are you reading those pressures with a mechanical gauge or just looking at the datalog? commanded pressure and ACTUAL pressure are 2 different things...
There is NO sensor to measure pressure In the transmission, therefore no pressure reading in the datalog. This is how tuners get themselves into trouble and ruin transmissions.
Last edited by tayto; 12-11-2022 at 08:23 AM.
Mechanical readings. I get what you mean, first run was full line pressure at anything above light throttle. I've scaled the pressure added way back, it's got to be a percentage based number instead of psi that the table is labeled in. Max is 20 added, will probably go lower.
I ended up with a max of 12 in the load based pressure table. That put most shifts at part throttle around 120-150, cruise in 3rd at min 150, and all wot shifts at 190-210. That's with a 500 boost valve and transgo sk kit. The psi field heading is wrong; putting 10 in the pressure table returns a rise of about 24-30 psi, which equates to 10 percent of max line pressure 240-300 (I can't stare at gauge while driving). The first run I had everything at 90 assuming 90psi, but it was max line pressure, good thing I never went wide open during first drive. In the 0-64 mph pressure table, I added roughly 10-20 percent in columns below 16 mph, to increase pressure in 1st for uphill starts while towing. Overall, shift feel is closer to stock tune, with longer 1-2 2-3, and pressures holding middle 100's instead of low 100's. Hope this helps somebody.
All the "psi" values are really just the lookup column in the EPC or force motor tables, the current tables for the pressure control solenoid. It's a table of temperature vs pressure giving currents. I don't see it in your list, but it'll be there. Being labelled psi is the biggest mistake in the tuning info you will find. That's why you never go outside the 0-96 range because the table being looked up only has 0-96 columns.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 12-14-2022 at 09:01 AM.
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