Just start the log after it's warmed up. Try to avoid things like pumping the throttle, or abrupt throttle positions.
Do a take off with say 25% throttle, then a take off with about 50%throttle, and so on.
Just start the log after it's warmed up. Try to avoid things like pumping the throttle, or abrupt throttle positions.
Do a take off with say 25% throttle, then a take off with about 50%throttle, and so on.
No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better
Got the log and tried going by the video but MegaLogViewer isn't working out for me. Can I make adjustments to the MAF using Trimalayzer or some other free tool?Originally Posted by ralmo94
**EDIT**
After watching his video all MegaLogViewer is used for is determining how much should the maf change. In the video he does this. (Long Term Trim 1 + Long Term Trim 2 + Short Term Trim 1 + Short Term Trim 2) / 2. That's not entirely how it's calculated but I feel this can be done in a spreadsheet if I knew how it was calculated? He then gets a percent difference and then uses that in Universal Patcher to make the changes. What is the math needed to do this?
Last edited by Dukenukemx; 10-31-2022 at 10:00 AM.
You can use trimalyzer, but you have to make the modifications by hand. The modify button doesn't work for maff.
No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better
That's fine, so long as it shows me the info that needs to change. In the video he pastes it by multiply % (-/+). How would I setup Trimalyzer to show me?
https://youtu.be/JugsOypaRAw?t=1522
Last edited by Dukenukemx; 10-31-2022 at 10:24 AM.
You just use it like normal. If it says -2 you are rich 2% so you need to remove 2%. 1 minus 2%= 0.98. So you multiply that by 0.98. if you need to add 2%, multiply by 1.02. Hope that makes sense.
You do need to add your MAF LAYOUT the same as you added your VE layout.
No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better
I think I get it. So I made the layout and used the Frequency for the MAF instead of the pressure and this is what I got. Going by this I assume I need to add? Looking at the log I don't see my MAF frequency getting very high. Does that mean I wasn't revving the engine high enough when driving?
Last edited by Dukenukemx; 10-31-2022 at 05:43 PM.
Yeah, looks like you are lean.
Higher Hz does come from higher airflow, higher throttle.
Make sure you filter your data
No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better
Did what you explained and it certainly got better. I might have logged a bit better but I think one more adjustment and it should fine. I assume that once that's done I undo the changes the guy showed in the video because I think that turns off the VE table? By the way, thanks a lot for the help. I don't see any other places online that had this much info on how to tune without needing HPTuners. I certainly learned a lot.
It's a lot easier to just copy the your new MAF curve to the bin file you had before you made all those changes then to go back and undo all those changes. If it were mine I would like to see those higher numbers at least 0 or maybe in the negative just to touch before I called it quits. You might add a little bit to the areas you didn't get to also and richen that up a little bit.
After you are dialed in and you turn the stock blended airflow back on you should be able check out your PE if you have a wideband.
You also would be ready for the LC patch. If you don't have a wide band, I would suggest just using the stock LC settings. If you do, you could experiment a little bit, but I would recommend starting with the stock settings as a base line.
By the way, did that spreadsheet help you with the tcc and shift table settings?
No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better
It's one of the things I wanna do before the final flash I do. I did look at it but not sure how it's suppose to help? There is mention of 2nd gear and TCC but that's mostly for towing. Couldn't I just set a TCC in 2nd, or is that not a great idea? One of the reasons I started looking into tuning the Vette was because I had Chuck from Corvettes of Westchester tune it and after 3 months in his possession I got it back with a bad transmission. The fluid was as black as motor oil which is my fault, but is kinda strange because I did change the filter and whatever fluid there was in the the pan 3 years prior, and it's not like I daily drove the car. Looking at the tune I can see he made some questionable changes which someone was able to revert since I have no idea what stock is, but then reverted because there was a notable performance difference with the exception of the TCC since he disabled it on 3rd and only worked on 4th past 56 Mph. I did get a new to me junk yard trans that had been rebuilt in the past, as I wasn't going to pay Chuck $4k for something that he could be responsible for. Plus I never changed a transmission before so it was a learning experiencing. So here you can see what is stock and what Chuck did, which was set everything to zero. Probably not healthy for the transmission. Not sure what's a good in between value to put there?
I understand your frustration, and that's kinda why I don't take any of my vehicles anywhere to have anything done, except for tire shops, and I wish I didn't have to do that.
Here is what I know about trans tuning in a nutshell.
4l60 & 80 e as I have read, are not meant to run full time without lockup like the older trans are. I remember reading something about there not being adi quite enough flow, maybe be different with aftermarket TC, maybe hogwash. What I do know from experience is trucks pulling a trailer up a grade in second gear skyrocket the trans temp. Tcc locked it's fine. I traded some work for a truck that a guy put 3 transmissions in, cause of that. He said it just wasn't big enough to pull his camper up grades. This applies little to cars, as they shouldn't be pulling a trailer up a grade,.
Shift schedules should be made where they don't have too easy of a downshift that you are constantly downshifting, same with. Tcc lock. .
I prefer a trans to work different than most people I think, I prefer to feel every gear and not have it unlocked, that being said most people like to not even know there is anything going on at all in the transmission. Normally they are programed to 123 quick shift, then of then when fast enough to not lug the engine tcc lock.
I prefer to have tcc lock in 2nd 3rd Also. If you do it just right you can set it up where when you take off up shift to 2nd, then tcc lock, and it feels like another gear, then third. Usually I prefer third locked pretty much all the time. Sometimes you are better off to be locked in 3rd then unlocked in oD. Lugging the trans isn't good either, especially with 4l60, you have to keep input shaft speed high enough for the pump to make pressure.
