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Thread: Baffleing A Tank Mounted Pump

  1. #1
    Carb and Points!
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    Baffleing A Tank Mounted Pump

    I have searched and searched for information on just what to do to create necessary baffling in a fuel tank for the use of a tank mounted fuel pump.

    I have found nothing

    This is what I believe is needed:
    1. The baffle needs to hold about 3 seconds use of fuel that would be used in an all out full acceleration.
    2. The baffle should employ a design that lets fuel into the baffle but not out, at least not quickly. I am thinking of thin rubber sheets / flappers that work to cover a hole in the baffle on the inside so that fuel presses on the flapper to seal the baffle opening shut.
    3. The openings on the baffle need to be close to the bottom so that when the tank is really low on fuel, fuel can enter the baffle with a minimum amount of movement.
    4. The tank needs a very low spot for the baffle to sit in so that when the vehicle is not moving, fuel is readily available, even when the vehicle is on an incline (like a steep driveway).

    Have I covered all of the bases??
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Fuel Injected!
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    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...l-Pump-Upgrade

    Could have sworn there was a write up using a used Lucas quart bottle floating around as well.
    Last edited by stew86MCSS396; 07-01-2022 at 06:41 AM.

  3. #3
    Fuel Injected!
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    Quote Originally Posted by MHN View Post
    I have searched and searched for information on just what to do to create necessary baffling in a fuel tank for the use of a tank mounted fuel pump...

    " I am thinking of thin rubber sheets"

    Have I covered all of the bases??
    Thanks
    You might add to the list: materials.
    I have had an experience where an open wheel race car was running out of fuel in corners. In my case, it was not the tank but an issue with the float (Carb not injection). I modified the float and needed to add some material and as well glue to put it all back together. Everything I tried made of any sort of rubber or plastic melted and turned to sludge after a short time. My solution was thin brass and solder. I know neoprene doesn't react with gas but it is hard to work with. Most rubbers will degrade and foul your pump/filters/injectors. It is my guess that you might want to use thin sheets of metal in place of rubber. Accept that there will be leaks but that the loss will not be significant over the three seconds.
    Probably someone here knows more about what can be used.

    -Tom

  4. #4
    Fuel Injected! Terminal_Crazy's Avatar
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    If you are running a return style system like the LT1 Camaro the return feeds back into the baffled section keeping it full and presumably keeps the pump submerged/cooled in an empty fuel tank.


    Mitch
    '95 Z28 M6 -Just the odd mod.
    '80 350 A3 C3 Corvette - recent addition.

  5. #5
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    Some of the factory tanks from the '80s use a square or rectangle "bucket" that's roughly 4" X 4" X 2". I created one that was about 3" X 3" X 2" to go inside the in-cab tank in my '57. It helped prevent issues when the tank was below 1/2 full.

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