...Camaro w/ an LT1 that I’m a little skeptical about the programming of so here trying to learn and then verify and fix it.
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...Camaro w/ an LT1 that I’m a little skeptical about the programming of so here trying to learn and then verify and fix it.
:welcome:
Are you able to post the flash from the LT1 computer?
dave w
Here's the bin file. I only pulled it yesterday from the 1994 vintage ecm using EEHack and have not figured out what the best next step is to read what I have. I'd appreciate input on what would be good if the bin file isn't ideal to read etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by dave w
Thanks
rik
Have you seen the gearhead-efi $EE information available on this tread? http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...rmation-EE-EEB
In post 10 is the TunerPro .xdl file so you can see the information in the .bin file you posted.
YouTube has some helpful, but sometimes confusing, TunerPro video's that might help.
TunerPro download is available here: https://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm
dave w
welcome, nice to have another LT1 around
best way to see what's been done is compare that bin with the original calibration in tunerpro using the bin compare tool with a good definition so you can tell what's been changed...
i'll do it but also walk you through how to do it yourself
- download tunerpro (best bin editor), don't need tunerpro RT
- download EEX xdf (see my signature, best tunerpro definition...biased opinion for sure but nobody here will argue with you)
- open tunerpro and load XDF and your downloaded BIN
- in the parameter tree select 'view by: parameter category' so the eex xdf is easier to read
- browse through some stuff in your bin to get used to tunerpro a bit
now to compare.
- find a factory bin based on calibration ID assuming it's up to date with the base bin used (i checked. it's 16207211)
- download factory bin from my site http://fbodytech.com/bin-files-2/bin-files/ (the actual bin is http://fbodytech.com/bin/EE_16207211.bin)
we can see here your bin here is for a b-body car, so.. iron headed engine?? automatic? or....
- load the factory bin into tunerpro's 'compare' menu
- use tunerpro's tools -> difference tool
- ignore everything below 0x2000 and between 0x10000 and 0x12000 (no need to do anything just dont pay attention to those values)
okay so the first thing i notice is this doesn't look like your b-body bin. too much different, transmission..fan.. o2 sensors... so who knows whats been flashed to it. the calibration ID is obviously not what matches your bin. it's just too different.
thing is the calibration ID isn't stored in the bin itself it's in the EEPROM (which is USUALLY set by any sane tuner but it's not a guarantee) in your case i'd say cal id you dumped from eeprom when you read the bin is incorrect
lets download this and compare with yours instead...
http://fbodytech.com/bin/EE_16209461.bin
that's better. some diagnostic codes common to a swap have been disabled, a/c stuff, skip shift has been disabled, etc. but the bin roughly matches. a bunch of timing advance has been modified, stuff like that
actually looks like a fairly professional tune. nothing really stands out too much
anyway poke around and if you have any questions about specific stuff let us know
Will check it out. Thank you.
completed a total/major restoration of this 69 Camaro 6+ yrs ago w/ the intention of driving it a lot but the odometer shows 1,700 miles today and not for any particular negative reason - just the typical lack of time to enjoy for family or other toys and irons in the fire. I’m also selective about the weather etc. It’s never been in rain nor even washed with water. Sits under cover in garage most of the time. The engine was a new takeout from a 97 Firebird or Camaro from SLP engineering when they were installing LT4’s back in those days so this was basically a new LT1 installed in approx 2012. I kept the original 4-spd for a few years but changed it to a Tremec 5-spd 3-4 yrs ago for better hwy cruise efficiency. Think I told the person that programmed the ecm back in 2012 I wanted to cut out all the non-essentials while keeping what it needed to run as strong but also efficiently as possible. My main concern is a high idle rpm typically after driving. Drove it this morning about a 9 mile loop to try the EEhack data logging and it idles around 1000 before driving but 1750+ after and this is what brought me to this sight. I like to DIY when I can but “experience” has taught me to pick those battles and I’m thinking the tweaking of this ecm settings might be one that I’ll defer to someone else. In fact, that’s what I was on the verge of doing and realized I could at least do a little research to possibly determine if I have any major issues before forking over the coin to someone again only to be told it’s as good as it’s gonna get. Don’t think the latter is the case but it’s not too shabby but that there is room for improvement. Just what is the best way to go about accomplishing that though? I’ve got quite a bit more experience with operating and reviewing data logs from aircraft engines which are quite a bit simpler w/ cht, egt, fuel flow gals/hr etc and, after reviewing the EEhack'd data log from this morning, I find it to be a different language and that I probably have more productive things to do with my time than learn this. I’m also kind of questioning if I should add the MAF back but, given I drive it mostly at the same elevation, maybe Speed Density is fine. If it matters, the car has a Vintage A/C system, no VSS ( another item I’m wondering about adding ) and nothing else attached to the trans other than the mechanical speedo cable.
if you don't have a VSS you're going to have bizarre idle problems. the stock lt1 code needs to know whether you're moving or not. when moving you get open loop idle (it adds steps) and when stopped or nearly at a stop, it goes into closed loop idle and tries to attain a target. basically you're running a car without proper IAC idle targets right now.
Working on adding a vss. Thank you
now that i think of it, there was a really nice guy i used to talk to with an lt1, no vss, and vintage a/c with no sensors in a 1st gen with idle problems. pretty much same as you. if problem persists i can try to remember who it was and put you in touch. im sure hed be able to advise
I obtained a GM wiring diagram for the 1994 LT1 ECM to work on getting a VSS reading to the computer but it looks like the person that programmed the ecm and built the harness for me years ago used a different pin out scheme. How would be the easiest way to go about determining what pins go to what function? OR if I added the High and Low speed pins to open ports, would something like CATS Tuner be what I need?
tunerpro and eehack will be fine.
there's no 'different pinout scheme'.
EVERY lt1 is the same pinouts to the ECM.
there is no way to realistically change the pinout by reprogramming in any meaningful way since pins are hardwired to specific a/d ports with pull up and down circuitry and filters specific to those sensors
this includes OBD-II ecms too! (they just use a few more pins for the extra sensors)
you can't just use 'open ports', everything in your ECM is wired to specific d/a converters
obviously your wiring diagram is screwy
you want A31 to VSS GROUND and A32 to VSS SIGNAL
connector A is the RED connector (if your harness doesn't have colored plugs for some reason, it's written on the ECM case
the stock wiring colors are purple ground yellow signal
the pins are labelled when you take the connector apart
here be some good references http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#1995_pcm_pinouts
So I've found the VSS plug and the harness label for it says "40 pulse per rev". The technical contact at Silver Sport Transmissions says "The GM VSS puts out 17 pulses per revolution of the driveshaft." I was able to reach the harness builder and programmer over the weekend with an unrelated question but he's out of contact this week so curious if the ecm needs to be programmed for this "40..." vs "17 pulse" difference before the VSS is connected. Thanks