PCM 16196396 Range selector 4L60E?

[tayto]

i get mine done locally, about $120 Canadian. I would checkout https://www.witchhunter.com/ i dealt with them years ago before a local place got a flow machine. i agree with ralmo, get it running
right in open loop then move on to closed loop. if you have a cat, i usually run a cat delete pipe until you get fuel table sorted out, then reinstall once closed loop. this is cheaper than burning a cat out IMO.

[Rob 689]

If you want to run closed loop, you should look at a stock unmodified bin more minimum and maximum.

You are supposed to be able to reset fuel trims with a command from the aldl, but I never could find enough information on it for to follow so I unhook the battery.
I actually find trimalyzer more accurate than commercial products. I use it on OBD2 also. The more information you have the better picture you can get of how the engine is running on an average. That's why I think it's important to be able to combine logs. A couple bad samples don't cause you to make a mistake that way.

It can read off your wide band in closed loop as well, if you choose arbitrary input it will display what the average AFR is if you select the wbO2 form your main trim. If closed loop though all this does is tell you how Accurate your fuel trims are.

Oh okay. Thank you for the info. I played around yesterday on just the blm and im concerned about my injectors and i pulled a ride on lawn mower on a small utility trailer and the truck aint ready. I need the wideband thats in transit in the mail too.

In the mean time any idea were to even start with the timing parameters and the timing tables. Gets alot of knock counts and goes into knock retard with barely any throttle when pulling that small trailer and still does without while under light to medium load like getting on the highway but once your there it’s kinda okay but itll still do it you try to pass someone

[Rob 689]

i get mine done locally, about $120 Canadian. I would checkout https://www.witchhunter.com/ i dealt with them years ago before a local place got a flow machine. i agree with ralmo, get it running
right in open loop then move on to closed loop. if you have a cat, i usually run a cat delete pipe until you get fuel table sorted out, then reinstall once closed loop. this is cheaper than burning a cat out IMO.

Okay thank you. So i thought adjusting the ve tables while in closed loop till the blms dont adjust anymore would make open loop also be right? Im probably mistaken right? So is it always desirable to get open loop dialed in? How do you differentiate in the bin? Like wont i just be un doing my open loop work if i start there and then keep tuning in closed loop? For some reason my blms are stuck between 126 and 128 and idk why but it seems to be not far off it is pretty much a stock motor if it does have anything in it as far as a cam its not much

[ralmo94]

For timing usually you should keep it at stock or a little less Maybe 2 deg, until you get your VE closer. Any knock can throw off your samples, as can over advanced timing without knock. Once you get ve dialed in, then you can work on timing, then you fine tune your VE with the new table. Unless you have vortec heads swapped on, then you can use a stock vortec timing map.

Also be advised that unless you have configured your tune for open loop, you can't just edit according to afr, as the target afr for open loop is not all the same. And also I had issues when I went open loop with blms coming back. These issues I solved, and that's why I posted the files I did in the how to article, so someone else can just easily start with an open loop file.

You can tune with blms, that's what trimalyzer was designed for. I would start with stock bin though, and make sure your injector constant matches your fuel pressure. I don't remember seeing your mods posted, I might have missed it though.

[Rob 689]

For timing usually you should keep it at stock or a little less Maybe 2 deg, until you get your VE closer. Any knock can throw off your samples, as can over advanced timing without knock. Once you get ve dialed in, then you can work on timing, then you fine tune your VE with the new table. Unless you have vortec heads swapped on, then you can use a stock vortec timing map.

Also be advised that unless you have configured your tune for open loop, you can't just edit according to afr, as the target afr for open loop is not all the same. And also I had issues when I went open loop with blms coming back. These issues I solved, and that's why I posted the files I did in the how to article, so someone else can just easily start with an open loop file.

You can tune with blms, that's what trimalyzer was designed for. I would start with stock bin though, and make sure your injector constant matches your fuel pressure. I don't remember seeing your mods posted, I might have missed it though.

