hello
I have a 1228746 ecm with ANTT chip and disable the vats system with tunerpro and yet the light is on the car will not start anyone ever had a situation like that can help me?
link to the bins http://dfiles.eu/files/avb19byhp
hello
I have a 1228746 ecm with ANTT chip and disable the vats system with tunerpro and yet the light is on the car will not start anyone ever had a situation like that can help me?
link to the bins http://dfiles.eu/files/avb19byhp
ANTT was superseded to AXKT.
Not sure what's in a F body, but the way VATS was set up in B body later year was if VATS did not pass it cut fuel pulse and also cut power to starter relay, so car would not crank either.
Does your car crank? Can you check for any fuel during crank?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Originally Posted by EagleMark
the car not cranking and no fuel during crank and the light vats is on
your vehicle may have one of them resistor pods behind the ignition key tumbler the wire are bad about breaking.
Below is an explanation of the vats system and my recommendations based on my experience as a technician and the fact that you are a DIY'er. When I worked at Cadillac, I had these failures pegged all the way down to an average of every 60k miles. That estimate was surprisingly accurate for the average vehicle, although as with any average there are plenty of exceptions. The entire time that I was a technician, I only had to replace ONE vats module and had no other component failures in vehicles that were in running condition at the time of failure. This obviously excludes vehicles that have had the wiring tampered with and vehicles that had aftermarket alarms and such installed. In my description below, I describe the harness coming out of the ignition lock cylinder as having a small black connector at the other end. Please note that although I believe that this is the configuration for your car, the harness MAY go to the main ignition harness bulkhead instead. GM used both designs for this generation vats system and it is hard to remember which vehicle had which design. Everything else in these systems was identical and you can't miss the bright orange harness. The only difference when servicing these two systems is that if the wires go to the ignition harness bulkhead then you must disconnect the bulkhead, separate the gray connector from the center connector, remove the terminal retaining clip, back the two white wires out using a terminal release tool, and then install the new wires and reassemble. The two white wires are the same and do not have any specific location.
You say that the car is not cranking and has no fuel during crank. Does that mean that you're getting it to crank by jumping the starter ? With a no crank, no fuel, vats light scenario that means that you have a vats fault. The vats system on vehicles such as yours use a key with a pellet that has a specific resistance value, an ignition lock cylinder with contacts that the pellet slides into and 2 very small wires that run down the inside of the steering column that go to a vats module under the dash. When you insert the key, the pellet completes a circuit allowing the vats module to measure the resistance of the pellet. If the resistance matches the value programmed into the vats module then the car cranks and starts etc. The vats module is what actually interrupts power to the starter solenoid as well as sending a fuel enable signal to the ecm. If you simply disable the vats function in the ecm the rest of the vats system remains functional because it is a stand-alone system. These vats systems used different resistance values in the pellets of the keys to prevent theft just like tumblers in a lock cylinder. There were 15 specific values that corresponded with a "key code" of 1-15. The absolute most common failure 98% of the time with these style vats systems was the wires that come out of the lock cylinder would break inside the column housing due to repeated flexing from key cycling. This left an open circuit and so the vats module could not "read" the key. The easiest way for you to test this requires you to buy the parts to fix the car, but they are inexpensive and probably need replacement even in the remote instance that they are not the cause of failure. I recommend going to a dealer for convenience because you will get the proper parts and will need to get keys cut anyways. The pricing on these parts at the dealer is pretty close to aftermarket parts also. Take your old key and have it checked to get the proper "code" go ahead and buy a new lock cylinder and have a new key with the proper code cut for it. Then, remove the hush panel under the dash, locate the small orange harness at the base of the column with 2 very small white wires coming out of it and there will be a small black connector at the end. Disconnect the connectors and plug in the wires coming from the new lock cylinder. Insert the new key into the new lock cylinder and then insert your old key into the old lock cylinder and try to crank the car. If the car cranks and starts then you have the solution and the new parts to fix it. If you do go this route and decide to replace the lock cylinder yourself be very careful when installing the new lock cylinder and pulling the wires down through the column as they are very fragile and you can ruin them as it is a bit challenging to pull them down through. I normally make sure the column is straight if it is a tilt column then after pulling out the old lock cylinder snip any remaining wire, then tie the 2 old wires around the connector of the new lock cylinder and use them to carefully pull the new connector down through the column. If you hit a snag, which you will, gently pull up on the new wires and alternate pulling them up and down (imagine flossing your teeth) and you will eventually get past the snag. Everything else is pretty straight forward and fairly easy, but most people are intimidated by the thought of pulling the wires through the column or they get too rough and break the wires on the new lock cylinder and give up on the repair.
