Stock 350tbi 7427 log needed

[Sledhead2]

Tuscan, the link to spread sheet is in post 10 of this message body.

I am new to this and looking at your chart, I think your advance is ok, if this is the base table of program or is this a table showing the amount of advance that needed to be added?

I have to ask, is there a problem you are having with truck?

My truck runs fine, I did data log to learn how, now from posting it here to help you and Dave W running it thru his spread sheet, it appears it does run rich, at idle and off idle, but at cruise it is ok. I am not going to look at changing anything, because long term plan is for new engine swap. Currently I drive truck as needed but it is not my daily driver.

[Tuscanlazers]

Tuscan, the link to spread sheet is in post 10 of this message body.


I am new to this and looking at your chart, I think your advance is ok, if this is the base table of program or is this a table showing the amount of advance that needed to be added?

I have to ask, is there a problem you are having with truck?

My truck runs fine, I did data log to learn how, now from posting it here to help you and Dave W running it thru his spread sheet, it appears it does run rich, at idle and off idle, but at cruise it is ok. I am not going to look at changing anything, because long term plan is for new engine swap. Currently I drive truck as needed but it is not my daily driver.

Yeah I used that spread sheet to get the spark advance screenshot I posted. He's using a different one that has ve tables not just WBO2 stuff.

The table was actual spark advance or in the case of the 20000 something SA negative spark advance.

My truck runs and drives okay but I have a God awful amount of knocks and my gas milage is only 10. I did test my fuel pressure day before yesterday and only had 11psi gm calls for 9-13 but I have read 13 should be the minimum. I may put a new pump in just for the sake of doing so my fuel gauge goes down with breaking when I'm starting to get empty and is pretty inaccurate

I'm just trying to figure out what exactly the cause of it is. I'm still learning how to read the data so I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking at.

[Sledhead2]

Ok from what you say the first thing i would check is the timing, have you checked it? and have you made sure it was check with the computer unplugged, so you get correct base timing. Timing being of could cause both problems, pro gas and spark knock.

Don't worry about fuel pressure it is good, my gas gas does same thing even after I put new sending unit in it, don't both with trying to fix.

[Tuscanlazers]

Ok from what you say the first thing i would check is the timing, have you checked it? and have you made sure it was check with the computer unplugged, so you get correct base timing. Timing being of could cause both problems, pro gas and spark knock.

Don't worry about fuel pressure it is good, my gas gas does same thing even after I put new sending unit in it, don't both with trying to fix.

Unfortunately I have already done that, timing was set to 0 long ago with the timing wire unplugged. It was set at like 10 or 11 when I got it though.

[Sledhead2]

Ok my next thoughts would be

1) How old is distributer?
2) How old is the knock sensor? I have never seen it but have read, headers can give false knock sounds, I have also heard old sensors can cause problems and last I have heard when changes they must be torqued correct or false reading may happen
3) Does truck have load exhaust or headers
4) How many miles on engine?
5) Is it stock, cam wise
6) Have you done compression check?
7) Here's a real curve ball question, what temp is engine running and how old is T stat?

I think I would start with basic health check of engine if you haven't done one yet?

Just trying to help brain storm and think thru this.

[dave w]

. . . do you happen to have a link to the spreadsheet that you used? . . .

It's the same spreadsheet . . . hint . . . copy / paste some .csv data

dave w

[Tuscanlazers]

It's the same spreadsheet . . . hint . . . copy / paste some .csv data

dave w

I've already used the spreadsheet in the link i just thought you had a different one since I don't see a VE vs MAP vs RPM chart.

[Tuscanlazers]

1. the distributor looks fairly new I took it out the other week. I'm not sure the brand though. repasted the ICM probably going to get an acdelco ICM soon.
2. I'm positive the knock sensor is factory but it ohms out right and send the right voltages when hit. Its defiantly on my list of things to replace.
3. I just had the exhaust redone it's not too loud but I do need some new manifolds. also on the list of things to do.
4. there are 270,000 miles on the engine and maybe transmission I'm not sure if either were replaced during the trucks life.
5. not sure about the cam it may have a different cam but I kind of doubt it.
6. compression came out to 120 on most and 130 as a high and 116 as the lowest. this was a cold engine btw.
7 the engine runs at like 180 give or take a few degrees I just replaced the fan clutch and thermometer both temp sensors are brand new. not sure why it runs so cold. it does have a massive radiator on it though and its pretty cold up here in Illinois.

It foes need valve seals and i think im going to go ahead and do the intake manifold again once it warms up.

[tayto]

are you audibly hearing knock?

[dave w]

I've already used the spreadsheet in the link i just thought you had a different one since I don't see a VE vs MAP vs RPM chart.

The spreadsheet I used has some bugs, not a priority for me at this time to fix. The WBO2 tuning spreadsheet provides AFR data for AE, PE, Choke, and Open Loop information not available with the VE vs MAP vs RPM spreadsheet.

I'm mostly LS stuff these days building LS engine harnesses and flashing LS ECM / PCM with stand-alone programming. My time is better spent working on LS stuff.

Acceptable BLM are 128 + / - 5 or between 123 ~ 133. Tuning is strongly recommended for BLM's below 118 and above 138

dave w