Thanks
Thanks
Found it ,how do I zero it
Just replace non-zero values with zeros and save it. However, might save-as so always have bin before and after changes. Applies to any changes you make. And keep written notes that accord with a bin file name or version # as you continue to change things as you tune.Originally Posted by Drew1992
If it was easy --- everybody would be doing it!
Would you be willing to look at the bin file?
Yes, but you need to make a log first, while idling and running at various RPMs for a while, all in Closed Loop. Then post exported log .csv file and bin.
If it was easy --- everybody would be doing it!
Thanks
I've got steering column issue , when its fixed I'll get back with you . Thanks
Can't get out of driveway to get run log. Have fixed several vacuum leaks , new fuel pump , filter and adjustable fuel reg. Car runs like crap
Drew ---
If something mentioned here you already know, apologies. Just trying to be thorough.
Many issues, few of which can be determined by looking at a xdl log in TPro. This is the reason a .csv file MUST ALWAYS be exported when chasing problems like yours: Acquisition>Export Log File (or use Ctrl-E). Then select xdl file to export, click Export and name the .csv file with the same name as the .xdl so the association can be maintained. Then save as a .xlsx so panes can be frozen. Can now see what's really happening.
I've attached your .xlsx with the relevant columns at the left.
1) Knock Sensor (KS) Error: "Code 43- ESC Failure" in the log file
The ECM is not seeing any KS voltage (Err 43A). So: a) the sensor is not connected, b) it's faulty, or c) the connection is not solid to ECM Pin 9. Should see about 2.45v with key on/engine off. Must be fixed before anything else.
Without doing a voltage check, must always have some knocks when engine starts due to vibration. If =0, =KS problem. You have 0.
2) INT
The INT is solid at 128 while running. Likely due to KS error.
3) PW
PW is pig rich. This is typical with such large injectors (32#) on a 350. I'd reduce VE in the 0-1000 RPM area at every MAP by approx 30% to see if PW can be brought down to about 2.5ms or so at idle. Note also that commanded idle is 950, but it's idling at 650-700 and IAC is nearly wide open gasping for air due to all the fuel. Surprised you don't need a gas mask while this thing is idling. With your injectors, will need to idle with BLM at 138-140 or so. Yea that's lean, but won't hurt a thing. Will keep your eyes from burning.
4) Knock Retard Degrees (KRD)
Due to the KS issue, have KRD, sometimes at the max. Thus, have way too little spark to properly run, even at idle.
5) Cylinder Volume
A nit, but should be 713 for a 350, not 717.5 unless bored.
HTH, Elky.
If it was easy --- everybody would be doing it!
Thanks I'll work on it this weekend
Car started life as a 92 Camaro Z-28 305 (7730 ecm) 5.0 knock sensor , I've swapped to a 355 using same ecm new chip and 5.7 knock sensor. What knock senor should I use. DRK blue wire going to knock senor has 11.6 volts with key on. Checking pin 9 next
5.7 knock sensor is correct and should have about 3900 ohms resistance (sensor to block).
If it was easy --- everybody would be doing it!
Will check ohms tomorrow , trying to figure out pin 9. Thanks for your help
The wire from the sensor should be directly connected to Pin F9 at the ECM
If it was easy --- everybody would be doing it!
Ive dealt w this exact issue on a 90 vette, that wire should be sensor volts ~5v and not battery volts. While under the car, I saw the splice on the knock sensor wire and another wire near the starter. It was a drk grn wire covered w oily hands that made PO splice it that way. I hope it's a easy fix and good luck!!!
Oh I should mention that this did not cause any starting issues. Our engines are similarly built and I was able to start it and drive it. The KR made it feel seriously under powered though.
Last edited by stew86MCSS396; 02-19-2022 at 07:30 AM.
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