350 with 30lb injectors

[ZEDRATED]

Oh ok thanks. I will try to attach the file tonight when I get home. I will also try lowering the fuel pressure and see what happens but I don't think that'll help as it doesn't run to bad with the stock chip, this is why I am convinced that it is something with the bin file.
I will put up the other log tonight. Have you looked at the custom bin file? Anything stand out comparing to the stock bin that'll make it run bad like this in open loop?
I will also check the injectors to see if there is any numbers on them.
Thanks.

[EagleMark]

Running bad in open loop just proves the fueling is way off, closed loop corrects fueling.

[ZEDRATED]

Sounds right. I'll post the other log as soon as I get home.
I still dont get why it doesn't run that bad though with the stock bin comparing to the custom one with the same fuel pressure. It should run even worse with the stock bin?????

[EagleMark]

Well I compared the 2 bins for you... 16000 differences?

The stock chip is $32 and the 6.14.12 bin is $6E... so not sure what a data log would do? Have to use the right ADX file for right mask. You need to back up and figure out what this system is first.

[1project2many]

ZEDRATED, if you can post that log it would be awesome. I'm not so sure this calibration is the one to start with but it's fun to look at, that's for sure. Everything that follows in this post is for the people that enjoy looking at other calibrations to see how they were "built."

This is a wonderful cal to look at and try to work out what was happening. The custom cal previously posted is based on APYU which is an auto trans calibration for a 5.7. It's in a manual trans car. This calibration has been heavily modified from stock in the following manner:

VATS disabled
Manual trans bit enabled
EGR code 32 disabled
Fuel pump voltage code 54 disabled
Max spark advance increased by 4 degrees
Injector constant raised to 30 #/hr
idle speed adder for park/neutral set to zero
EGR disabled through temp
MAF sensor low flow code 33 threshold raised to 65 gm/sec
AIR disabled
Main spark advance table is completely modified and it's just all over the place. Under full load there's up to 7 degrees added advance at 4k rpm while at 3200 and 4800 there only an additional 4 degrees.
PE spark advance has been reduced in all cells with a maximum of 8 degrees taken out at 4800 rpm.
Knock recovery rate has been increased by up to 61% at 3200-4800 rpm
Max knock retard has not been changed from stock
%TPS to enable PE has been lowered by 45% above 4500 rpm
%TPS to enable PE when hot hasn't been adjusted
PE fuel has been increased by 6% at 56C and 3% at 80 and 104 deg C but nowhere else
PE fuel has been increased by 12.5% from 4000 to 5600 rpm
No changes to injector voltage correction tables
No changes to low PW correction tables
No changes to AE pulses
initial cranking fuel pw decreased
increases in desired idle vs temp but it's all over the map.
Fan temps lowered
MAF tables are scaled down as much as 5 gms/sec
Default MAF value vs %tps and rpm isn't adjusted

All other values I've looked at are stock. Anyone want to discuss why this calibration runs poorly when cool? For best results, use a compare to view main spark advance, PE enable and spark values, and PE fueling.

[ZEDRATED]

I was originally convinced that there isn`t enough spark advance when cold or in open loop but I`m not sure. The car does run reallt well in closed loop and I don`t wanna change that. This 6.14.12bin is actually the second bin that the tunner sent me to correct the problem with no luck but I found the car running good in closed loop so I used this one. Attached is the log for this bin. It was logged with TTS data master not tuner pro. The ADX file for the $6E is attached as well.

[ZEDRATED]

I forgot to mension that the car shuts off after initial cold start up unless I hold the throttle down a little. Maybe someone can adjust my stock bin to work with my set up.
I am going to post the stock bin and logs and the three custom buns and logs as well.
Thanks:

[ZEDRATED]

Original bin and log attached:

[ZEDRATED]

First custom bin made for me with moates adaptor from PCMFORLESS.COM and log:

[ZEDRATED]

Second and current bin I am using with log that the tunner tried to fix my problem with no success:

[ZEDRATED]

And here is the third bin and log that the tunner sent me with no success so he gave me a refund which I didn't want but he gave up and didn't want to deal with me any more and was convinced that I have a mechanical problem. I don't see it being mechanical as it doesn't do it with the stock chip.
With the stock chip the car runs ok in open and closed loop but really rich with black smoke coming out of the exhaust at WOT. The rpm's also drop quickly when shifting gear causing non-smooth shifts and they drop to about 500 rpm when the clutch is pressed then bounch back up. The car does not have as much power as opposed to the custom bin file.
I have tried adjusting the fuel pressure and I now have it at 44psi with key on engine off but it runs the same.
With the custom bin, the car runs really strong, rpm's drop smooth and car shifts nice. Engine seem's a little rice but nothing like with the stock bin and overall drivability with the car is nice ans smooth with lots of power, the problem is when the car is cold or in open loop it runs horrible.

Just to review: 86 Camaro Z28, originally a 305 tpi, auto.
Bought the car with: ZZ4 350, tpis mini (no egr), accel 30lb injectors (yellow top), GM hot cam, 1000 cfm throttle body, 160 degree thermostat with dual fans and flexalite adjustable controller (fans not computer controlled) I was told that the heads were ported, I added A/C (had it from factory), ram air ducts with K&N air filters.

I adjusted the tps properly along with the IAC valve.


I would love for the car to run the way it is in closed loop but with the same way it runs in open loop with the stock bin.


Any help here and all the support is greatly appreaciated.


Thanks,


Danny

[ZEDRATED]

Sorry, got caught up thinking and forgot to add the third bin the tunner tried with no succes of fixing the open loop problem, here it is:

[ZEDRATED]

1project2many, you are right, I had a closer look at the injectors and the say accel on them, man, you really know your stuff lol
thanks

[ZEDRATED]

oh, and incase you didn't read up top, I adjusted the pressure to 44 psi and then started the car and it was still running rough and shut off twice. Didn't take it for a drive but I'm sure from the way it is running that it'll be the same. The car also has the catalytic converter punched out and all air pump system was removed with delete pulley.
Thanks

[1project2many]

Danny....

First off, I need to apologize. I don't mean this in a bad way but I've realized you have only a little idea what's involved in this job. Generally the people here that post are interested in DIY tuning. I asked the questions I did thinking that you wanted to learn to make changes to your car as well. I was not offering to fix your calibration for you. I'm sorry if I came across that way.

With that said, there's a big difference between what you perceive and what I see. I don't like that custom calibration. I wouldn't have done it that way at all. That cal looks very much like a copy of a TPIS calibration and probably behaves very much like other TPIS cals I've run into. I looked through the log file and found large amounts of knock retard when you snap the throttle, large changes in injector pulsewidth at idle, slow response to throttle snap followed up by too much fuel, and that's just in the first 2 1/2 minutes of operation. Please don't use the original stock calibration for comparison either. It's just as wrong for your engine, although in many different ways.

If you'd like to learn to tune your own then you've probably got a big task ahead of you. But the rewards for doing it yourself are very high. I don't have any miniram calibrations here from '165 equipped vehicles. I did a very exhaustive search even bringing up cals from 12-13 years ago that required DOS based software to view. Again, sorry.