Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 27 of 27

Thread: 64K bootable image for '95 LT1 PCM

  1. #16
    Fuel Injected! EDZIP's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Champlain, NY
    Age
    73
    Posts
    330
    Here ya go:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #17
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Age
    44
    Posts
    46
    Thanks for the advice. I did install the floor after installing the first chip the very first time I could tell right off it was too far down. Had a hard time pulling the chip out with the tool too. I didn't clean the pins besides a quick blow on them. The two errors I could have really been due to a pin not connecting correctly. Man it feels good to have this socketed. Now lets hope the E Side doesn't muff up or I'll be doing it but hey all it takes is a little time. Thanks for the info guys!

  3. #18
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Age
    44
    Posts
    46
    Well I'm first to admit when I do something stupid. Few weeks ago I was not able to connect to the PMC to flash. The engine would cut off and on repeatedly. I opened the PCM up and all my soldering joints had blue corrosion. I now know it was from crappy acid core flux. Not sure about the solder but sure it was also. I ended up getting quality rosin core no clean "yea right" of both. I soldered another socket on an untouched PCM that came out of a B-Body. I did an amazing job this go round. Got me some X3 old man glasses haha that really helped see what I was doing.
    I'm still having a problem. I have tried the Flash Blue Gray bin that worked before and even tried the BNDH one. Fans come on soon as I turn the key on. I have tried several cut outs for the floor to test out the chip height in the socket but still no go. I have a floor picked out that I will be using that puts the chip about level with the top of the socket. I have triple checked the pins that I can get to on the socket with a tester and all test ok.
    I did clean the socket pins gently before installing the first chip but I do see a little residue on then that I'm fixing to try to polish up with a knife or something. Man this sucks. All I wanted is to hear the ole girl fire up on Christmas :)

  4. #19
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Age
    44
    Posts
    46
    Guys I don't know what to say. I'm so disappointed. I checked every pin with a meter and by seeing if they were firmly soldered by lightly pushing on them with the back side of a knife. I did find one that looked soldered and tested ok with meter tho the pin would move so I fixed that. I checked them all every time I had a failed attempt because I just didn't know what was causing the fans to come on right off the bat. I tried 10 different chip install heights. I just don't know.
    Makes no sense that my last socket install was sloppy in my opinion and worked great till the corrosion issue. This one I really thought it work the very first try and now look at me. I feel good it isn't the socket but at this point I don't know. This was an untouched PCM. If it was the other one I think it was just ruined. Man I just want my car to run with a socketed PCM.
    Could the E-Side be messed up? I never tried the BNDH file again and maybe I should. I'm flashing the chip with a programmer using Intel N28F512 in the programmer. That is correct right? I didn't save the job as they call it the last time a few months ago but that's what I remember choosing as far as the chip selection to program. I do see an AMD AM28F512 chip. Maybe I'll try that to flash the chip and see how she does tho I really remember using the N28F512 one selected.
    Last edited by troutdog311; 12-27-2017 at 01:56 AM.

  5. #20
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,469
    Can you communicate with the PCM via aldl bus.
    If you get data, tside flash and bin is good. And you should check eside.Maybe the eside on the PCM is bricked.{Runnig fans point to that}
    Also there is two types of raw bins. One is full of zeroes, the other with FFs
    Try reading the bin with eehack.
    And see what side can you communicate with.

  6. #21
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Age
    44
    Posts
    46
    Thank you kur4o for the help. I can't connect to the PCM at all at the moment using aldl at all. To program the chip I'm using a TL66 chip programmer. I just located the last known working 28F512 chip that was on my last PCM and gave it a read. Looking at the data from the TL66 it appears to be the BNDH bin file. I may have got the Flash Blue Gray file mixed up with the BNDH one. I haven't tried the BNDH file since I found that one pin not soldered because I thought for sure it didn't work on my last socket job. I hope I'm just a big dummy and got the two files mixed up. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for the help. I need it

  7. #22
    Fuel Injected! EDZIP's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Champlain, NY
    Age
    73
    Posts
    330
    I haven't done any chip flashing for a long time....but FYI I "kinda" remember a situation where I used the AMD AM28F512 chip data. Try it won't hurt. Try reversing and reflashing the chips...hope you have extra chips?

  8. #23
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Age
    44
    Posts
    46
    Thanks EDZIP, I do have 9 chips total. Well tried the BNDH file and fans came right on as I turn the key. I actually tried to start it for craps and giggles and would fire right up but go dead 5 sec later. It did this every start up. It would not connect with aldl cable. I do have 3-4 virgin chips I'll play with. I just don't understand. I did a much much better job on this solder job and now look at me. It has nothing to do with it being a B-Body PCM right. I know that is stupid question being the PCM part numbers are the same but I just thinking. It is for sure an Intel chip. I'll get it. It's hard for me to give up on something. If you guys think of something please let me know. I'll keep you posted.

  9. #24
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Age
    44
    Posts
    46
    I apologize for hijacking this post. Finally had time to mess with it today. After much testing I finally got it going. Apparently the chip has to be seated way further up than I thought. I know a lot of you told me that was something to no over look and knew that had to be the issue. I stacked 4 cut pieces of credit card for the floor. I tried from none all the way up till I got to the 4th piece before it worked.
    On the first PCM that had the corrosion. I removed the socket and put a new one in. It's the same way being that it needed 4 pieces of credit card for the floor. I don't understand how when I did that first one, one piece worked and not now. Ohh well both are working,,,,,so far haha.
    Thank you for all the help guys!

  10. #25
    Fuel Injected! EDZIP's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Champlain, NY
    Age
    73
    Posts
    330
    Good for you..I suspect that the spring tension and contact alignment were affected during the R&R process. Could be the sockets also..if you get in a bind I have extras that were made in Israel.

  11. #26
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Age
    44
    Posts
    46
    I thought I had replied. Thanks EDZIP, where did you purchase your sockets. I have 2 types in which both have their pros and cons.

  12. #27
    LT1 specialist steveo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    4,002
    I apologize for hijacking this post. Finally had time to mess with it today. After much testing I finally got it going. Apparently the chip has to be seated way further up than I thought. I know a lot of you told me that was something to no over look and knew that had to be the issue. I stacked 4 cut pieces of credit card for the floor. I tried from none all the way up till I got to the 4th piece before it worked.
    On the first PCM that had the corrosion. I removed the socket and put a new one in. It's the same way being that it needed 4 pieces of credit card for the floor. I don't understand how when I did that first one, one piece worked and not now. Ohh well both are working,,,,,so far haha.
    Thank you for all the help guys!
    isn't that annoying? i struggled with this for ages too.

    you would figure if you put the plastic piece back that you broke out before soldering, it would be ok.. but for some reason that height isn't quite right either.

    i found that if you look very carefully at the socket and insert the chip very slowly, you can see the socket pins move a bit when they begin to make contact, so you can tell what the maximum height is, and then set it a bit lower.

    i never quite trusted my socketed ecm for a running vehicle after seeing how finicky the sockets were.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •