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Hi!
Finally got my TPI project running and I'm experiencing random shutdowns. I ran TunerPro RT in record and toward the end of the log, it seems several readings go way outa range then it shuts down. The only thing I don't have hooked up is an O2 sensor as I don't have an exhaust yet.
Anyone mind taking a look at this log file? I have a feeling the PCM is bad. But before I buy another, I wanted to get another opinion.
Thanks!
Pat
You need to post an exported .csv or .xls file from TPro. The .xdl is useless without your XDF file.
Sorry, didnt realize that. Hows this?
ECM not bad. Can beat a 7730 to death physically and electrically and they keep on ticking. You're running this bin based on your PROM code 0x23B: "AUJP 90 F-car 5.7 TPI auto". But with TPI, you can't run in closed loop (CL) without an o2 sensor. Engine idling OK until it goes into CL at sample 658. Once in CL, the o2 sensor is trying to adjust fuel BPW based on sensor's voltage readings. Can't be done without sensor connected; so should turn on the CEL, throw an o2 code 13 and go into limp-home mode. Here's the error code in your situation:
--Error 13: Occurs with an open ECM-to-sensor circuit, or along with other conditions when o2 voltage is between 300 and 600mv for 30 seconds
At the point of error, if you don't have an AUJP or other TPI MEMCAL in the ECM, you're toast and engine will not run properly or at all. Will also have later knock sensor issues. Now what I don't understand is why code 13 is not set in the log because it should be.
You also might want to check your VE table. It seems a bit rich at 650 RPM idle with 2.7-2.8 BPW ms unless you're running a hot engine. If running a 305 with this stock 350 BIN, definitely rich.
HTH
Thanks for looking at that, 84Elky. I was away for the weekend and just getting to this. So what your saying is the memcal is the issue as its not going into limp mode and not setting code 13? The engine is a 355 sbc with Dart SRP heads. Everything else is stock. But your right, it seems rich to me as well. Hoping once I get the o2 sensor hooked up I can get some better logs on it.
What I meant to convey:Quote:
Originally Posted by misterpat
1. It should be going into limp mode, and if you do not have a TPI MEMCAL (preferable AUJP), it will not run. For example, if you have a MEMCAL for a 6 cyl or a carbed v8, all the parameters are incorrect for your engine so it can't run, or at least not properly. What do you have? Look at the info on the back of the MEMCAL. If you can't read it, remove it from the ECM and pull off the blue cover.
2. I don't understand why your log does not show Err 13 being set., but it's not worth running it again to find out until you get an o2 sensor, unless you want to. If done, then after it dies, short pins A/B of the ALDL connector with key on engine off. Should blink out 13 and maybe other codes.
PS --
Not mentioned in the first post -- Once you install the o2 sensor, you might consider following the procedure for setting the TPS voltage (and IAC). TPS voltage is presently 0.71v and above GM spec of 0.54v. Some will set it up to about 0.65v. But know that 0.78v is the critical value. Anything above that and the code assumes the engine is not idling. Not good. Also related to proper idling and determination of other issues is the absolute need for a VSS. Some try to run without one, but many things are affected if not installed (most related to how o2 sensor readings are interpreted because VSS pulses are used to determine if above or below 15 MPH for may o2 related decisions -- all of which affect BPW calculation).
84Elky,
Here is what I got.
Attachment 11893
Attachment 11894
Attachment 11895
Attachment 11896
Before pulling the memcal, I removed the ecm from the jeep. I will re-run it tomorrow and see if I can get the codes to flash through the cel.
On the PS.
Good call on the TPS voltage. I completely forgot about that. It is currently set to .55 volts. I haven't set up the IAC yet, but thats another task after this stalling issue. The VSS will be hooked up. I started a thread on here about feeding the 7730 from a 40 tooth tone ring. Abandoned that idea and I'm going to run the 40 pulse per driveshaft revolution through a DRAC. Going by information from the other thread, I'm going to have the guy who burnt my chip uncheck magnetic vss attached and I should be golden!
