first time start up!

[sgtpoliteness]

Ok!! Running MUCH better. It idles great, especially in closed loop. How do I check/clear codes again? It's popping back thru the t-body around 1500 while trying to accelerate. Once you're up to speed, it's much better.

FYI, I haven't adjusted down my initial advance in my BIN to 0, it's still @ 12*. That's in 4133 on a 16197427.

[FSJ Guy]

I have always set my base timing to 10 or 12 degrees because the AMC motor idles better there. I had trouble keeping it idling at zero.

[Six_Shooter]

Really? I have never seen this mentioned before....

Yep.

The base timing set in the bin is subtracted from the final output.

[EagleMark]

Ok!! Running MUCH better. It idles great, especially in closed loop. How do I check/clear codes again? It's popping back thru the t-body around 1500 while trying to accelerate. Once you're up to speed, it's much better.

FYI, I haven't adjusted down my initial advance in my BIN to 0, it's still @ 12*. That's in 4133 on a 16197427.

If you have my $0D ADX all you do is click Send next to the Clear Codes Macro. Right click on tool bar and choose them all, see if you have the commands.

If not disconnect power to PCM to clear codes.

If your distributor is 0 and bin is 12, then your minus 12 degrees from a stock Chevy spark advance table. If both are 12 well then your just at a stock advance table.

Popping back is normally a sign of not enough AE (Acceleration Enrichment) Carb pump shot. Increase AE TPS and AE MAP both by 50% and recheck.

But from the looks of your log your running out of fuel! High load, 1200 to 1600 RPM 70-80 MAP your hitting 156 BLM, then it goes PE and locks at 128 so you can't tell how bad it's getting.. Have to check fuel pressure and flow...

At idle your fuel pump voltage is dropping to 13.2, acceptable and normal in old vehicle conversions because of altenator. But idle is also low, like 525 so increasing idle by 100 RPM will help idle as well as opening throttle blades a little to reduce IAC count. Turn screw in 1/4 turn to lower IAC counts. RPM has to be done in bin.

[EagleMark]

I have always set my base timing to 10 or 12 degrees because the AMC motor idles better there. I had trouble keeping it idling at zero.

Yes they like more timing and a little more RPM. But just adding 10-12 by cheating at distributor base timing is to much for idle and just enough for everything else... except if you put the 10-12 in bin you get nothing? Except a 10-12 degree advance of injector firing, which is by DRP. Unless you have some wild cam or cam advance done I've have never found a need? Some duraspark conversion distributors can be helped by running some base and distributor advance because the cap and rotor is not designed to handle high advance from a ECM controlled spark. There's only 45 degrees between terminals, so after 22 degrees you do have a chance of firing wrong cylinder! The Chevy Small Cap distributor cap and rotor have a special design to avoid misfiring wrong cylinder along with their phasing.

Now if you add 10 to 12 at distributor and don't add to bin? Well to much for idle and way over what distributor cap terminals spacing are capable of, so on hard deceleration your firing wrong cylinder.

Set base timing to 0, set distributor to 0, add timing to Spark Advance tables, stock distributor cap and rotor from a non chevy conversion add 5, then work spark advance table.

[shimniok]

I have always set my base timing to 10 or 12 degrees because the AMC motor idles better there. I had trouble keeping it idling at zero.

Same here. I've never been able to get one of these AMC motors to run without a little base timing. You could set distributor to 0 and add in timing in the SA table, but it wouldn't idle with the spark control disabled.

[EagleMark]

What's idle RPM on them stock?

[shimniok]

Looks like 450-500 (neutral) base idle which I assume is without vac advance but with base timing of 10* and 600 curb idle (drive) which is with everything hooked up. The 600/10* was common across more than a few years.

[FSJ Guy]

600 rpm curb idle???? That's funny!!! I've usually set mine at 800 rpm or so.

[EagleMark]

Hmmm? Looks like it should idle low enough to set timing? Your the Jeep guys so I'll take your word on it. I've tuned a couple 360 and don't remember an issue setting timing but none were stock and had idle raised at least 150 RPM from stock bin.

Even an old stock SBC that came with TBI has a hard time idling with bypass disconnected, surely won't do it cold, the idle just get's so low without any spark advance, 400s RPM IIRC. Stick a feeler gauge in throttle stop to raise idle so you can set it. It will not effect timing with bypass wire disconnected... until like... 2000 RPM the EST/ICM adds some timing?

Also don't confuse Base timing that Jeep states with Base timing from GM TBI system! Two different animals, Jeep is actually running 10 when setting base as there is no bypass, GM is 0 when setting it but when you connect bypass it's 16 so you've got all Jeep states and then some depending on what vacuum advance does at idle through ported vacuum...

Then when looking at spark advance table! If it's a SBC bin take off 10 degrees from entire table as Warm Spark Bias is 9.84, if it's a BBC bin take off none as Warm Spark Bias is 0, it's actual. Next $42 XDF I have link from spark table to subtract whatever is in Warm Spark Bias, so what you look at is actual no matter what bin or Warm Spark Bias.

[shimniok]

I'll post up when I attempt to reduce static timing and see if I can get it to run at 0*BTDC

[sgtpoliteness]

I can't seem locate the RPM in my bin. Is it a scalar or table?

[EagleMark]

RPM is in data ADX file.

I think your looking for "IAC - Desired C/L Idle Speed" ? That is where you set idle RPM, it is in Idle Air Control IAC folder.

[babywag]

I'll post up when I attempt to reduce static timing and see if I can get it to run at 0*BTDC

You can get 'em to idle and run 0* I've been running my '88 @ 0* for quite a while.
Idle quality @ 550 is a little rough though.
Howell uses 750 for a reason I'm sure?

If you ever have a problem and it hits limp home mode it will truly define limp home mode.
You'll get a default of 20* advance IIRC dumped ~2000rpm?
So, if you're timed @ initial of 0*, and all you get is 20* it will limp.

Now if you set initial to 10*, and adjust the bin and tables accordingly limp home mode should be much better.

I'd also venture a guess the cam grind/timing chain aren't ideal for running 0* initial.
So with what I know now, vs. a few years ago when I set it up I'd opt for 10*-13* initial.
That's where the sweet spot was with the carb.

[EagleMark]

I try and avoid LHM but That brings up another issue! IIRC timing in LHM is locked at 20 like you said, If base is set to 10 and you do enter LHM, timing will be 30...

The bigger the cam the more idle spark it needs along with some more RPM. Even a stock cam in these older engines idles much better at 700-750 RPM.