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Thread: GM oval fuel pump relay terminals/components/tools?

  1. #1
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    GM oval fuel pump relay terminals/components/tools?

    First off, does anyone know what the late 80's-?? truck fuel pump relays use as the connectors? Here is the relay http://www.ebay.com/itm/RELAY-MULTIP...b94a70&vxp=mtr My TPI relay is rectangular, the truck ones were oval, and what I used for a variety of things on my truck. I thought metri-packs, but then I see the CTS connector being called Metri-pack, and they look dissimilar. Is the appearance difference due to the various sizes? The relays use up to 10AWG.

    Also, does anyone have a specific (cheap) source they like to use with good variety? I'm on a budget, and I can find a crimper that will apparently do the smaller AWG metri and weather-packs for $20 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Open-Barrel-...db83e3&vxp=mtr), but I would prefer to get a kit if someone knows of one. There are so many different terminals for each, buying 25 of every size and design separately adds up pretty quickly.

    Might be nice to quit soldering and simply re-pin the connectors!

    Anyone interested in a group buy? http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...torSearch.aspx Very cheap on at least one of the terminal I need, but $50 minimum. I need a $2 part, I better start checking what else he's selling. That's S10Wildsides (thirdgen.org) site from what I saw mentioned.
    Last edited by dyeager535; 07-17-2012 at 12:15 AM.
    "Frankentruck" is a "1985" K5, TPI 350 '165/6E (Vortec Heads, SDPC2000 base, roller cam, headers), 32 Spline SM465, 205 w/VSS, 10b/14SF, 3.42's and 33" tires. Soon to be boxed frame, '87 sheetmetal, and TPI w/ '727

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    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    You talking about the entire connector that plugs into the relay, or just the terminals?
    If the whole plug, you best and cheapest bet would probably be to get one from a junkyard.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  3. #3
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    No, just the terminals. One of the reason I like thist style of relay is that there are so many of them out there, and they seem to be pretty robust (running my electric fans off of them for a long time now).

    I've got lots of plugs/relays, but I'm planning to re-vamp at least the headlight wiring (4 low/4 high) and fuel pump relay, and I'm going to need to run thicker wire if I go down that path (at least for the lights), and the thicker stuff is just a pain to deal with. Being able to crimp terminals to it should clean up the install quite a bit. Plus not having to worry about too-short pigtails.
    "Frankentruck" is a "1985" K5, TPI 350 '165/6E (Vortec Heads, SDPC2000 base, roller cam, headers), 32 Spline SM465, 205 w/VSS, 10b/14SF, 3.42's and 33" tires. Soon to be boxed frame, '87 sheetmetal, and TPI w/ '727

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    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    The terminals are spade style terminals, but I removed a couple just now to look closer at them and they are not a standard spade , kinda a special weatherpack style. Not sure where you can find those. Might take some digging around.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  5. #5
    Super Moderator dave w's Avatar
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    I get Delphi electrical parts from http://www.mouser.com/

    The fuel pump relay terminals:

    http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine....rd=829-1207741

    http://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Aut...052456&FS=True

    The old seals / cavity plugs are reusable.

    dave w

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    Excellent, thank you. I'll check them out for the '7727 terminals as well. Concurrent projects. :)
    "Frankentruck" is a "1985" K5, TPI 350 '165/6E (Vortec Heads, SDPC2000 base, roller cam, headers), 32 Spline SM465, 205 w/VSS, 10b/14SF, 3.42's and 33" tires. Soon to be boxed frame, '87 sheetmetal, and TPI w/ '727

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    Super Moderator dave w's Avatar
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    I often reuse the old terminals by soldering the wire to the terminals. See pics. The '7727 pins can be reused as well, but excessive solder will prevent the '7727 terminal from fitting back into the cavity.

    dave w
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
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    I didn't look at the crimp on the 7727 terminals, is there any easy way to get the crimp apart without bending the terminals all to heck? I was dealing with one that GM had used silver solder or something similar on, and I ended up using a screwdriver like a chisel to spread the crimp (and making a general mess of the connector), but getting the bent over ears "straight" proved to be impossible for me. I soldered it back together, but it didn't turn out nearly as nice as yours. At least it wasn't one of the weatherproof terminals.
    "Frankentruck" is a "1985" K5, TPI 350 '165/6E (Vortec Heads, SDPC2000 base, roller cam, headers), 32 Spline SM465, 205 w/VSS, 10b/14SF, 3.42's and 33" tires. Soon to be boxed frame, '87 sheetmetal, and TPI w/ '727

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    Super Moderator dave w's Avatar
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    I purchased some of my wiring tools from White Products: http://www.whiteproducts.com/cetools.shtml

