Wanted parts to a bench programmer for 16188051 (32 pin micro pack connetor)

[bobdec]

Looking for two old PCM connectors, and/or a source for the pins to build a bench programming setup for '94-95 GM 16188051 PCM. I found these pins by searching, not sure if they are correct or not. http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/497 . Any direction would be appreciated. The PCM uses four 32 pin Micro-pack 100W series connectors. I need two connectors to build the programming cable, or I can just use pins and manually attach them.

[RobertISaar]

those look like the right ones... the 93-95 P66 V6 PCM uses the same connectors/pins(with the exception of the P66 V6 having 3 connectors, not 4).

do you know which color connectors you need? i think i have a spare black, clear and blue. i also have a bunch of spare pins.

[EagleMark]

Black and Blue...

1994-1997 LT1/LT4/L99 GM
4.3L V8 -- 5.7L V8
Black Connector Pin B15 Battery 12V
Black Connector Pin B30 Battery 12V
Black Connector Pin B16 GROUND
Blue Connector Pin D1 Ground
Blue Connector Pin D3 Switched 12V (ignition)
Blue Connector Pin D7 Serial Data (1996-1997LT1)
Blue Connector Pin D29 Serial Data (1994-1995)

[bobdec]

Robert, I'd love to have both the black and blue to keep it cleaner, but two of any color would work. Plus 7 pins with a couple of spars. I'm planning on using the Arduino FT232RL setup in you "Uber-easy USB ALDL" post. Plan is to build a 'USB to PCM' box/harness with +12/gnd/USB as inputs and one cable with two PCM connectors as output. Box would have a +12v ign on/off toggle.
Buy the way I never put an ammeter on a PCM, do you guys know how many total (batt & ign) amps I need for a power source ? If low enough I may think building it into the test box..Then I would only need 120v AC and USB as input and that would make the setup cleaner.

Back to the connectors and pins, there is a junkyard on e-bay selling those connectors for $20.00 each and new pins are going $0.50 each so I don't expect a free ride. Let me know what you want for the stuff and shipping. We can work something out, PayPal or whatever. Thanks Bob D.

[RobertISaar]

my 16149396 bench draws just over 1/2 amp... i imagine yours will be similar.

yeah, i have quite the deal for you compared to those prices.

[bobdec]

PM sent.. I never throw away any of the old 120vac to DC power converters, got a full box of them. Found a 12V @ 1.0 A, that should work..

[EagleMark]

Those darn little converters have always worried me when flashing on a bench. My test bench has been set up with a small lawn tractor battery, always on a batterey tender since I used to run TBI systems and a distributor off a drill. So I stuck with the 12 volt battery.

The worry part comes from all the warnings when flashing a vehicle. Don't flash with battery charger hooked up! Don't use inverter to power laptop charger. Make sure battery is fully charged!

I've never bricked a PCM yet in a car or on the bench with this method or following these guidelines!

The pro type bench top harness comes with power converter. Is it specific type 120 volt to 12volt converter that does not have noise or draw issues? Like you I have a drawer full of different types I've saved, they are a dime a dozen, but is quality an issue? Or am I just a worry wart?

[RobertISaar]

be careful with those AC adaptors.... some of them give some pretty wild voltages unless they're under a specific load. i have a 1amp, 12 volt one that gives out 18 volts with no load, 16 volts with a .14 amp load and it keeps dropping from there.

[RobertISaar]

Those darn little converters have always worried me when flashing on a bench. My test bench has been set up with a small lawn tractor battery, always on a batterey tender since I used to run TBI systems and a distributor off a drill. So I stuck with the 12 volt battery.

The worry part comes from all the warnings when flashing a vehicle. Don't flash with battery charger hooked up! Don't use inverter to power laptop charger. Make sure battery is fully charged!

I've never bricked a PCM yet in a car or on the bench with this method or following these guidelines!

