Hey everyone I was just curious is it possible to run closed loop with the 161395 pcm? I know the behavior and voltage ranges are different but I was curious if it were possible. Assuming it’s not how do I tap the wide band into the egr input like people talk about doing? Software changes?
PCM 16196395?
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...Information-OE
No...Originally Posted by Rob 689
If we are on the same page . . . definition file $OE . . . PCM 16196395 . . . see screen shot below:
I've successfully data logged AFR's closed loop for Definitions $OD, $E6, $OE, and $31 using TWO O2 sensors in the exhaust system (factory narrow band and aftermarket ARF tool like the AEM 30-4110).
I've been challenged (likely other tuners too) with the INACCRACY of Simulated Narrow Band, so I use TWO O2 sensors to data log AFR information.
I use AFR's for tuning only, because engine modifications don't provide optimal performance without tuning.
There's considerable debate about the accuracy of Open Loop AFR Tuning vs. Closed Loop AFR Tuning.
The WBO2 Tuning spreadsheet I posted here: http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...ng-Spreadsheet is for Closed Loop Tuning.
$OE.jpg
Thank you for the help. Yes that is the correct pcm. I actually haven’t determined what bin and mask I’ll use. There’s like four main options right? What are the differences? Why do so many masks even exist and on a side note the hex decimal and prom write locations etc are incredibly confusing the 000FFF whatever stuff. I’m a fast learner I just can’t find any info that explains everything what’s going on. Is $0E my best option? I read the text in that screen shot and it sounds easy enough. I’m assuming that screen shot is of the definition file that is the software “hack”? Do the parameters in the tree change with the mask id? I’ve only played with the craptastic one in the truck so far and it’s pretty basics (I’m away for work at the moment I can’t wait to get back and swap the new pcm in, already ordered more goodies from moates and stuff)
Yeah sorry typo. Thank you. The $0E hack at the bottom post in the link what are all the things added or changed in the hack?
Last edited by Rob 689; 08-29-2022 at 07:55 AM.
$E6 & $OD are for the 4L60E transmission.
$31 & $OE are for the 4L80E transmission.
$OE was also used for Manual Transmission. (posted in this tread)
Definitions $E6, $OD, $OE, and $31 are 64K binary chip files or more commonly called .bin file. The hexadecimal addressing for a 64K chip is address 000000 ~ 00FFFF.
The SST 27SF512 is a 64K chip and a very popular chip for definitions $E6, $OD, $OE, and $31 C2 SST 27SF512 Chip [C2] - $10.00 : Moates.Net
The factory chip for definitions $E6, $OD, $OE, and $31 are EPROMs that require an Ultraviolet Light to erase.
The SST 27SF512 chips are EEPROMs, which can be erased electronically.
Thank you I didn’t know the different masks went with the different transmissions. That makes $0E my obvious choice as I have a manual and if I ever did go auto it would also be 4L80 anyways. The chip addressing ive found a thread here on gear head that tells you what to put into tuner pro for whatever chip your burning. I was mainly more curious about hex editor? I know I’m not even close to ready to mess with any of that but I’ve read some stuff about people messing with things for whatever reason like software changes but they talk about writing bits to “addresses” in the chip and they are 000s and FFs etc just like when burning chips and I was reading one time about how the chip burning works for using the full size chip to write say like only 4K bins and how you just write to the beginning gm of the chip and so on and it read like it should be obvious but how does the ordering of the addresses work I guess is what I was asking
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...Flash-and-Burn
Sorry the “as you can see the buffer gets wrote to the ‘end’ of the chip” not the beginning like I said in my previous post sorry. But anyways I totally figured out how to burn chips don’t need help there I’m just confused as to how the hell do you decipher the beginning and end?! Etc.
Definition files (.xdf) like Advanced $0E TP5 v250.xdf are actually a Hexadecimal Editors that identify parameters and tables. Most, if not all, of the tuning can be accomplished with Definition files (.xdf) like Advanced $0E TP5 v250.xdf The most common parameters updated or modified for tuning are Fuel tables and Spark Tables, similar to changing jets in a carburetor and changing distributor parts like weights, springs, and vacuum advance canisters.
Usually the Moates.net Burn2 will automatically set the 64K 27SF512 Chip Addressing 000000 ~ 00FFFF and the Buffer Addressing 000000 ~ 00FFFF.
Because $OE is a 64K .bin file, the Burn2 does not required offset programming for the 27SF512.
Moates.net Burn2
http://www.moates.net/burn2-chip-pro....html?cPath=94
http://static.moates.net/manuals/FlashAndBurn.pdf
Ahh I see what people mean when they say hex editor. What even is hex do you know a good source we’re I can do some more reading? Oh and and again thanks a ton for the reply’s and the help. Yeah I got a burn 2 and all that. I got my feet wet a little already one the crap ecm that’s in the truck it’s on a 27sf512 but stock bin still. It was my test subject for learning purposes. My first big task now is this pcm swap to the better one. I got all the moates memory adapter and zif socket etc already ordered and an AEM wide band with the bosh sensor with the kit and the gauge has an analog output for data logging. Kit comes with a harness and weld in o2 bung. And I have headers where is ideal placement? also sensor is 5 wire. Also should I install on same bank as factory narrow band or go to passenger side bank with my new sensor? Also my data logging that I’ve done historyogram blm numbers were average as low as like 90 and shit and higher up in the rpm range I get a lot of 130 and even 140s. I played little and cleaned it up a decent bit but it’s still a bit rough and I’m unsure. Having the AFR guage will be reassuring and I will be tackling the spreadsheet tuning method it seems like the logical path to success and a nice learning aid right? Also thanks again a ton for the help any thing else I might need? Oh and I got spare chips coming now too I can see how that could be nice. Oh and I’m goi g to upgrade my factory narrow band to the heated 3 wire as well for more accurate idling BLM logging and I noticed pulling over and shutting down to change the tune was really inconvenient cus the sensor would cool like seemed like right away or at least I had no clue if it was accurate till the mv got back up to like 8~9 hundred after a couple minutes of cruising. Looking forward to the wide band and the tuning of the new pcm
Also how do I know it’s even accurate even after extended cruise with the headers and all? Should I wrap the headers?
Unless you want the headers to corrode, COAT the headers if you can afford it.
WRAP EVERYTHING ELSE. Anything you can't wrap, get more heat shielding in there.
THEY are NOT Lying to You.
You are NOT Even Lying to Yourself.
You ARE Being Lied to ... by Your SELF.
The Last Psychiatrist, aka ... Alone ...
Coat them with what? Just ceramic header paint? The vht crap in a can?
I think the next step is to post a data log, and start tuning.
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