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Thread: Vortec to 0411 swap and info thread!

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  1. #1
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Vortec to 0411 swap and info thread!

    Did the Vortec to 0411 swap and all went well except now I have a ABS light on? Ideas?

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  2. #2
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Found it! Out of all them pins I only got this one in wrong spot... should have been C2 Red 49 and I had it in C1 Blue 49.


    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  3. #3
    Fuel Injected!
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    what kindof vehicle are you swapping this on?

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    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    1998 Chevy Silverado.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  5. #5
    Fuel Injected! Lextech's Avatar
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    Glad you got it sorted out. The swap is VERY easy---But, you have to get the pins in the right spots. How long did it take you? My record is 43 minutes without doing the 4 Trans Range Switch wires. Those 4 wires take the most time.

    Jeff
    98 GMC RCSB, 5.0, 4L80e, Moser M60, 4.10 gear, Homemade twin turbo w/Junkyard T3 turbos, 24x CNP, 12200411 PCM.

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    No where near 43 minutes! But then again I don't do anything fast... First one I've done, pulling all the pigatail wires from 0411 plugs, installing the trans wires, doing the swap of pins... about 4 hours work and another 4 hours studying and thinking the job through, taking pictures.

    Another couple hours to find out my RoadRunner was bad... another hour or so to figure out what I did wrong to cause the ABS light. It was a mis pinned VSS wire...

    One thing I thought of while looking through your pin out spread sheet was what would I do if I got a wire wrong? How would I find C1 yellow/blk or? Then it came to me! Label each set of wires from each Vortec plug. C1 Blue etc... sure enough when I had that VSS wire wrong I could go right back to the wires to each plug and find the right yellow/blk wire and fix it!

    Runs sweet! Way more options in EFI Live. Lean cruise works sweet.

    What do you do for the 0411 hold down? It fits in the box just fine but the hold down does not latch to the new PCM.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  7. #7
    Fuel Injected!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lextech View Post
    Glad you got it sorted out. The swap is VERY easy---But, you have to get the pins in the right spots. How long did it take you? My record is 43 minutes without doing the 4 Trans Range Switch wires. Those 4 wires take the most time.

    Jeff
    Jeff,
    Just FYI the swap worked out. The G-series has about 3-4 wires missing from your chart and I have one left over wire not mentioned. Everything seems to work fine without it???? Need to dig into the 97s wiring diagram a little more and try to figure it out someday, but at the moment it runs great on the slightly tweaked tune. Also found that a few of the wires had different colors from the truck, but I just moved them pin for pin since I know the PCMs are practically the same between the 1997 Truck and Vans. Initially I put a pin in the wrong spot that had me chasing my tail even worse due to the fact it was a different color on the Express than a Pickup. I had an ABS light and no first gear until I resolved it. I had C2 48 and C2 49 swapped. On the Express C1 15 was light green in color just like the 1-2 shift solenoid.

    Not sure why you even need the external wires honestly????? My 97 Express 0411 swap runs fine without them and the previous 94 G20 TPI swap ran fine without them too. In HP Tuners all I had to do was go into the General tab under Systems and change the PRNDL equipped setting to NONE. The PCM uses the internal transmission range sensor and all is happy with the world. Let me relearn the crank and everything, although it ran fine without a crank relearn. I did not even bother with the canister pressure, just disabled it and the EGR. With the EVAP and EGR turned off in the tune, my scan tool shows all the readiness as READY. Will soon find out if the state machine will say differently. Will mention that I thought I was going to get away with not altering the EGR wiring since I had it turned off, fired it up and it ran like pooo, until it was above idle. Found it was the EGR, unplugged the valve for now. I do not plan on hooking it back up as I hate what it does to the inside of the intake.

    Out of the box running Hypertech Spark and WOT fuel mapping for a 4.3 V6 it runs very well. I tweaked the transmission and removed the torque management from it as well as increased the line pressure. Shifts crisply now and keeps pulling through the gears.

    Chris
    Last edited by Fast355; 02-11-2013 at 08:28 AM.

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