    I highly recommend the T-18 Terminal and Seal Crimper Tool!dave w

  10. #10
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    I was looking at that one It looks to me like even if not specifically designed for some other type connectors (not sure exactly what else I may crimp, but...) it might be applicable to other crimps if one were careful.
    "Frankentruck" is a "1985" K5, TPI 350 '165/6E (Vortec Heads, SDPC2000 base, roller cam, headers), 32 Spline SM465, 205 w/VSS, 10b/14SF, 3.42's and 33" tires. Soon to be boxed frame, '87 sheetmetal, and TPI w/ '727

  11. #11
    Fuel Injected! kunsan1987's Avatar
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    try the dorman catalog on pages 18-22


    http://www.dormanproducts.com/flipbo...log/index.html

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    Surprising amount from Dorman too, but I shouldn't be surprised, they've got a pretty extensive catalog. Thanks!
    "Frankentruck" is a "1985" K5, TPI 350 '165/6E (Vortec Heads, SDPC2000 base, roller cam, headers), 32 Spline SM465, 205 w/VSS, 10b/14SF, 3.42's and 33" tires. Soon to be boxed frame, '87 sheetmetal, and TPI w/ '727

  13. #13
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave w View Post
    I purchased some of my wiring tools from White Products: http://www.whiteproducts.com/cetools.shtml

    I highly recommend the T-18 Terminal and Seal Crimper Tool!dave w
    I just ordered a pair of crimpers like the t-11 in the above link. We have a pair just like them at work, they do a good job. I also ordered a assortment of weatherpack terminals too. Bought everything from amazon.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

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    I haven't looked around much other than on the tool trucks, but a truely good set of crimpers is difficult to come by and absolutely imperative to wiring repairs. I obviously have access to good crimpers working at a GM dealer, but have searched for some of my own for a few reasons. The most important feature to look for is an articulating jaw with a compount joint rather than a single simple hinged joint like a pair of pliers or scissors use. I recently got a set of crimpers with quick change inserts that will crimp weatherpack, standard, coax, and even 8mm spark plug terminals. BUT they have a simple hinge and still don't make the quality of crimp needed for a professional result. When I ordered them I was under the impression that they were what I was looking for. They are still an excellent set of crimpers and I use them quite often.

    I NEVER reuse any terminal when performing wiring repairs because I am typically repairing problems due to poor terminal tension that usually cannot be detected without a proper probe. The correct terminals for most applications you will see on GM vehicles up through the late '90's can be found easily and cheaply and I believe that Dave W posted a link to a good site. I will reuse pigtails in a pinch and will normally just replace connectors with new pigtails if the wiring is in good shape, but the best method is to run new high quality wire using new terminals. The connector body and seal are a replace as-needed item. Another important step is to lightly solder terminals after crimping and I believe this is applicable to most terminals GM uses EXCEPT for the late-model micro .64 terminals which should be avoided at all costs anyway and aren't found in older vehicles. It is also recommended to apply a light dab of dielectric grease to any connector before reassembly to avoid terminal fretting.

  15. #15
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    This is SOMEWHAT pertinent, I hope people are still reading, as I know some of you have test benches.

    Does anyone have any idea to A) what this style relay is rated for and B) what the entire injection system draws for ignition 12V while running? I know there will be some variation, but I am working on re-wiring my setup, and realized I'd run pretty much everything off the fuse panel accessory taps. All of those circuits are on 30 amp breakers, yet the fuses for the injection stuff are mostly 10 or 20 amp, which easily exceed the 30 amp breaker rating, yet I've never tripped it.

    I would not be surprised to see that GM had a very large safety margin, but I don't want to start using those relays if they aren't rated to handle the load. I'm going to use an ignition hot to trigger the relay, which will then feed a bus on a separate fuse panel. Instead of running 5 separate wires all the way across the truck to feed things like the injectors, O2 sensor, etc. I will be able to run one long wire from the existing fuse panel, and run much shorter wires from the separate fuse panel to the items that need powered. The combined fuse rating will be somewhere along the lines of 50 amps for the ignition switched.

    I now realize why the later vehicles are running relay/fuse centers underhood. I could use something like that, but the oval relays seem to hold up really well to water and mud, and if I use all the same ones, I only need to carry one spare, if that.
    "Frankentruck" is a "1985" K5, TPI 350 '165/6E (Vortec Heads, SDPC2000 base, roller cam, headers), 32 Spline SM465, 205 w/VSS, 10b/14SF, 3.42's and 33" tires. Soon to be boxed frame, '87 sheetmetal, and TPI w/ '727

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