Some comments:
- If your memcal had an id sticker on the PROM, it's been removed, so identification difficult
- Was unable to locate the number on the knock filter board (1162308) in a cross reference
- However, it's generally believed the 2nd and 3rd digits can be used to identify the engine for which the filter board was designed. Yours being '
16' also appears to agree to the cal code (16) in the square box at the bottom middle of the filter board.
- Code 16 cross-references to a 4.3L v6 LB4 engine (approx. 1985-1995)
Is this the source of the memcal? If so, 2 things:
1. As previously stated, limp mode cannot be used
2. You will need to modify the knock filter board for compatibility with a v8 knock sensor. Can search for how to do that or replace the memcal with proper type
And BTW, a lot can be learned by asking the person burning your chip what Broadcast code (BCC) is being used (eg - AUJP, ANHT, etc).
Further to all this, strong consideration should be given to learning how to program your own chips. Almost impossible to properly run a non-stock engine without it. If you're moderately computer literate, it's not that difficult.
I contacted the person I bought this memcal from.
I asked what this memcal was from if he knew. I was told to just hook up the exhaust and it will be fine. So no idea what this is from. So I'm following your advice and just bought a AUJP memcal off ebay. I'm going to learn to tune this myself.
EDIT:
Also just ordered a burn2 chip programmer and a gp1 package from moates.net. Lets see what this brings!
EDIT #2:
After many emails and a phone call I learned somethings today and figured I would share them. My memcal is in fact a 4.3 V6 memcal. Here is where it gets good.
The knock sensor and filter go by bore size and the 4.3 and 5.7 share the same bore. All good there.
Limp home V6 to V8 is as simple as snipping a conductor on the chip as per these instructions.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...ification.html
So in fact this memcal is good for this engine. As for the shutting down, I will log it again once the exhaust is on.
Good for you. It's nonsense such as you encountered that's just uncalled for. Glad you cut him loose. Tuning yourself is the ONLY way to go!Quote:
Originally Posted by misterpat
Be careful:Quote:
EDIT #2:
After many emails and a phone call I learned somethings today and figured I would share them. My memcal is in fact a 4.3 V6 memcal. Here is where it gets good. The knock sensor and filter go by bore size and the 4.3 and 5.7 share the same bore. All good there.
Limp home V6 to V8 is as simple as snipping a conductor on the chip as per these instructions.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...ification.html
So in fact this memcal is good for this engine. As for the shutting down, I will log it again once the exhaust is on.
1. Limp Mode: In the above link, pay careful attention to RBob's Post #10 and not blindly follow the other instructions. There are other threads that provide better, more detailed instructions.
2. Knock Filter: Yes, the knock filter board of the V6 is approx. the V8, but in the above link, go to Post # 11 by Tuned Performance and go the link therein and read Post # 17.
PS ---
Might be worth your while to also purchase a HDR1 ($10) from Moates so you can read and save your existing Calibration and have a tuning starting point given it's running OK in open loop. Make sure HDR1 is compatible with Burn2. Personally prefer AutoProm (APU1) albeit more costly because it allows in-car emulation avoiding constant chip burn and change.
HTH
I got my AUJP memcal today, so I'm starting with a fresh aujp bin and going from there. Whats also interesting is I was looking around the bin that was on the memcal that started this mess. The flag for code 43 was unchecked. Hmmmm...
Subscribed. Sure I can learn a lot here. misterpat - you may also want to get a ZIF socket from moates. This will make it easy to remove your chip off the GP1 header. You can pull the chip without this but it gets to be a pain and it is very easy to bend the pins.
Hey MAC. I do have a ZIF socket with the gp1 adapter. But I was also having problems with that also. Right now my project is at the exhaust shop getting a new exhaust done. Once it comes back, I have another ecm, gp1 adapter and eeproms to try to see if that helps.
Ok, got the Jeep back. Swapped out the ECM with another one. Running a new GP1 adapter with a zif socket. I have a slightly modified AUJP bin. Runs great. No stalling at all. Now onto getting my BLM numbers a little better.