What the spreadsheet does is it allows you to see graphs of how your shifts and tcc lockup are working together. For instance you can have a shift schedule programed, and a tcc schedule and it always shifts before tcc lockup or unlock. Or your downshift could be a way that doesn't work well with the upshift,.
When I write a shift schedule I take the first upshift first and think about max speed I want an upshift to happen, usually a little before redline, then I usually set the guest three throttle settings about the same, but I usually keep it linear, then I think about what speed I want to shift at low throttle. Then I make the line in between somewhat straight. Then I think about max speed I want to kickdown to first, again I usually set the highest three pretty close to the same, then slowest speed I want to kick down to first with no throttle. Then I fill it in again to make somewhat of a straight line. Then I look at the graph and make sure 1 up and 2 down lines never cross. Then I do the same for the following gears. Keeping in mind cruising at different speeds, for instance I hate a 25 mph speed limit with tcc unlocked. You probably don't want a hair trigger down shift from od. Stock usually allows about half throttle before downshifting in cruise gear, it will depend on how much throttle you need to go up a slight incline vs flat level cruise, every car is somewhat different and most my experience is with trucks.
Once i get the shift schedule how I like it, I look at the graphs that show how they compare to each other and make sure there are no up down loops and everything looks good. Then I move on to tcc. Again I think about this speed it shifts in to second, when do I want it to lock. Then I look at the unlock and think about if I want it to unlock before down shift or not. Look at lock unlock graph to make sure they don't cross, then compare them to the shifts. All this takes a lot of time to be well thought out, and after you road test, you may find a schedule that looks good on the graphs doesn't preform the way you thought it would. It helps some times if you manually upshift while logging and have someone looking at the log to tell you the throttle position so you have a better idea of what the pedal feels like vs what the pcm sees, and make notes of what mph you shift at. Or think it I highly recommend if you make ANY changes to an otherwise stock schedule that you put the numbers in the spreadsheet and look at the graphs to make sure there isn't a problem. I have thought different times, I just do need to change this one shift point, but when I looked at it on the graph there was a problem. Also not sure if the Vette has a performance button stock or not, but you can make use of the performance shift / towhaul button and have a more performance shift schedule and an economic shift schedule,
No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better
I made more changes to the maf and turned back on the VE table, at least I think I did, and flashed it to the car. The performance isn't as good as it was with Chuck's tune. Maybe it's my imagination? I used to be able to break traction very easily with very little throttle and now it won't with all the throttle given. I haven't gone on the highway yet. I'm not sure if I made the right changes. Like for example "Dynamic Airflow Max RPM Threshold" was set to 200 but setting it to 200 disables VE I believe? Going by a stock 02 Corvette bin I found shows that it was suppose to be set at 4000 RPM, so I set it to that. But I have an auto not a 6 speed so a lot of the stuff I'm not entirely sure where it should be set? I did mess with the transmission by changing the D0801 upshift torque reduction Normal Mode to 10 instead of the default value that was there. Couple of 5's for 148 1->2 and 207 2->3. I figure that's better than 0 but also better performance than the stock values. The TCC lockup for 3rd gear was set to 30 Mph instead of 35. Also Universal patcher wouldn't patch Lean Cruize as it says it isn't compatible, even though I've applied it in the past and it didn't complain. Maybe because I used a XDF for Universal Patcher where I didn't need to?
I'm not sure if everything is done right at this point. Maybe Chuck had a reason for running it so rich? It was so rich that I would suffocate going near the exhaust, where as now the smell is actually kinda sweet.
That's why I said you should just copy your new MAF curve to your previous bin. Makes sure something isn't left where we don't need or want it.
There is no reason to run pig Rich all the time the only time you need to run rich is underpower enrichment and possibly during warm up. Did you ever get a wide band? Edit the power enrichment delay settings and enable settings to get you in power enrichment sooner.
At this point I would recommend tasting your new math curve and your new ve table and your injector setting into the stock bin and starting from there since you have the stock been available what we want is for the blended airflow mode and everything to work pretty much as stock does only calibrated for your new hardware changes that's what I would recommend doing anyway
No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better
Just remembered you said that was for a 6-speed don't use that six-speed file unless you said swap it for automatic.
No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better
That's a good idea.
Now that you mention Power enrichment, that was one of the settings the YouTube video had me change to disable VE by setting PE Normal Mode Enable to 90. Wasn't sure if I should go back to Chucks settings, so I went with the stock settings. That might have been a mistake. %TPS is Throttle Position Sensor? 64% might be a lot more throttle than I'd like. Also PE Delay Bypass RPM was set to 5000 RPM to disable VE but Chuck and stock both use 2200 RPM. Chuck also has "B0120 - Dynamic Airflow Max RPM Threshold" set to 100 while the video wanted it set to 200, and stock bin is set to 4000 RPM. I had it set to 4000 after the MAF tune was done. EGR system Enable was disabled in chucks tune and I kept it disabled. PE Delay Bypass Delta RPM is set to -300 by Chuck and the 6speed bin shows 6250. I left it -300. Look around I see PE Commanded Fuel is set to 12.55 by Chuck but the 6speed bin shows 0.05. I didn't change that. There's a bunch of stuff that's different.There is no reason to run pig Rich all the time the only time you need to run rich is underpower enrichment and possibly during warm up.
Not yet. Still wondering what to get for a wide band.Did you ever get a wide band?
Don't have the stock bin. I have Chucks tune. He didn't give me a copy of the original bin. That's why I have the 6speed bin because that's what I could find.At this point I would recommend tasting your new math curve and your new ve table and your injector setting into the stock bin and starting from there since you have the stock been available what we want is for the blended airflow mode and everything to work pretty much as stock does only calibrated for your new hardware changes that's what I would recommend doing anyway
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