Hello. Here to tune my 93 Typhoon

[Rexxenexx]

Hi all. I'm new to all this tuning stuff, but not new to computers and Hex editing software etc. I frequent the SyTy net forums so that's probably the best way to get the history of my '93 Typhoon. Lots of unanswered questions and a "banned" spam bot named anaweild or something sitting in the "Who's Online" box 24/7(I'm glad this forum is a little more strict about registration), but that's another story for another time.
The Typhoon. I had to put my Ty project on the side late 90's in LA after it was constantly overboosting, even at 3/4 throttle. I was in college and working IT on the side in Seattle so I didn't really have the time for it. It was previously "tuned" by RoadRace Engineering so I could take it to events like The Silver State Classic or cross country driving when I got out of college. They added an oil cooler, trans cooler, a boost controller that looked like an EQ, an inline fuel pump, etc. All this stuff was JANK at best. It was fast, but I don't know how, one day, all of a sudden it was overboosting any time I got on it even a little.
The Typhoon has been between my house and my parents house for over 20 years. Pretty much just sitting. I tried once in early 2000's to get it running proper, but I didn't have the time again to dig deep, and again wasted time and $ getting it running as I thought I would. Really nobody could help. I asked. I tried. I'm sure you guys have been there.
2022 I went ham (Ham PartII really). Convinced there was a fuel delivery issue more than an overboost issue (it ALWAYS had a fuel issue because it sat for long periods) I installed a New gas tank (again), new fuel pump (again), new FSU (again), new fuel filter (again), new AN lines tank to transfercase, new adj FPR, and made my own airbox out of a Ford Aerostar box because the stock intake tube was cracked on both ends. 3D Printed an adapter for it too. I got it smogged, then taken off the over 20 year PNO. It still had the overboost problem. So like all of you would do, I went to and over anything that controls boost, the solenoid, wires to the solenoid, and the actuator. I got an adjustable boost controller - Greddy Profec (I tried a APEXi BC post RoadRace Crackerjack BC, that didn't really help). This is after 3 different GM solenoids (over the 20+ years) and cleaning the solenoid terminals didn't work. Still overboosting. So I took the wheelwell off to check the actuator arm since the actuator itself was holding pressure, the eyelet was too far IN/short arm. Fixed it by screwing the eyelet out until it was just offcenter of the flap arm closed, and at the same time checked the movement. All good. THIS was 1 of 2 major problems fixed. I think it turned out to be 0 solenoid (ref boost) 19 PSI vs now 13 PSI max boost. I could probably do with one or two more eyelet preload on it, but meh. It's working. I then tried the OEM solenoid. Still overboosting at WOT. Switched back to the Greddy Profec. PERFECT. 2 of 2 major problems fixed(ish). I have hit 15.1 PSI no snake rattling in the engine bay at WOT. Feels good even though I'm still playing with it once in a while to get a nice curve the ECU is happy with, and get as close to 14.7 PSI max as I can. I had a really good curve once at 14.5 PSI, but I messed with it that whole day and didn't write down the setting. Still, I'm extremely happy with how it runs now. A legit "Base" if you will.
So here I am. I want a good running stock Typhoon. Not anything out of the ordinary. No 3 Bar MAP high boost deal. Just stock everything including OEM 2 Bar MAP and OEM wastegate solenoid. I want to ultimately remove the Greddy Profec.
The plan, read the stock (1580 BBZB) Memcal tune and adjust the duty cycle of the solenoid DOWN. Yep. The opposite of most people lol. Also update the tune to the last revisions of the Typhoons tune (1620 BBZB). I hope I can find a 1620 BBZB bin and compare with the one out of my Ty. The modified F2 timing table sounds like something my Typhoon could really benefit from. Anyways, I hope that was a good intro to my Typhoon adventures and ultimate goal. I'm still learning a ton by the day as hard as the info is to come by, but really glad much of the data can still be found.

Important stuff I learned (correct me if I'm wrong and I'll change it. Maybe helps others in the future):

-Typhoons ECU is a 1227749 (updated service number 16198263)

-Typhoons Memcal prom chip is a 27C128 (Read-Only)

Chip Addressing Start 000000 End 003FFF
Buffer Addressing Start 000000 End 003FFF

-The chip used on the Adapter (Moats G1/Red Devil River Equiv) SST27SF512

32K File Size Chip Addressing Start 008000 End 00FFFF
32K File Size Buffer Addressing Start 000000 End 007FFF
64K File Size Chip Addressing Start 000000 End 00FFFF
64K File Size Buffer Addressing Start 000000 End 00FFFF

-1620 BBZB Typhoon Memcal

Increased F1 timing in mid-range accel
Modified F2 coolant based timing table for better dist in cold temps and KR anticipation in hot temps
Altered 02 ready timer

[dave w]

Gearhead-efi link for 1227749 information: http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...information-58

[1project2many]

Hello,

That's one helluva story. So many times it ends with "had enough and sold it." SO awesome that you aren't giving up.

I use the same ecm and same program in a turbo Sunbird. I haven't driven the car in a couple of years but mine was approaching 18 psi on 89 octane with the stock turbo and fuel system prior to E10 being introduced. It was a long and slow journey that included thousands of hours of logging and code reading along with well placed mods. These days I have to add a bit of MEK or drop the boost if I want to use 89.

