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Thread: Geartrain noise in 4L60E second gear causing "knock" retard

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by sherlock9c1 View Post
    I don't suppose you ever get to 4400rpm in 4th... 2nd and 4th gear in the 4L60Es run the rear planetary gearset, and it's possible that this particular trans may have some needle bearings starting to wear. How many miles on it? Also, does it make any gear noise in reverse?

    Never have heard any noise in reverse. This trans is the original from 97 and has 80,005 miles as of this morning. Transmission has been JUNK since 38,000 miles. Just keeping it until I find the time to track down a 4L80E, rebuild it and swap it in.

    Considering 3,100 rpm in 4th is 101 mph, 4,400 rpm is not going to happen with the current gearing and tire size.
    Last edited by Fast355; 04-15-2013 at 07:30 AM.

  2. #2
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    On a side note, I was driving home tonight with the windows down on the service road, next to an elevated highways retaining wall and ran it WOT from 0 through 75 mph. The whine I am hearing may even be accessory whine as its there in 1st gear too.

    Ramjet timing tables woke this pig up. Also noticed a strong correlation between the 0411 MBT map and the Ramjet maps. On 93 octane a vortec 350 should have no issue at 30-31° of timing.

  3. #3
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    Do you have an underdrive pulley laying around that you could install to see if that changes the sound and the knock? Are the belt and tensioner in good shape (maybe it is slipping)?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sherlock9c1 View Post
    Do you have an underdrive pulley laying around that you could install to see if that changes the sound and the knock? Are the belt and tensioner in good shape (maybe it is slipping)?
    Tensioner was replaced 23k miles ago with the engine and it has an underdrive pulley already installed. Belt was replaced with the underdrive pulley when the cam went in, about 1,000 miles ago. The clutch fan has already hit the spare parts shelf as well.

    I wonder if it could be that Duracrap alternator that I had no choice but to install in middle of nowhere USA when the original started discharging at idle.
    Last edited by Fast355; 04-15-2013 at 10:38 AM.

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    So I found something interesting looking at the knock sensor calibration.....Specifically Burst Knock. I am going to do some datalogging with it limited to 1° and see what I see. I notice many guys just disable it on the LS engine and my TBI/TPI/CPI always had it disabled

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    I am CERTAIN the knock sensor is lying to me though. At 3,500 rpm in 1st gear, heavy throttle PE @ 12:1 afr, commanding a mere 19° of advance, I was getting 7.8° of retard, that gradually tapered off as the rpm climbed, to less than 1° at 5,200 rpm.

  7. #7
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    Now I am getting somewhere. Removed 2° additional CTS compensation at 205+ and ran with the burst knock at 0. Only saw a few brief points of 2° retard and that was mostly in OD when the TCC locks. Going to need that 3.73 G80 sooner than later. Now that I have the P0128 code turned off, I'll stick my 170°F thermostat back in. That will safely bring me up from 24-25° of timing to 28-29° by keeping the engine and IATs lower.
    Last edited by Fast355; 04-19-2013 at 03:39 PM.

  8. #8
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    Speaking in terms of pure speculation I am going to say that your problem most likely isn't related to the noise you are hearing regardless of the source. This is based on your experiences with timing changes etc. It sounds to me like you are on the right track with tuning and lowering coolant temps etc. Just my 2 cents on the noise, if the trans does have a 2nd gear specific noise then it would probably be in the rear planet and/or captured bearing as well as sunshell flex. I understand your desire to upgrade to a 4L80E, but just remember that they are heavier, take more power to operate, and are relatively more expensive generally speaking. They also have their inherent flaws to deal with. If you can build a trans then I'd say build a solid 4L60E instead. You can throw upgrades that basically just increase pressures and clamping forces at the trans all day long. But, if you don't actually upgrade the internals and have stock frictions that have seen slippage and been abused, then nothing is going to improve the function of the trans and you might actually be worsening the problem.
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