From earlier why things are differant...Originally Posted by 1project2many
From earlier why things are differant...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
I just tried the APYP Vette cal and switched the injector constant to 30lb and same thing.
The car won't even start.
I understand that but why won't the car even start using these 2 bins. Man this is getting frustrating.
Maybe I'll try an ARAP another day. That's enough for tonight. The wife is getting annoyed at me working in the car to much LOL.
FWIW It's too bad that guy at the injector place got your head spinning. I'm glad you've decided to make a few changes on your own. The easiest claim to disprove is that the injector constant doesn't do anything. Several other aspects of your conversation bother me as well but the point is that you shouldn't give up.
Since you did the actual burn process with previous tuner I'm sure you're familiar with it. But there are a few things to know / check when actually burning a chip. It's common for GM and others to use a "too big" chip to hold the program. It works but you have to know the trick. If there's no numbers on the outside, like many factory chips, the easiest way to find out what chip you have is to do a read and tell your programmer it's a "27512" chip and post the file here. If you're not programming the chip correctly then the ecm won't even look at your chip.
Next step after a burn is a "compare" or "read and compare." You burn the file to the chip then read it back and make sure it's exactly the same as the one you programmed. If there are any differences you have to figure out what's wrong. The chips used in these ecm's can be a little tough, but static shock will take them down in an instant and you might not realize it's happening. I don't know what kind of burner you're using but there should be a way to do a compare. Look for it and try it with every burn.
The ecm has a way to tell you it thinks the chip is bad before you even start the car. If the key's been off for at least 30 seconds you can turn it to "on" and watch the check engine light. The light should turn on for maybe a second, turn off for a second or two, then turn back on and stay on. If it stays on, stays off, or flashes rapidly, there's a problem. Pull the chip and figure it out. Remember the key has to be off for at least 30 seconds for this test to work.
Your file looks fine. There's a *lot* involved with making a chip. Sometimes changing a few values has unexpected results. Is your fuel pressure still turned down? If so you should turn it back up. I can't think of a reason why you shouldn't work with $6E although you've got enough going on that I wouldn't blame you if you use $32 for now. Just be sure to confirm the chip size and that the program you're burning is the one that ends up in the chip.
It may get worse! Some people actually enjoy this stuff.Maybe I'll try an ARAP another day. That's enough for tonight. The wife is getting annoyed at me working in the car to much LOL.
Last edited by 1project2many; 09-02-2012 at 02:36 PM.
I did exactly everything you just said and I always burn with 27512 and compare bin to buffer every time I burn a chip and in this case it showed a match each time. The only thing that I didn't know about was the check engine light actions. I will keep playing and now have a look at what is going on with the light.
Do you think we can get away with using the stock injector voltage corrections?
Thanks.
Your voltage offsets will work to get running, you will end up with issues in final tuning stages.
Using TunerPro and built in Moates burn software, if you have ever changed and offset and then click on 27FS512 they will no longer be correct, sometimes, some say they do. It's better if you know they are correct.
http://support.moates.net/programmin...using-offsets/
Bin file is smaller then chip size and needs to be in correct spot, this is the porpose of offsets.
Also knowing how check engine light operates will alert you do bad chip burn.
After making changes to bin file save as new name, for 2 reasons, one you have one to go back to and two it calculates checksum when saving.
For stock bin and your engine take out 20% fuel at idle and add 5-10 degrees spark advance to idle, this will help get it running closer with cam. Leave all else alone except known equiptment missing like EGR and see how it goes.
EDIT: This is EagleMark using my sons laptop.
It's that dang Kid Neutron again! Banned across the interwebz and now he's here. Who approved this guy, anyway??
It's also good to use a numbering sequence with the files and match them to handwritten notes documenting changes. Regarding corrections, go ahead and use what you've got but only because you're getting used to the basics of making changes. Chances are you'll get to a point when you want to replace your injectors for parts with known values.
I'm sure you'll end up with a good cal one way or another.
Has anyone looked at the specs on that cam? No wonder its running rich...sound familiar Mark? LOL!
D'oh!
Is it close to yours? He has way more going on then you did to start a tune...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
As a possible "short term" fix,
turn down the timers for entering closed loop. (these are available in SD systems so I'm guessing they exist in the MAF)
Don't get crazy with them but try cutting it in half and verify the O2 sensor is active at that time.
Bring your idle speed up to at least 800 rpm so it will run cold.
not sure what you have now.
Once in CL, go for a long drive (stay out of PE) and log your fuel corrections.
Go back to the fuel table and tweak them appropriatly.
Then do another drive and tweak.
Once the fueling is decent you can start playing with the spark tables to get more power.
(SA tables will then alter the fueling needs so you'll go back and do that again)
You'll need a wide band O2 sensor to then proceed to WOT tuning.
Without it you are flying pretty much blind if using the NB sensor.
This is how you get a car to run decent. No other magic way to it.
then you go and target small issues with tip in, AE, PE modes for best settings.
Welcome to the world of tuning insanity!
Jp
I have one here. I've tuned this cam with MAF and MAP systems. It's not so aggressive that it has to run rich at idle.Has anyone looked at the specs on that cam?
OP, there's a lot of good advice here but I'm sure it's overwhelming. Just take small steps and you'll be fine.
Its a bigger cam, compaired to mine...heres the zz4 cam :Steel Hydraulic Roller Cam (Lift: .474" Int/.510" Exh, Duration @ .050": 208° Int/221° Exh)LSA 112*
If my cam's low vac caused my issues, I am willing to bet he is fighting the same battle. Mine is runnung sweet, btw!
Last edited by jameslleary; 09-03-2012 at 06:40 PM.
Just took the car out for a drive today with the stock bin but just changed the injector constant's in single and double fire to 30. Not sure if it actually did anything as the car seems to run the same, very rich.
I wish I could some how get the car to run good in open loop with that 6.14.12 bin that pcmforless burnt for me as the car runs so nice with that bin once it's in closed loop. It doesn't smell as rich, the RPM's come down nice and slow when shifting gears for a nice smooth shift and the car has a lot of power.
Nothing at all possible that I can do to get that bin running good in open loop? Or when cold?
Thats not a hard cam to tune. Your's had other issues which were the large cap HEI and I think just age on motor... or age of owner?
Is it still doing OK?
EDIT: EagleMark again on kids laptop...
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