Wow, that can be done?Originally Posted by RobertISaar
I would have no clue how to do it. Only problem I see, is finding a controlled environment to put the sensors in to get proper readings from them. Would the ADX also have to be changed?
I would also rather mod a $18 sensor than the intake on my jeep. So no drilling it. I might give what mark said a try, though I dont have any type of drill that will hold this thing.
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
if the datastream pushes out a raw A/D value, then yes, it would need changed. if the normalized value comes out, then it's already accounted for in the PCM.
1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E
Yeah I did a coolant temp which was easy to chuck, just like a drill. A file makes quick work of taking off brass. NPT is an easy to die/tap, just file on a slight angle. Are those senosr ends to flimsy to chuck?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
You don't have to mount the MAT in the manifold. 3800, 3100s and many others have it in the snorkel. Fiero's have it in the air filter can (and GM still calls it a MAT sensor). Leave your stock MAT where it is and add your new one in your air filter housing.
The ends of the sensors apparently vary as well.
Three wire is a solid piece of brass, at least what I tried on.
Two wire CTS with steel body had a hollow "nose", which the chuck crushed.
I had the brass CTS turned on a lathe, so no idea what the nose is on it.
My *guess* is that if they turn the body from brass, there is no reason to remove any more metal than necessary at the tip. When they used a brass tube insert (steel body) they used the thinnest possible.
Only chucked two up like this, so if the money isn't really a concern, you could try it and see. As thin as the one I crushed was, light pressure with pliers would have been enough to know if it was solid or not.
"Frankentruck" is a "1985" K5, TPI 350 '165/6E (Vortec Heads, SDPC2000 base, roller cam, headers), 32 Spline SM465, 205 w/VSS, 10b/14SF, 3.42's and 33" tires. Soon to be boxed frame, '87 sheetmetal, and TPI w/ '727
Took the mat and chucked it up in my drill clamping onto the "cage" around the element, it held it pretty good. Worked on it for quite a long time with a file and got it turned down to where I thought it was enough to thread. Went to fastenal and picked up a die and started threading it. Got about halfway and couldnt go any more. I didnt turn it down enough near up next to the hex part. So I go to chuck it back up and the cage comes off. When I cut the threads, it went through the very tip and cut off the tip that was crimped to hold on the cage. So I cant hold this one any more with the drill. Guess I will keep it for my test harness, and go pick up another one and start again. Dont guess the cage is 100% required to use the sensor, if the new one breaks off too. It would be nice though if I could find someone with some type of temp control box or something simillar and just get the data to use the jeep sensor like robert suggested. Anyone know of a place or person that could do this?
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
Seriously, just drill the intake and thread it for the larger thread, you will save yourself lots of headache doing so.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
I've never tried that but I don't think it'd be as hard as you think... shop manual would probably have the info to test sensor, voltage, ohms whatever to 256 count... just thinking out loud...It would be nice though if I could find someone with some type of temp control box or something simillar and just get the data to use the jeep sensor like robert suggested. Anyone know of a place or person that could do this?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
DOH!
Why didnt I think of that. Searched through my FSM and found a chart for it! The Jeep MAT and CTS have the same ohm readings. I think the gm MAT and CTS have the same readings as well dont they? With this info, can we make a conversion to what we need to change?
What exactly would we need to change, and where is it? Like davew said, is it in hex? If so thats gonna be so far over my head....
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
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