could recalibrate the conversion table to match the jeep sensor.
i may be a machinist, but if i can avoid potentially scrapping good parts, i avoid it.
as long as you could hold the two sensors in identical conditions(let's say throw them in a pot of water of something?), then just need to get the sensors around to a calibration point(there are 17), see what temperature the GM sensor is showing, then switch to the Jeep sensor and move the value at that portion of the table around until it matches what the GM sensor was showing. maybe switch back and forth again to confirm it's still the same.
obviously, this is done much easier with an emulator or at least a bank switch.
Why has no one suggested drilling the intake for the larger thread? That's what I do in a situation like this.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
Probably to avoid removing the intake, it's a running vehicle... but yes that is a simple solution.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
I've drilled intakes on vehicles for this, you just have to be careful, use rags, some grease, a vacuum and your head.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
Wow, that can be done?
I would have no clue how to do it. Only problem I see, is finding a controlled environment to put the sensors in to get proper readings from them. Would the ADX also have to be changed?
I would also rather mod a $18 sensor than the intake on my jeep. So no drilling it. I might give what mark said a try, though I dont have any type of drill that will hold this thing.
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
You don't have to mount the MAT in the manifold. 3800, 3100s and many others have it in the snorkel. Fiero's have it in the air filter can (and GM still calls it a MAT sensor). Leave your stock MAT where it is and add your new one in your air filter housing.
The ends of the sensors apparently vary as well.
Three wire is a solid piece of brass, at least what I tried on.
Two wire CTS with steel body had a hollow "nose", which the chuck crushed.
I had the brass CTS turned on a lathe, so no idea what the nose is on it.
My *guess* is that if they turn the body from brass, there is no reason to remove any more metal than necessary at the tip. When they used a brass tube insert (steel body) they used the thinnest possible.
Only chucked two up like this, so if the money isn't really a concern, you could try it and see. As thin as the one I crushed was, light pressure with pliers would have been enough to know if it was solid or not.
"Frankentruck" is a "1985" K5, TPI 350 '165/6E (Vortec Heads, SDPC2000 base, roller cam, headers), 32 Spline SM465, 205 w/VSS, 10b/14SF, 3.42's and 33" tires. Soon to be boxed frame, '87 sheetmetal, and TPI w/ '727
Took the mat and chucked it up in my drill clamping onto the "cage" around the element, it held it pretty good. Worked on it for quite a long time with a file and got it turned down to where I thought it was enough to thread. Went to fastenal and picked up a die and started threading it. Got about halfway and couldnt go any more. I didnt turn it down enough near up next to the hex part. So I go to chuck it back up and the cage comes off. When I cut the threads, it went through the very tip and cut off the tip that was crimped to hold on the cage. So I cant hold this one any more with the drill. Guess I will keep it for my test harness, and go pick up another one and start again. Dont guess the cage is 100% required to use the sensor, if the new one breaks off too. It would be nice though if I could find someone with some type of temp control box or something simillar and just get the data to use the jeep sensor like robert suggested. Anyone know of a place or person that could do this?
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
Seriously, just drill the intake and thread it for the larger thread, you will save yourself lots of headache doing so.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
I've never tried that but I don't think it'd be as hard as you think... shop manual would probably have the info to test sensor, voltage, ohms whatever to 256 count... just thinking out loud...It would be nice though if I could find someone with some type of temp control box or something simillar and just get the data to use the jeep sensor like robert suggested. Anyone know of a place or person that could do this?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
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