I'm trying to help a long distance friend who has a spare ECM for his 93 Camaro race car. It looks stock but, can't someone erase and burn these chips to keep them looking that way? Does anyone have the BDLD .bin file?
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I'm trying to help a long distance friend who has a spare ECM for his 93 Camaro race car. It looks stock but, can't someone erase and burn these chips to keep them looking that way? Does anyone have the BDLD .bin file?
That silver sticker that says "BDLD" on it covers up a window. With that window exposed, the chip can be exposed to UV light, which will erase it. Once erased it can be overwritten.
If your friend has access to a chip burner (like the TL866) and can buy from an electronics supplier like Digikey or Mouser, he can make an adapter that will let him plug the memcal into the chip burner and read its data. Sadly the BLDL BIN isn't listed on this website, but he could try comparing against one of the other F-body BINs to see.
https://xtronics.com/wiki/EFI_ECU_FAQ.html
Looking at the pictures, it's most likely stock. The original BDLD label is still on the chip. To erase the chip, the BDLD label would have to be removed, allowing UV light to erase the chip. It's possible to remove the BDLD label and then but the label back on, but very unlikely without any tell / tell signs the label has been removed.
Attached is a 93 LT1 BDLD.bin file as read from an original chip.
dave w
Thanks guys, that's what I thought about erasing and burning. FWIU I can read the chip with my Moates Burn2. With your copy of the stock bin, Dave, I can run a comparison if we think we need to go any further into the investigation. This .bin seems to have a higher rev limiter (6K) than the one he's using now so, he'd like to use this one as long as it's legal.
Yep, it does have a higher rev limit than his other stock .bin (not sure which one that is). If we wanted to "tune" this ECM what are our options, solder in a ZIF socket, like @Dave w did with the 7747, Ostrich2.0, APU1? Any others, what's the easiest or best way to go? Thanks again!
Ostrich would be the best for doing the dyno tuning part. Then once you have everything the way you want it, burn it to a chip and put the chip into a memcal adapter. While the Ostrich can be used in-place, I wouldn't recommend using it like that due to the unpleasant environment inside the engine bay. For ECUs that live in the cabin that's one thing, but ours live in our engine bays, so it doesn't work nearly as well.
There is a tool on this site ( Bithoist ) that is able to check many (but not all) GM ObdI calibrations to see if they are stock. Additionally, many hex editors or file compare programs can do a "bit by bit" comparison to determine whether or not two files are exactly the same.
The Ostrich 2.0 is a good option, pic below 16197427.
dave w
Attachment 15616
Thanks again, FWIU you still need the socket booster with the Ostrich 2.0?
Good question .... Moates.net Ostrich 2.0 information link: https://www.moates.net/ostrich-20-th...eed-p-169.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by PlayingWithTBI
Moates.net would be the BEST source to correctly answer the socket booster question.
dave w
I must have misunderstood, both bins have the same fuel cut-off RPMs but the one he's using now, BDZL for a 700r4, is set for an automatic trans in Flags where the BDLD is checked for a manual. Will that allow him to rev as high as he wants without fuel cut-off? He said he's wound it up to 6200 RPM with the BDLD.
Changing the transmission type does not affect the fuel cut-out.
Are you using a list of all the differences between the files? Or are you attempting to search for items that are different by selecting parameters then looking at values? I believe Tunerpro can quickly list all the differences between two calibrations with the same mask.
There have been many internet arguments over the years involving someone who reports their engine cut-out rpm is higher than what's programmed. In some cases the person will report their tachometer is incorrect. This often happens when they can view the datalog from their engine showing fuel cut happening at the correct rpm.
I just looked up the BDZL bin that is here on this site and saw that it said for 700r4 trans so, I looked real quick and found the trans type in Flags. I guess I'm going to try a comparison in TP Pro. He's run both calibrations in different ECMs in the same car with the same tach so, I believe there's a difference between the two, just not too sure what that is. Any ideas, suggestions?Quote:
Originally Posted by 1project2many
I ran the difference tool and this is all I could find that's related to RPMs but, I don't know what RPM/VSS Ratio means. Can anyone help enlighten me?:innocent2:
It’s how the earlier ECMs kept track of where in each gear you are. Since it has no control over the 4L60 (not until the 4L60E in 1994), it instead uses a combination of engine RPM and vehicle speed (VSS) to tell where the start and end of each gear is. That’s minimum and maximum RPM-to-VSS ratio.