Guy here in Michigan has one of those. 6 with a 3 on tree. He swapped the 6 for a really healthy 327. I don't remember his times but with slicks he carries the fronts through second. Fun watching him row a column shifter
Guy here in Michigan has one of those. 6 with a 3 on tree. He swapped the 6 for a really healthy 327. I don't remember his times but with slicks he carries the fronts through second. Fun watching him row a column shifter
My 66 short GMC van did 17 flat in the quarter with six, three-speed stick and one barrel carb!.....These vans are a very stout but lightweight unibody with boxed sheet-metal frame rails spot welded to the bottom....
Dodge and Chevy vans were available in 90 and 108 inch wheelbases with the Econoline Fords all being 90 inch...
Stock configuration has the balancer over the front axle, but with some fab work you can put the engine anywhere you like... There are even some with the engine out back and running a v-drive....Mine has an 18 inch setback...
So, slightly different test today....
From cold, I idled the engine in gear about 20 minutes to reach 190 where the fan comes on and cools to 174 in about three minutes when the fan shuts off... another two minutes and it continues down to 169 and starts climbing again....
At this point I brought the rpm up to 1500 in gear against the brakes and it got back to 190 in about 4 minutes and another 5 minutes to 220 at which time I let it go back to idle and it kept rising to 228 over the next 4 minutes and didn't drop at all in ten minutes and then to 220 in another 10 after I put it in neutral.... After that, it never dropped any temp as long as it ran.... The fan is on automatically above 190....
What I'm taking from this is that I'm short on cooling capacity and even though I intend to flush the system and try again, I believe that I'll get no improvement until I add overall cooling core capacity......
I'm still not certain if pulling back the timing mechanically (unlinked) is honored or ignored by the ECM when it is re-linked.....
You already knew where I was going with this...Originally Posted by AzDon
I used to argue that point on other forums but there's been a lot of convincing argument that supports moving the coolant quicker through the passages only aids in cooling.
Have you verified coolant flow and make sure you don't have any collapsing radiator hoses.
I did check out your AWESOME build thread int post #14 to maybe get a clue...thinking perhaps the way the radiator sits in the van, it looks like the incoming air from the grill could possibly go around the radiator and not through it...but now you're saying this is happening while sitting there at idle???
Yeah as it was already discussed^^^if you're sitting there at idle 17 degrees that's what the PCM is adding to your initial of 0. Change the initial to 2 degrees, your datalog would report 17 but with the 2 degree initial it would actually be 19.
The entire drivetrain and ECM came out of a wagon that was identical to my daily driver that was crashed but drivable and it didn't overheat..... I run my daily driver with a gutted thermostat here in 115 degree weather and a locked fan clutch blowing ice cubes from the A/C and it rarely runs above 160 degrees....This has not been the first vehicle I have anecdotally proven cooler running without the t-stat, but it is the first with fuel injection....
I'm dreadfully old-school, so I can only see timing with a timing light, but I do have one that I can advance...I'll try knocking back the timing a couple of degrees and a good flush before pursuing extra coolers, but I think that's where this is going...
UPDATE:
So without disconnecting the base timing plug I timed the 17 degrees back to 11 degrees (Taking it to eleven!... Spinal Tap reference)
I also hooked a couple of ball valves and garden hoses into the heater hose system and flushed several times during and between about six heating cycles...The water runs clear, but it doesn't appear that either of these chores has changed anything...
I have a 30 stacked plate trans cooler ( 10"x10") ordered that I will put an electric fan on and I'm also going to order two heater cores (6x8 each) to add extra coolant/cooling capacity.... There is tons of space underneath for as many heater cores as it takes to get a large enough percentage of the coolant outside of the engine being cooled...
Last edited by AzDon; 10-04-2022 at 11:39 PM.
stop bringing the RPM up with the transmission in gear and brake applied. this is VERY hard on the transmission. you should not do this for more than a few seconds as oil temp will skyrocket. i use a spill free kit when bleeding to check for bubbles. your post is confusing do you have an electric fan or clutch fan or both? i have never used but have not heard good things about the chinese alunminum rads from my local radiator guy. mainly longevity and that they leak. next step might be pulling rad and getting it flow tested. after basics like air flow through rad, fan rotation (check belt routing you can make the fan/pump run backwards!), is the pump pumping and trapped air it is a classic symptom of bad headgasket.
as far as timing goes, if this is a stock engine & ecm, set the timing to 0* with EST disconnected and leave it alone. your issue is not timing...
EDIT: If it were mine I would get the original rad recore'd or find the correct rad for it. also a clutch fan will cool better than an electric fan, full stop.
Last edited by tayto; 10-07-2022 at 06:15 PM.
The radiator is mounted 18" ahead of the engine and lower with a shrouded stock electric fan from an 85 z28... I have a 32lb cap on the radiator and a 16lb cap on the t-stat housing fill.......I also have an unshrouded GM 7-blade fan mounted to the water pump with a locked fan clutch to help move air through the box.... Both fans are in the correct orientation to move air rearward...
The water pump is also the correct unit for serpentine...
I fully agree with you regarding belt driven fans moving more air.....The factory seven blade fans have the power to blow the hood off if you lock the fan clutch....
I was not aware that pulling against the brakes was any harder on the trans than driving.... thanks for the warning!
You are using the converter as a load absorber at that point, superheating the fluid in it.
I didn't realize that I was causing more heat than driving it around......
I did the flush, retarded timing 6 degrees, and locked fan clutch since last driving it around......
The initial timing is at 11 degrees with the EST connected (likely 6ATDC unplugged)
So I guess it's time for another test drive...
Last edited by AzDon; 10-13-2022 at 11:00 PM.
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