Not sure how to post the BIN I am using but i have either fouled the plugs or just gone way out of range.
Not sure how to post the BIN I am using but i have either fouled the plugs or just gone way out of range.
It is not a real intuitive process. First click the reply button then at the bottom of the reply box click "go advanced". Then below the advanced reply box there is a box called attachments, you click on the manage attachments box inside that box, a new screen opens that allows you to attach your files. I hope this helps, there are several other replies that may make the process clearer.Originally Posted by BReal669
We will also need to know what .xdf file you are using, attach it also
Last edited by MO LS Noobie; 10-30-2023 at 03:42 PM. Reason: additional info
Ok so no XDF file I have been working with universal patcher and have not been prompted for one so IDK about that, Nothing to share. Of the three BIN's V2 is probably the least abused and 006 is a close second while 005 is easily the most abused of the bunch.
See questions at reply 12 and 14. Is there one "tune" that runs better than the others? Disconnect oxygen sensors, reset the fuel trims, and try that. That will put the fuel trims back to zero and with the oxygen sensors disconnected, it will keep the engine from attempting to adjust it. I had a customer with a Corvette that I put Edelbrock port fuel injection on, and I had to disable fuel trim below 1200 RPM, could not get it to idle with the cam that was in it.
At this point it is not running on any bin. Going to pull and clean plugs again they were fouled beyond fouled last time it was doing this. When you say reset the fuel trims what do you mean? Sorry I'm a bit ignorant but trying to learn.
reply to #12 No leak found
Seems to hover around .44705 V ??
Okay, let's take these one at a time. To reset fuel trims you can either (1) using a real scanner, not just a code reader, there is a function to reset fuel trims. (2) perform a hard reset by disconnecting your battery cables and short the positive and negative cables together using a 20 amp fused lead for 10 minutes. (3) any time you install a new tune (BIN) file all of your adaptive values start off at their base setting, that is no fuel trim or spark adaptation.
Regarding Oxygen sensor readings: the voltage that you are seeing is probably the bias voltage that they put into the oxygen sensor to test. With your obvious fouled plugs that is my guess is the oxygen sensor is fouled also. I'm assuming narrowband oxygen sensor, is yours a three or four wire or the older single wire sensor? The three and four wire sensors are called heated oxygen sensors and they heat up and start working much faster, and are more resistant to fouling.
When you get the fresh spark plugs in your engine watch the oxygen sensor voltage it should start off around 0.45 V but as it comes online it should increase to .9 V or higher if it is rich. It will drop to .1 V or lower if it is lean. Misfire will put excessive oxygen in the exhaust and make oxygen sensor voltages irrelevant.
Regular or narrowband Oxygen sensors only read between approximately 13.7:1 (0V) and 15.7:1 (1 V usually). Wideband oxygen sensors, also called air fuel ratio sensors, are accurate between approximately 11:1 and 18:1 air fuel ratio. 14.7:1 is what is considered stoichiometric air fuel ratio with gasoline this will be 0.45to 0.50 V on your oxygen sensor reading. That is what you are shooting for in a normal engine under cruise conditions with gasoline. It is normal to see the voltage swing between 0 and 1 V but your long-term trim should stay near zero or 128 Block Learn with the earlier computers.
I agree with the prior responses about "decapped" injectors. If you have a another set of regular injectors I would start there. Have you checked fuel pressure? There are so many variables with a combination that has never run that it is difficult to narrow it down without having hands on the engine. This should get you started on the adventure. Good luck
So I'm seeing A/F starts out at 0 and then steps to 3 then 7 then 14 during cranking with spark advance at 24 and not getting anything. Fresh plugs going back to pull them and clean check gap and compression make sure everything is timed proper. I will post the bin I'm using now when I get back to my laptop. Chemo on Friday was kind of rough so moving a little slow and got new fuel filter and wideband to install but it is starting to rain here so might be a while. Question on wideband tho having dual exhaust with no cross over pipe where do I want to install it? Should I have a bung and plug on otherwise so I can move it back and forth or just bite the bullet and make an H pipe and put it in middle of that?
If you have stock manifolds have a bung welded in near the upstream sensor. "H" or "X" pipe always a good idea, but not always practical.
You should be able to start and run truck in open loop-both upstream O2s disconnected, fuel trim reset, and wideband in place of one of the upstream O2s.
As soon as i finish replacing kinked fuel line and adding new filter i will do just that and let you know.
Up and running with 02 sensors hooked up and just a matter of tuning at this point. Thank you very much to all for all the help and advice you are Much appreciated. I have a tuning g question but I think it warrants a new post in a different category. Thank you again.
Glad we all could help.
I think it is against the rules to have multiple accounts �� lol jk doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize where the majority of the help came from and I thank you Sir.
You are very welcome. Just trying to give back a little bit of what the people on this site have helped me with. May the Lord bless you with this project and visit his healing hand upon you.
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