Good luck,
Phil
Last edited by pmkls1; 04-19-2013 at 06:39 PM.
1999 GMC Sierra 1500 standard cab long bed 4.8 V8 2WD - A work in progress.
2000 Grand Prix GT sedan 3800 - My new daily driver inherited from the wife via the insurance company totaling it out after a minor collision.
2006 Grand Prix GT sedan 3800 Supercharged - The wife's new grocery getter.
if you have had a new key cut lately try your old key.
Measure the Resistance in key pellet in ohms, buy a resistor or resistors to match key. Put them in series, not parrallel in wires before key switch. This eliminates the key switch and always provides correct resistance to VATS module.
Removing VATS from ECM only allows fuel, VATS module is still disabling starter.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
I worked on I think it was a 1993 buick the vats broke the ground to the fuel pump, I disconnected it, the ground from the wiring hornis and grounded it to the frame jumped the started it started after that it would start off the key but would die 3 times then go ahead running the vats light was still on. needless to say the trans was bad. ask the lady where she bought the car, she told me an it was a local scrap yard, sold as
All of the vats systems that used a pellet key operated in basically the same manner and were excellent anti-theft systems hence the lifespan starting in the mid-'80's all the way through 2001 or 2002. The vats module interrupted power to the starter and sent a fuel enable signal to the ecm and at least some also interrupted the fuel pump relay. As I said in my earlier post I have only seen one vats module go bad in well over a decade of being a tech so in my opinion it is a pretty good system. Once you are aware of the fact that the lock cylinder requires occasional replacement you find that it is pretty reliable. That is why I prefer to keep the vats system functional in factory-equipped vehicles. Obviously people that have transplanted an ecm into a vehicle without vats need to disable it in the .bin in order for the car to run, but other than that I don't disable it.
1999 GMC Sierra 1500 standard cab long bed 4.8 V8 2WD - A work in progress.
2000 Grand Prix GT sedan 3800 - My new daily driver inherited from the wife via the insurance company totaling it out after a minor collision.
2006 Grand Prix GT sedan 3800 Supercharged - The wife's new grocery getter.
deleted
hello
Thank you all for trying help
I already gave power to the starter solenoid to crank it but still do not have gas in the injectors I do not understand why if I already disable the vats system with tunerpro, there will be some other way to disable the vats in the chip?
I wanted to remove the vats car collection is for it is not to walk in the street.
Portugal will in no parts to fix the car ever been in 3 mechanics and they have not solved the problem.
You have to read your chip to bin file, open bin file in TunerPro, uncheck VATS, save bin file and burn new chip to install in car...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
I already did that and it does not have gas in the injectors so wanted to know if there will be some other way to disable the vats in the chip?
I'm wondering if he's not programming a new chip.
I have talked to a few people over the years that didn't understand that a new chip had to be programmed for the changes in Tuner Pro to actually take effect. Easy new to tuning mistake.
Also the resistor bypass that is used for the VATS module is technically a parallel and series connection, electrically speaking. Since it is the only component connected to that pair of nodes, it is in series with the path of current, but parallel with the rest of the circuit.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
did some one steal that car
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