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Thread: Frustration continues

  1. #1

    Frustration continues

    I have been working on tuning my IH Scout with an OBDI setup. I had a cheapy VSS and decided to up grade so I bought a Stewart Warner to match the SW speedo I found on ebay for $50, I picked up the divider so I could use that in conjunction with the ECM. FIgure this way I can have a functioning speedo, reliable data for the tuning and I am going to be eating my cake too! At the same time I rigged up a fuel pressure gauge to verify fuel pressure. That cheap POS pressure tester from HF was just that, a POS, I had everything tightened up and hit the key, yup fuel everywhere the T setup that came with it would not stop leaking WOW. So I "engineered" a more suitable T and fixed that issue.

    For the VSS, I actually read the directions this time and it was suggested that you should wire it up before you connect it. As time is winding down I go to leave and forgot to hook the damn thing up. As I am hooking it up the "tang" that came with the VSS did not fit in the notch in the transfer case so now I am late and have to leave so I took it to the grinder and "engineered" it to fit...well imagine that the VSS does not work. Any suggestions on where to look first with the VSS? There is no way the tang is balanced, pretty sure it is out of round but do not know how sensitive the sensor is with that. Will I need the VSS before I start burning chips?

    Then I am heading back and see that I am running 12lbs of fuel pressure, I stop several time and get it up to 14 lbs but when I hammer down it drops about a quarter to half a pound, do I need to worry about the pressure drop? Is 14lbs suitable or should I drop it back towards 13? Or does that even matter?

    Does anyone else have these issues or should I heed the signs and just flush my head in the toilet

  2. #2
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    What ECM/PCM are you trying to run without VSS?

    If your pressure holds steady at the 1/2 pound drop even at high RPM WOT you'll be fine.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  3. #3
    I am running the 7747. While I have the pressure gauge hooked up, what is the optimum pressure to be at and what is the acceptable range for pressure drop? I will keep the gauge hooked up until I get it dialed in. Also when I did the conversion, it was stated that I should put the gauge on the return side as well, is this necessary? This was a nightmare in itself but I will do it if it helps the cause.

  4. #4
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    With 1227747 you'll be fine without VSS, only necessary for 700r4 TCC lockup. The VSS can have some helping effects with idle.

    Return side fuel should be 0 PSi or close, no need to test it if you have 13 PSI on feed side. 1 or 2 or 3 PSI on return raises feed side by same amount. Not sure why your getting a small drop? Old vehicle conversions have charging issues which usually show as lower pressure till engine revved and alternator puts out more. The real test for drop in pressure is WOT high RPM run, if you can see gauge

    Sometimes under hood heat changes gauges under hood. I set mine up as a temporary with braided line and run it up under windshield wiper. Tuning done, WOT tested and I remove it.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  5. #5
    Good to know, I have mine running throught the floor via the transfer case shift lever boot. I can see it as I drive...proly not the safest thing but its temporary. Any ideas with my VSS?

  6. #6
    Been trying to do some tuning, mostly to get rid of someof the hesitation and spit back. I have logged data and burned 4 differentchips with all but the same results, when I first fire up and get going it runsgreat a little doggish from a dead stop up to speed (stop signs) but if Imanually shift it into low I can get rid of most of the symptoms. But after Iget running for a while 30+ minutes I will get that little backfire/spit backwhen I am cruising along say 35mph just a hair above idle and get into it. Themost irritating issue is from the take off from stop is terrible, embarrassinglyterrible; I feather the throttle and can get her to pull away. It seems asthough I need to keep the RPM's up in order to run smoothly.

    Was wondering if this sounds like a shot cam or if it is something I can tuneout. I still have the fuel pressure gauge hooked up and the only odd thingthere is when the engine is cooler I have 14lbs, after thoroughly warmed up itwill drop to 13lbs but stays within about 1/4lb idle to WOT.

    I would greatlyappreciate any input

    Last edited by Cricket_crawler; 04-09-2013 at 08:59 PM. Reason: whats up with the font color

  7. #7
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Post a log of issues...

    Fuel pressure change is probably because of voltage, cold higher idle = more voltage and warn lower idle = lower voltage. Voltage is power for fuel pump.

    If you don't have any vacuum leaks and timing is set? What your experiencing is not enough accelerator pump in a carb? It's acalled AE Acceleration Enrichement in EFI. AE TPS is short burst and AE MAP is longer till it's done. Try increasing the entire tables by 50%.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by EagleMark View Post
    Post a log of issues....
    Sorry even though the status says fuel-injected we all know I am a noob...I hope you wanted the latest data log? I am attaching it anyway!!
    Attached Files Attached Files

  9. #9
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Dam that Scout is FAST! You went from 0 to 165 MPH in 7 seconds!!!

    Good brakes too! From 165 to 45 in 1 second!

    TCC is locking up and you don't have one?

    Error code 24 is set...

    Thought you were burning chips? There's no spark advance or BPW in that log...

    Do you have EGR? By looks of BLM table History STD Deviation it looks like it's on...

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by EagleMark View Post
    TCC is locking up and you don't have one?

    Error code 24 is set...

    Thought you were burning chips? There's no spark advance or BPW in that log...

    Do you have EGR? By looks of BLM table History STD Deviation it looks like it's on...
    IDK what a TCC is anyway, how would I disable this? Where can you find the error codes? what is code 24? I thought I was burning chips also, how would I get the spark advance or BPW into a log? No EGR, thought I disabled that...maybe I don't have a grip on this stuff after all!

  11. #11
    Oh wow, I am sure I posted an old log ...take a gander at this one!
    Attached Files Attached Files

  12. #12
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cricket_crawler View Post
    IDK what a TCC is anyway, how would I disable this? Where can you find the error codes? what is code 24? I thought I was burning chips also, how would I get the spark advance or BPW into a log? No EGR, thought I disabled that...maybe I don't have a grip on this stuff after all!
    TCC is Tourque Converter Control. it was coming on because of speed, which next log has no speed.

    Is this a manual trans? What bin did you start with?

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  13. #13
    $42 mask, ASDU bin, it is an automatic TF727.

  14. #14
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Hmmm... the way you drive, the TPS movement looks like a manual?

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  15. #15
    That is mostly out of necessity to keep it running especially when accelerating off idle! If I keep in drive I am setting myself up for the finger pointing and snickering from innocent passerbys!

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