The boost control code in $58 isn't amazing. In fact it's not even great. There's a table for desired boost vs throttle angle and rpm. There's another table for initial wastegate duty cycle vs engine temp and boost. And there are values which are used in machine control code to allow self correction to work in "closed loop boost" so the ecm can change the wastegate duty cycle to achieve the desired boost. There are safety features designed to help if the ecm failes to control boost but they're not for controlling boost, they're for saving the engine. I'm of the opinion that engine operating conditions have a greater range than the boost control code can address. I have set almost every value in the desired boost vs rpm and tps table to max. It seems to work better to control power output by adjusting throttle angle myself.

If you decide to get into the code I'll be happy to help if I can. It's a different world today and there are plenty of reasons to modify code to get better results.

[Terminal_Crazy]

Hello,

These days I have to add a bit of MEK or drop the boost if I want to use 89.

What does the MEK do ? guessing it helps with avoiding knock.
I know it has a very low flash point.
I used it in the print industry years ago. Very good for rejuvenating rubber.

Mitch

[Rexxenexx]

Awesome, thx. I have SO many questions when it comes to these tables and duty cycle. They seem incredibly high, and how does it taper down the duty to let more reference boost in? The Desired Boost Pressure Base vs NTRPMX and NTPSLD is influenced by which... god I don't even know, scalar? The Profec has Duty% and Gain% for example. So the Duty% is like the Initial Duty Cycle once it's own MAP detects boost (you can adjust that trigger pressure too if you want *EDIT:Set to 9.8 PSI currently. That was the best setting I could do to match the ECM requested boost down low.*) then the Gain% + or - will ramp up or down the Duty Cycle as boost increases. Right now my settings are 20% Duty and -10% Gain and I'm getting 15.1 PSI max boost. The curve feels good throughout the RPM and gears. I'll probably change the Gain to -11/-12 to see if I can get max boost closer to 14.7 PSI. Straight reference to wastegate actuator max boost is about 13.1 PSI. I've been eyeing the higher end of the tables "Desired Boost Pressure Base vs NTRPMX and NTPSLD", and "Initial Value of WG DC vs TPS". Specifically the 75% TPS 3200 RPM and up Values. I'll start there, but if it has little affect I might HAVE to rely on the Profec and just move on and hunt for the 1620 revision changes. We'll see.

On a side note: The 58SyTy.xdf Desired Boost Pressure Base vs NTRPMX and NTPSLD percentage I think got messed up in a search/replace edit. It should be 37.5% 50.0% 62.5% 75.0% 87.5% 100% from what I saw on another table. It's like that on the xdf here and on TunerPros own downloads page.

I'm still in the process of acquiring hardware. Been using TunerPro and Datamaster for a couple years to read the data, so that's all good experience/hardwarewise. Binwise, I just got a GQ-4x4, working perfect and tested to be legitimate. I also got a piggyback card (Moates G1 like), a Memcal to 28 pin adapter, and just ordered another ZIF piggyback from Red Devil River. I figured I'll test with the ZIF one until I'm happy, then put the final tune on the non ZIF one. The socket on the non-ZIF card has tiny Pentium era looking pinholes, not the slots I thought it have. It's hard to remove/install without damaging the pins on those tiny hole sockets. Small detail I overlooked. And finally, I just returned Ebay fake SST27SF512s (rebadged Winbonds) to, not kidding, a guy that lives close to me near Los Angeles. So I'm still looking for EEPROMs, but ready to read my stock Ty Memcal and compare with the bins here.

[1project2many]

What does the MEK do ? guessing it helps with avoiding knock.

Yes. It can be used to raise the octane rating of gasoline. It doesn't take much to make a difference.

They seem incredibly high, and how does it taper down the duty to let more reference boost in?

Brian's description of boost control from Syty forum does a great job of explaining GM's strategy.
http://www.sytyforums.com/threads/im...55/post-169213

This method relies on the tuner to adjust for any changes in vehicle configuration. It doesn't do a good job of self correcting if environmental conditions change, either. And it's relatively slow to respond when there's an error (and there's always an error).

This page should be used as a reference when searching through old posts. It has names and some descriptions about tunable variables using GM engineer speak:
https://www.nwstp.com/forum/chiptable.asp

I'm still in the process of acquiring hardware.

If you run across an emulator, snag it. Life is amazingly simple when you can implement changes without burning chips.

[Rexxenexx]

Brian's description of boost control from Syty forum does a great job of explaining GM's strategy.
http://www.sytyforums.com/threads/im...55/post-169213

That's a great description. Makes sense now why matching the requested boost curve is so critical when you're not using the original wastegate solenoid. That wastegate duty cycle table versus MPH trick sounds tempting, but yeah, it'll still be a chasing your own tail deal.

This page should be used as a reference when searching through old posts. It has names and some descriptions about tunable variables using GM engineer speak:
https://www.nwstp.com/forum/chiptable.asp

That's the page I got the correct %ages for the Desired Boost Pressure Base vs NTRPMX and NTPSLD table. Good stuff. Especially for someone like me not knowing what half these acronyms are.

If you run across an emulator, snag it. Life is amazingly simple when you can implement changes without burning chips.

There's a company, BoostedNW, that is making stuff similar to Moates to help in the void. https://boostednw.com/index.php?rout...ory&path=96_95
I tried to order stuff from them but the shipping said pickup only. They have a new emulator "CobraRTP". It's way early, but sounds promising from the description.
Also on their site you can see side by side the Memcal adapter socket difference I was talking about earlier between the Moates G1 and Red Devil River.