As far as i know the motor is stock but im told by the kid i bought it from it had a cam in it idk. I put headers on it and upgraded to the three wire heated o2 sensor. EGR delete and 2 inch y pipe into 3 inch all the way out the behind the axle. Obviously the pcm swap and now im trying to tune that in so itll run right again. I plan on continuing to mod the truck and tune it in again every time its a slow budget build. itll eventually get a fresh stock bottom end with vortecs and a cam. Possibly gonna add a small turbo set up waay down the road but idk if ill ever even take it that far. if the vortecs are good enough. ill probably add an intake after i get this pcm figured out i found one that i can scalp out of a buddys yard thats pre tbi i think? its got what apears to be the same intake bolt pattern so i think itll fit. tbi adapter plate and presto.

The bin i have ill post i got it from another member on the forum. I have a manual truck and theres no stock bin files for a small block with a stick not ones compatible with this computer anyways. Thats why its wonky in the first place i dont think the file is completely stock. He did give me two files, the first never worked cus i goofed the plug wires during the swap when i was getting into the harness. I did it by memory late one night and accidentally went around the distrubutor backwards then pulled my hair out backtracking my steps thinking it was the pcm swap until it woke me up one night when i realized it in my sleep somehow lol. anyways i never tried the other file after it ran.

Do you have a stock 350 file for a manual? or can someone just tell me how to make an auto file a manual file i pulled the file off the original memcal from the pcm that ran the original truck it was in which was a 94 suburban k1500 and my truck is a 94 pickup k1500 both 350 tbis. theoretically i should be able to just convert the original bin and just run that till i get more mods. that would probably be the easiest and cleanest way to do it. i just dont know what im doing entirely in the bin yet. im learning more and more every time i mess with it and im covering ground decently but im just not all the way learned up yet lol ive never tuned anything or done anything this deep yet. Im a mechanic and ive messed with hopped up carbed shit but now i want to do my own efi.

I am assuming that it takes more than just checking a few flags right? although i just looked through the original suburban bin and it seems that it has shift light tables so it should actually work fine right? maybe some iac adjustment? maybe that route would be easier? maybe i should just try it?

[Rob 689]

titles of files should be self explanatory. Feel free to ask for clarification.

[Rob 689]

tuner pro files i am using. Also thanks a ton in advance to anyone who helps out. And thanks a ton to everyone so far its great to have some helpful knowledge along and experience along the way in the build.



crap almost forgot the suburban bin is in $0E not $0D

[Rob 689]

For timing usually you should keep it at stock or a little less Maybe 2 deg, until you get your VE closer. Any knock can throw off your samples, as can over advanced timing without knock. Once you get ve dialed in, then you can work on timing, then you fine tune your VE with the new table. Unless you have vortec heads swapped on, then you can use a stock vortec timing map.

Also be advised that unless you have configured your tune for open loop, you can't just edit according to afr, as the target afr for open loop is not all the same. And also I had issues when I went open loop with blms coming back. These issues I solved, and that's why I posted the files I did in the how to article, so someone else can just easily start with an open loop file.

You can tune with blms, that's what trimalyzer was designed for. I would start with stock bin though, and make sure your injector constant matches your fuel pressure. I don't remember seeing your mods posted, I might have missed it though.

What makes a bin configured for open loop?

[ralmo94]

There was a lot of things I changed for open loop to work correctly, min max temps blm update, ect.
I have an $od file modded for manual around some where. You should be able to run either $od or $OE Are you running stock fuel pressure? 12psi. That should be addressed before going in to the ve. O'Reilly's has a fuel pressure gauge you can borrow with a deposit that screws inline at the TBi.

[ralmo94]

Also while I'm thinking about it, where did you put the sensor grounds? Not on the thermostat housing I hope.
3 wire O2 is great the heater helps. But it grounds through the exhaust system, a 4 wire can be tied right to the pcm pin for O2 low.

