the true intake temps are lower than 140. I'm in a hurry at the moment so I don't know if I could be of any help with the excel spreadsheets or not but I did have a few questions for you though. The ceramic coatings you used, were they cerakote brand and how easy do they spray ? I looked into the cerakote coatings and they seemed awful easy to apply. I was also curious as to why or how you blew up a couple engines too ? They are normally pretty tough unless you get coolant contamination in the oil.

[Playtoy_18]

The ceramic coatings you used, were they cerakote brand and how easy do they spray ?

I used Techline coatings,I've seen some of the Cera-Kote stuff but it's only for gun stuff that i've seen it used.
The coatings weren't hard to spray,Moly and thermal stuff laid down nicely-The ceramic based was finicky but not bad-The piston/CC stuff I screwed up at least once on everything I sprayed. It was the worst,but could also have easily been me since I don't do much spraying at all.

I was also curious as to why or how you blew up a couple engines too ? They are normally pretty tough unless you get coolant contamination in the oil.

The original engine just blew a head gasket,noticed during annual coolant flush.

The 1st L67 I dropped in spun a rod bearing,I have several theories why but i'm chalking it up to the salvage yard telling me 58k and after going thru it thinking more like 158k.

The 2nd L67 I haven't a clue,I've yet to tear it down to verify exactly what went wrong where,but i'm positive i've spun a bearing. This engine had 34k miles and I believe it from how clean everything was.

On every engine I drop in it gets new fluids for first start and after a few minutes of run time it gets changed and flushed out again. (Cooling system gets straight water)
Then I will generally drive for a few hours and change the filter yet again and reflush cooling system and refill with coolant.

[pmkls1]

I used Techline coatings,I've seen some of the Cera-Kote stuff but it's only for gun stuff that i've seen it used.
The coatings weren't hard to spray,Moly and thermal stuff laid down nicely-The ceramic based was finicky but not bad-The piston/CC stuff I screwed up at least once on everything I sprayed. It was the worst,but could also have easily been me since I don't do much spraying at all.

Cerakote actually does make a separate line of coatings geared towards the auto industry and they have a separate website for it. The site for the thermal/ceramic coatings is http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/ . They have moly and also multiple different ceramic/thermal coatings similar to the techline stuff you used. The only major drawback to the cerakote stuff that I know of is the serious pricetag it carries. I haven't looked into the techline stuff yet, but I will as I was curious about using some coatings on a couple projects.

[Playtoy_18]

Pulled the car into shop the other night to do something about the intake temps.
Got one of my templates cut out/fitted,just need to finish the top/lid and tack the mounts to it,attach pcm tray and extend the IAT wiring.
Gonna try to finish it up tonight,looking for the right size elbows since i'm using 4".
Would like to get rid of the stock rubber i'm using altogether.

[Six_Shooter]

140 degree intake temps are not surprising.

Before I put the intercooler on my car, at times I would see 180* intake temps, at higher boost levels.

Moving the IAT away from the intake only pleases the person watching the laptop screen, but does not to help the car run properly. I'm a fan of IAT sensors as close to the intake valve as possible to get true intake air temp readings.

[EagleMark]

and... you can get 180 IAT at idle if you sit long enough...

[pmkls1]

140 degree intake temps are not surprising.

Before I put the intercooler on my car, at times I would see 180* intake temps, at higher boost levels.

Moving the IAT away from the intake only pleases the person watching the laptop screen, but does not to help the car run properly. I'm a fan of IAT sensors as close to the intake valve as possible to get true intake air temp readings.

His IAT readings are taken BEFORE the supercharger not after. In this particular car, heat from the exhaust crossover pipe can radiate up into the rubber elbow that houses the IAT sensor causing the sensor to heat up and read high. However, even though the elbow and sensor are hot, it doesn't mean that the air flowing through is as hot.

[Six_Shooter]

If it's an open element IAT, then yes the air IS that hot.

The open element sensors respond VERY quickly to air temp changes. I've witnessed on my car changing almost instantly from a warm temp (closed throttle cruise) to near ambient within a second of opening the throttle, on a cool night when the intercooler is quite effective. Less of a change, but still as quick on hot days.