LQ4 Tune Question

[YungTyph]

I am struggling to get a decent tune on my swap project- its a cammed LQ4 (sloppy stage 2 copy cat cam) currently MAF disabled trying to set my VE table. My wideband is on the driver side right next to my O2 sensor. I see fairly normal AFR data, but the car feels like its running and reacting rich. The car generally wants to die off throttle and while putting the clutch in.

https://log.tunezilla.com/s/VN8bypi3
This is a recent log I took, I ran the car through gears 1-2-3 and then my fuel cut strangely (almost sounded like anti-lag) and then the car died.

My O2 sensor data seems weird to me, but its possible that this looks normal? figured it would more like 0V and 1V flickers rather than a semi analog looking signal.

Would love any insight on this issue and the tune in general- the car is just not happy yet.

EDIT 9/1/2023: Dying issues and weirdness with idle seemed tied to manual vs auto bin. With an updated manual 6L and updated airflow, the car is happy.

EDIT 9/10/2023: My O2 sensor data WAS weird, they were reporting rich and reacting very slow. This resulted in extremely lean closed loop fuel trims and subsequently my AFR. That "antilag" was basically me leaning out.

EDIT AND CONCLUSION: Cleaned injectors, new spark plugs and routed melted coil pack cables. Tune was OK, was just misfiring pretty badly.

[YungTyph]

https://log.tunezilla.com/s/3lf6iUXA

Additional log from this session. From 136seconds to 200 or so its a 1,2,3 from dead. Died trying to let out the clutch a few times...

Any help is extremely welcome!

[NomakeWan]

Switching only really happens at steady state operation in closed loop. If you're doing pulls the voltage will roughly follow the A/F change instead. The second log shows more switching-type behavior since you're doing cruise.

Don't have specific experience with LQ4s or cam setups however, so I'm afraid that's about as much help as I can offer.

[YungTyph]

Switching only really happens at steady state operation in closed loop. If you're doing pulls the voltage will roughly follow the A/F change instead. The second log shows more switching-type behavior since you're doing cruise.

Don't have specific experience with LQ4s or cam setups however, so I'm afraid that's about as much help as I can offer.

That makes sense, thanks for the reply! I will continue to investigate. All fuel trims are deep into the negatives, so I am assuming I can tune a bit leaner just based on that for regular cruising, and trust the wideband for any WOT stuff. Both of these "pulls" were less than 30% throttle, so still what I would call normal driving conditions.

[MO LS Noobie]

You might look at your tune and see if it was properly segment swapped for a manual transmission. Specifically the throttle cracker and throttle follower settings, there are several settings just for manual transmission under airflow, fuel, and transmission. For larger than stock camshafts typically you need to lower the the VE settings at lower rpm/loads – 10 to 20%, and raise the settings at high rpm/load – about 10% to start with.

[YungTyph]

You might look at your tune and see if it was properly segment swapped for a manual transmission. Specifically the throttle cracker and throttle follower settings, there are several settings just for manual transmission under airflow, fuel, and transmission. For larger than stock camshafts typically you need to lower the the VE settings at lower rpm/loads – 10 to 20%, and raise the settings at high rpm/load – about 10% to start with.

I had a somewhat happy engine with torque parameters disabled with my stock 5.3 before this, thought I could get away with it again. I will go ahead and try a more proper seg swap.

Those VE tables track, seem to be fairly close to my original startup table. Thanks for the reply!