Also parts store O2 sensor are widely reported to be either lean or rich, Bosch has the worst reputation for this. There is a very old thread on here about this. You Could be better of getting one out of a low mileage car at the yard, once you have the wideband you can confirm.

[Rob 689]

Also while I'm thinking about it, where did you put the sensor grounds? Not on the thermostat housing I hope.
3 wire O2 is great the heater helps. But it grounds through the exhaust system, a 4 wire can be tied right to the pcm pin for O2 low.

Also parts store O2 sensor are widely reported to be either lean or rich, Bosch has the worst reputation for this. There is a very old thread on here about this. You Could be better of getting one out of a low mileage car at the yard, once you have the wideband you can confirm.

I dont see why grounding on the thermostat housing would be a problem the factory thought it was good enough for the ecm. I used the original single wire plug and i cut the other end off the old o2 and i used some two terminal plugs out of a harness laying around to run the heater circuit and i powered it off the old power and ground left over from removing the esc during the pcm swap. so now the sensor has plugs and everything and loomed wire and looks OE.

Also interesting. i did install a bosch sensor.... bosh also makes the wideband sensors too tho so are those no good too? Ill look for the thread.

[Rob 689]

There was a lot of things I changed for open loop to work correctly, min max temps blm update, ect.
I have an $od file modded for manual around some where. You should be able to run either $od or $OE Are you running stock fuel pressure? 12psi. That should be addressed before going in to the ve. O'Reilly's has a fuel pressure gauge you can borrow with a deposit that screws inline at the TBi.

I have all the fuel guages already. my pressure is 13.5 last time i checked but i did just drop in a brand new pump and sender assembly as my sender was rusty and sprung a pin hole leak in the hard line on the feed side. So i should check it again i probably will this weekend its got a flat bed that needs re decked this weekend.

I appreciate the help with the file.

How complicated is it to convert an auto file to a manual one?

[ralmo94]

The factory did ground on the thermostat, but some vehicles that had issues got bought back under a buy back program, and that was one of the things that got changed. Electrically speaking that is one of the worst places to have a sensor lo signal. Should be grounded on either the block or the head to get a good clean signal. Your Bosch might be good or might not. Only way to tell is when the integrator or stft, is satisfied with making almost no adjustments what the afr is. Bosch aftermarket narrow band seem to have the worst reputation that I have read on numerous forums, but that doesn't mean they are all bad.


There were lots and lots of things changed to make that bin manual. Difficult.... I wouldn't say that, time consuming yes.
If you download the stock file and load in in the compare bin on tuner pro you can click tools > difference finder and see how many things are changed from stock.

[ralmo94]

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...BPW-Calculator

[Rob 689]

The factory did ground on the thermostat, but some vehicles that had issues got bought back under a buy back program, and that was one of the things that got changed. Electrically speaking that is one of the worst places to have a sensor lo signal. Should be grounded on either the block or the head to get a good clean signal. Your Bosch might be good or might not. Only way to tell is when the integrator or stft, is satisfied with making almost no adjustments what the afr is. Bosch aftermarket narrow band seem to have the worst reputation that I have read on numerous forums, but that doesn't mean they are all bad.


There were lots and lots of things changed to make that bin manual. Difficult.... I wouldn't say that, time consuming yes.
If you download the stock file and load in in the compare bin on tuner pro you can click tools > difference finder and see how many things are changed from stock.

Huh i didnt know that about the buy backs. I suppose your right i did already clean my bolts and bolt holes for those grounds and everything. New eyelets. Every other rig known to man grounds to the heads or block and thats where the ground straps go it is weird now that you point it out.

Nice I didn’t realize tunerpro had that function. I thought you had to manually look at all the tables and everything. I found the spot were yoj load the compare bin and when you go through the parameters it shows but it would be nice to not have to go through every dam one and then close the window click the next etc. lol