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Thread: Tuning $0D AE

  1. #1
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Tuning $0D AE

    I need to tune the AE in my bin. We touched on it a bit in my o2 sensor thread. The stock 5.7L AE settings are not enough, so I copy and pasted all the AE parameters from a $0E 7.4L bin and they are too much. I compared them, some are not far from each other, some are drasticly different, none seem to make much sense when comparing them to each other. So I figure its best to just set the AE setting back to whats stock for this bin (BJYM 5.7L) and go from there.
    So looking at the parameters, I'm guessing that some effect when it comes on, and others effect how much. So I need some schooling on which is which and by how much to start chaning them. I'm thinking adjusting when it comes on first, cause I think mark said in my o2 thread, it wasnt coming on much. Then once I set that, I can fiddle with how much.
    And on that note, how should AE effect afr? I know you dont want it to go lean, but do you want it to go rich? Right now with the 7.4L parameters, if I bump the throttle at idle (a quick blip/rev) it drops down to around 12 or so afr and take a second or so to clear it. I'm thinking thats way too much?
    So anyone here tuned $0D AE and can show me how?
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

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    Fuel Injected! PJG1173's Avatar
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    I too have been struggling with this exact thing. i have been able to isolate my AE in my logs using my access database but I haven't had much success with getting it right. I am having a hard time determining if I need more/less tps ae or map ae. unfortunatly my truck is sitting on my trailer and I haven't had any time to mess with it in weeks.
    87 4Runner, 15" spring lift, 3" body, chevy vortec 355, 5.29 gears, 38.5x15.5x15" Boggers, 280hr, 16168625 running $0D
    93 S10, 36x12.5x15 TSL's, custom turbo headers, 266HR cam, p&p vortec heads, $0D Marine MPFI with 8psi boost.
    05 Silverado, 2' lift, 4" exhaust, Bully Dog programmer,

  3. #3
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    TPS AE is a short amount of time to start AE. Like M/sec

    MAP AE is a longer amount of time to complete AE. Like 2 + seconds.

    WIde Band is easiest to adjust AE Open Loop . Can be done Closed Loop if you watch INT/STFT closely. Differant masks may not work with INT?

    I really like monitors for adjusting AE, set up monitor with desired AFR, Wide Band AFR and MAP or TPS %. Watch the data lines and get desired AFR and WB AFR or just WB AFR to all stay the same when accelerating. MAP or TPS%, is your guide to when it is happening.

    When accelerating, if INT adds fuel? it needs more AE.

    When accelerating if WB goes lean? It needs more fuel.

    When accelerating if INT takes away fuel? It needs less fuel.

    When accelerating if WB goes rich? It needs less fuel.

    When accelerating you get a pop through TB, it's way short of AE.

    When accelerating you get a big bog, it's got to much AE. Sometimes this can be mistaken as you are actually lean on AE but don't get a pop.

    I've usually never had to adjust single cells, only multiply the entire tables. Big cams are another world...

    JeepsandGuns said in other thread his 5.7L table was short of AE, his 7.4L tables were to much AE. Since it's basically a stock 401 engine this seems logical, it's right in the middle!

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  4. #4
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagleMark View Post
    JeepsandGuns said in other thread his 5.7L table was short of AE, his 7.4L tables were to much AE. Since it's basically a stock 401 engine this seems logical, it's right in the middle!
    Yea I had originally thought it might be as simple as comparing my current bin, with one of my older bins with the stock 5.7 settings and then splitting the difference. It wasnt that easy, as some parameters were not off by much at all, while others were drasticly different.
    If you want, I can post up my bin with the 7.4 ae settings and you can compare it to a 5.7 bin and see what I am talking about.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  5. #5
    Super Moderator dave w's Avatar
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    I crunch the AE from the data log using Microsoft Excel.

    dave w
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  6. #6
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    I fooled around with it a bit yesterday. First I got the bright idea to try the setting from a 4.3 cpi bin, they didnt seem too far off from the stock 5.7 settings, and I thought being for cpi might work better than tbi setting. I was way wrong, it was horrid
    So I set them back to the stock 5.7L settings. I fired up the emulator part of my autoprom and played around a bit. I watched the dash and ae shows as coming active when it should, so I think that parts fine, I think its just the ammount of fuel that needs adjusted. I adjusted on the tables for ae vs map and ae vs tps. I slowly started raseing the tables, keeping it lower at low settings and higher at higher settings. Basicly keeping it a diagonal line. I have increased the tables a good bit (but not excessiave) and it has gotten better, but still a slight lean jump when hitting it. Do I keep going up, or do I need to adjust some of the other parameters? There are so many I feel has a effect on it, but I have no idea what/how it does effect. There are multipliers, thresholds, coeffecients, factors, etc... none of them I understand.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  7. #7
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Why not? Just keep adding, it'll bog from to much when you get to much. Can also go by driver feedback till close, then Wideband OL is much easier to see it to dial in perfect. One thing we didn't think of yet... manual trans usually has more then auto!

    All those complications is why I only do adjustments to the 2 tables...

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  8. #8
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Well there is apparently a lot more to the $0D AE than than adjusting those two tables. I had to run into town this morning and when I started driving (engine was cold) it was almost flooding it when AE was kicking on. I pulled out, it bogged badly and I looked and AFR was like down to like 10.something and cleared up, then I shifted and it did it again. I tried and when AE was kicking on it was doing that. Once engine got up to temp it stopped doing that. Something changes when the engine is cold and it pumps in way too much AE.
    So for now I have changed everything back to the 7.4 settings. Its a bit much, but not overly bad. For now I am just gonna live with it. I would rather it be a bit much, than have it too lean like with the 5.7 settings.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  9. #9
    Fuel Injected! gregs78cam's Avatar
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    Try these.
    Difference AE Coefficient vs. Temperature - Location: 4B5A
    AE Correction Factor vs. Temperature - Location: 4B67
    TPS Difference AE Correction Factor vs. MAT - Location: 4B78(if you are using MAT)
    MAP Difference AE Correction Factor vs. Temperature - Location: 4B89
    1978 Camaro Type LT, 383, Dual TBI, '7427, 4L80E
    1981 Camaro Z-28 Clone, T-Tops, 350/TH350
    1981 Camaro Berlinetta, V-6, 3spd
    1974 Chevy/GMC Truck, '90 TBI 350, '7427, TH350, NP203, 6" lift, 35s

  10. #10
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    AE Correction Factor vs. Temperature
    MAP Difference AE Correction Factor vs. Temperature
    TPS Difference AE Coefficient vs. Temperature

    So if you get it right when warmed up? Compare the bin to CPI/MPFI and find the correction Vs temp is about half!

    Then introduce MAT and it starts taking away AE at 56c...

    I'm finding everything is an experiment when changing $0D TBI to MPFI...

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  11. #11
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Greg beat me...

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

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