The pro type bench top harness comes with power converter. Is it specific type 120 volt to 12volt converter that does not have noise or draw issues? Like you I have a drawer full of different types I've saved, they are a dime a dozen, but is quality an issue? Or am I just a worry wart?

worry away, there are valid reasons for all of those concerns... the ones i can explain:

flashing with a battery charger attached, since some chargers charge via pulses of high voltage, that can cause issues
don't use inverter while flashing, i have a friend with a dead HPTuner cable because of this.... the ground pin on his inverter broke while in use, so i guess the laptop used the vehicle ground though the OBD2 port to continue charging? anyways, killed the cable.
battery fully charged: well, duh, battery voltage dropping too low in the middle of a flash can result in a bricked PCM.

when i bench something, i power it using a computer power supply... gives me MANY amps of 12, 5 and 3.3 volt power, with VERY good filtering and regulation.

[EagleMark]

I can see a computer power supply being of much better quality then one of those little black converters that are meant to charge a battery! The computer power supply is just that, a power supply, and has got to be clean power for a PC. The other converters are not power supplies, they are battery chargers... aren't they all plugged into a device that has a battery? I just can't recall any of them being attached to something without a battery?

[bobdec]

I was looking at this as a model for my setup, but you guys talked me out of using the 120v converter. http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=713 . Except mine would have a USB input pigtale and the two PCM connectors for OBD1, not what the pic shows.. I have my waverunner batteries stored in the garage, and a few different types of chargers till I figure that part out. . I always wanted a good regulated +12v supply for projects. May be the time to look into it. As far a bricking the PCM -- I have a dedicated old w/95 tuning laptop, wi fi disabled, no AV. Do all my work on my desktop and copy files USB-USB to the laptop. I always load code with charger at 6 amp range on car battery and laptop plugged in. For on the road logging I have a 150 watt inverter I run the laptop off of. My Z28 has a permanent USB ALDL cable plugged in with a USB 6 ft extension wrapped in the glove box. My laptop has spent more time in the passenger seat than my wife... so far my main PCM is still running, just ordered a spare off e-bay for $50.00, see what I get.

[RobertISaar]

i've done pretty much everything "wrong" before with OBD1 and have never had a failed flash...

that being said, i don't do it purposely. i've flashed with a battery charger attached, flashed with a weak battery, had my inverter running to charge my laptop while flashing, used the power locks while flashing... lots of no-nos.

at one point in time, i'm almost certain GM recommended having a charger attached to the car while flashing using the Tech2.... i could be wrong though.

i believe with OBD2, the problem lies in the cables used for flashing.

[EagleMark]

To many variables, to many cables, to many different laptops and chargers, then ad AD ports to cable?

I'll stick to simple. Works flawlessly so far! My HP DV7 laptop has such a huge battery I never have power issues to need a inverter. Although I have left my battery tender, which charges at 1.25a and then switches to some really low something for storage. I bought it new in 1994 to take care of my new Harley battery. It must have a bazillion hours on it by now.

As far as making a bench harness? It's no big deal, just the power scares me. Here's a writeup I did for OBDII but in the back ground you can see my LT1. Warning when building one. You do not need key on power to flash, but you do need the key on switch when changing a VIN number.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...light=benchtop

[bobdec]

Just an update, thanks for the parts. Got bench setup working using an ALDL-USB cable. Still waiting for the Arduino FT232RL so I can eliminate the ALDL cable. Having TunerPro data logging problems w/erratic, dead spots, going to open a thread in TunerPro RT section.

[bobdec]

Latest update, tester completed pic below. USB and +12v input, PCM connectors output. Plus terminals were added to the box to allow USB connection flexibility to other benchtop PCM's or a vehicle ALDL cable in a pinch. Put a 5 amp fuse inside the box, the PCM draws about 300 Ma on the +12v input. I still looking for an inexpensive power source, was using one of my waverunner batteries, but they go back in come April. May pick up a multi voltage output PC power supply and set it up for benchtop work.

Also FYI in post #3 pin B16 is actually sensor ground, it's a clean ground output from PCM to MAP & transmission sensors, not an input. It's not needed for programming so I left it out. Also on the F-Body's serial data is actually wired to pin D30. Since Y,B use pin D29 and both use the same PCM, serial data pins D29 and D30 must be tied together. I wired in D30 to match my Z28, did not try D29 but they do read 0 ohms to each other with a meter.

Project was easy using the 'Uber-easy ALDL Cable' post and the FT232RL works flawlessly.. PC assigns the com port as a serial adapter. Took 3 weeks to get the FT232RL mailed from Singapore, could not find a US source for that low price..

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