ecm 16196395

I am trying to start a 5.7 pulled from a 94 suburban with complete harness . So far I haven't found a 100% correct pin chart . The injectors have no fire at this time but with gas poured in the throat it runs. It was running perfectly the day I pulled the drive train from the suburban. If anyone has the correct pin chart it would be helpful. I am about ready to strip the harness and start from there but I wanted to run the engine first to see if I had everything hooked up correctly. This is my first attempt at fuel injection . Any help would be appreciated

Maybe post #7 has the correct wiring diagram for the 94 Suburban? See link below

I'm wondering if the injectors have ignition power. The Red and White wires going to injectors should be the ignition power to the injectors.

dave w

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...Information-OE

The post Dave mentioned is correct for a 4l80e transmission and can be used for 6395 or 7427. I believe if using 4l60e the post for 7427 $ OD is the correct one.

It has the 4L60 trans And there is no power at the injectors

The injectors should have power any time the key is on. All the ecm does is ground the circuit. My guess would be if it all worked fine when pulled that something hasn't been hooked up in the harness. Try verifing all the connections.

I am thinking that there is a power circuit that I have not energized. Just not sure what pins are batt +

I think E16 is batt +. E15 and F15 are 12 volt from ign I think. Going back to previous post of no power to injector, they do not get power from ecm. They get power from the key controlled ign battery buss. You said it ran if you poured gas in so that would say to me the ecm has 12 volts or the ignition wouldn't work and it wouldn't run at all.

I'm extremely reluctant to ever mention wire colors in a TBI harness, because sometimes different colors are used.

Generally, but not ALWAYS:
Orange is Battery +
Pink with Black Stripe is Ignition (On / Start)
Ground (Battery -) is Black with white stripe.

Depending on how the harness was removed from the donor vehicle, an ignition wire might be cut. It's possible the cut wire might be different color than the ones listed above.

The secondary locks have to be removed from the red / blue connectors to see the pin numbers. Blue connectors are Pins E & F. Red connectors are Pins A & B. The secondary locks are usually marked with Letter "C" & "D", which can be confusing.

dave w

adding pics

dave w

Ok I now have the engine running on the stand. Now to start stripping the harness of the unused wires. Any diagrams or instructions available ? One post says to plug the sensors in and follow them to the ecm. Does that mean strip everything else ? Thanks to all for the help

I'm not aware of a step by step instruction for simplifying a harness. In general the steps are listed below.

1. Identify the connectors needed; connectors like Fuel Pump Relay, Fuel Pump, TPS, IAC, O2, Injectors, CTS, MAP, ALDL, Oil Pressure Switch, Ignition Coil, and Distributor.
2. Identify the power and grounds; ignition (on / start), battery + (positive), and battery - (negative).
3. Identify the fuse requirements; injectors, computer, and ??? I recommend following the factory AMP ratings for the fuses.
4. Remove what's not needed; Emissions? / Air Conditioning?
5. Word of CAUTION ... some wires are spliced together inside the harness. Solder splicing wires is better than BUTT splicing wires!!

Based on my own personal experience ... it takes me more time to simply a used harness as opposed to building a new harness from scratch. See attached pictures. The looks of the new harness vs. the simplified harness, well it's very obvious the new harness is better looking than the simplified used harness!

dave w

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dave w

I'm not aware of a step by step instruction for simplifying a harness. In general the steps are listed below.

1. Identify the connectors needed; connectors like Fuel Pump Relay, Fuel Pump, TPS, IAC, O2, Injectors, CTS, MAP, ALDL, Oil Pressure Switch, Ignition Coil, and Distributor.
2. Identify the power and grounds; ignition (on / start), battery + (positive), and battery - (negative).
3. Identify the fuse requirements; injectors, computer, and ??? I recommend following the factory AMP ratings for the fuses.
4. Remove what's not needed; Emissions? / Air Conditioning?
5. Word of CAUTION ... some wires are spliced together inside the harness. Solder splicing wires is better than BUTT splicing wires!!

Based on my own personal experience ... it takes me more time to simply a used harness as opposed to building a new harness from scratch. See attached pictures. The looks of the new harness vs. the simplified harness, well it's very obvious the new harness is better looking than the simplified used harness!

dave w

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Do I have to ues the vss box? will the trans work properly without it {4L60}?

Will the trans work properly with out the vss box and if not does anyone have the wiring diagram for the Vss #16185645 ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by choppermtn

Do I have to ues the vss box? will the trans work properly without it {4L60}?

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What are you using for a speedometer cable? Maybe you can use an inline VSS with the speedometer cable?

Check out JTR for an inline VSS (2k or 2000 pulses per mile): http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Spe...eedometer.html

If you DO NOT have a speedometer cable, you will need the the VSS Box to convert the 40 pulses per driveshaft VSS signal from the 4L60E into 2000 pulses per mile signal that the 16166395 needs to control the 4L60E.

dave w