1996 LT1 to 12200411 PCM conversion help

Hello everyone! I’m still trying to wrap my head around this project,
it feels more like I’m getting “Wrapped around the axle” I’m reading more
about spark tables and advancing/retarding the timing according to
map-vs.rpm’s-vs.temp, etc. I found an online calculator that helps you
start initial spark tables, perhaps one of you guy’s can look this over and
see if it comes close. It’s from a site that uses “microSquirt” efi.
It ask’s specifics like:

http://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm

Cylinder Bore:	inches millimeters
Combustion Chamber Type:	open chamber - little or no quench 2-valve closed chamber w/ optimized quench 3 or 4 valve engines, w/ swirl&tumble
Fuel:	regular (87 octane) mid-grade (91 or 92 octane) premium (94+ octane) E85
Compression Ratio:	< 9.0:1 9.1:1 to 10.0:1 10.1:1 to 11.5:1 > 11.6:1
Idle Vacuum:	in·Hg
Maximum boost level: (0 for naturally aspirated, max. boost (psi) for turbo/supercharged)	psi (21 psi maximum)
Maximum RPM:	RPM
Idle RPM:	RPM
Spark advance table dimensions:	8×8 12×12 16×16 24×24 MS-I uses 8×8 tables; MS-II, MicroSquirt, and the Sequencer use 12×12 tables.

if anyone has a different calculator or spreadsheets that can help us “Noobies” Please share,
I really want to understand the flow of how everything works together.
thanks again!
have a great day!
Ben Smith

Hello all!
Just thought I’d post an update to my project. After chasing gremlins for the better part
Of the last week, I figured out two problems with my setup.
1.) I’m sure everyone has witnessed “broken MAP sensor connector locks breaking” Well, mine
Was no better. Since I had a couple spare connectors handy, I un-pinned the wires from the
connector, but “ failed to mark each Wire location” ( the middle one was easy, the light green sensing wire)
But I managed to swap the 5v ref. Wire with the ground and, the readings I got confused the hell out of me.
When I back probed the connector of the gray 5v ref wire, it was right on, and the ground as well,
But when I installed the connector on the sensor, well you know the rest: my 5v ref signal was reading 1.745volts-
Wtf? And my Map sensor read 25 KPA all the time, regardless of engine rpm’s. I finally gave in and broke out
the schematics (again) to verify the order of wires to the map connector ( insert bone head mistake of the year award here) 1E2ADEF1-37F3-43CD-BBF6-9EFB2B62423B.gif
After I corrected that, my MAP sensor reads spot on now,
And the engine is Idling smooth again.

My second problem was my TPS sensor would not adjust to .5volts, I even elongated the mounting holes,
I finally had to bend the tab on the Throttle body (at the adjustment screw) in order to get my adjustment right.

So now, I have no DTC’s and I can proceed with data logging and fine tuning this beast. (Just in time to put it away
for winter) dang.......
It's been a real learning curve to say the least, but as they say: “ Knowledge is power” I’ve never “thrown in the Towel” on any project I’ve started , and I don’t intend to start now!
Well, work calls so have a Great Day!
Ben Smith

Hello everyone!
Just wanted to update everyone on what I’ve accomplished so far. I finally found the reason
my engine was running so rough, and I am embarrassed to say, I had a “Brain Fart” while re pinning
my harness....I’m sure most, if not all have found the retaining clip on the MAP sensor is prone to breaking
Off. I had an extra connector laying around and decided to unpin the wires and simply swap the connector.
Well, I didn’t mark the locations and mixed them up (the light green sensing wire was easy, since it was in the
center, but I had the 5v ref. And ground swapped) so I kept getting weird reference voltage readings like 1.73 volts
But everything is good now, with the exception of a bad O2 sensor ( and I just replaced with new Delco sensors)

So, I wanted to post my data log here for everyone to review and feel free to make any suggestions to what I need to change/modify to get this beast “dialed in”!
One thing I noticed while driving the car: at deceleration, it backfires Through the exhaust, and randomly while driving.
I’m sure that bank two O2 sensor is causing that. I also noticed my speedo was off, it was reading “30 mph” when it was more like “60 mph” likely the VSS pulse count need changing.
So, here is the data logs I have made so far, and I’ll get more done later after I replace that O2 sensor.
Thanks!
Ben Smith

Hello again! I’ve replaced my non functioning O2 sensor(bank 2 sensor 1) and I’m going to
do more data logging tomorrow. While driving the other day, and even when the engine was
idling, it was “Back Firing” through the exhaust, not sure if the bad O2 sensor might have contributed
to this. I’m sure my timing needs addressing, as the car doesn’t have much power while “Rowing
through the gears” well, I’ll post more logs when I record them.
Have a good one!
Ben Smith

anything new? or stuck away fro winter?

No, as a matter of fact, replacing the plugs and O2 Sensors today, I dont have much time to work on my car as I’d like, so Sundays are it. Hoping I get some results today.I’ll post later on what I find out.
Ben Smith

Hello all,
been trying to get over this Dreaded "covid" thing, been lucky up till now. two years and never caught it, guess my luck had run out. IO had all but given up on the firebird 0411 swap, had it running for a good six months, then one day last winter, while driving home she back-fired on me and never was able to figure out why. had replaced the coil, crankshaft sensor and ignition module, but never could get it fire again.
so, I set about testing each and every sensor, I got the coil to fire by manually by applying a one volt signal to the module if I recall correctly. but I could not get the crankshaft sensor to pulse, I tried
to switch around the leads on the sensor, but couldn't get the required signal from the PCM. I have since obtained one of those pocket nano oscilloscopes to check the wave length of the signal.
i'll have to try that and see if I get a good signal.
I recently went "backwards" in my setup, as I changed over to a carbureted setup, thinking I'd drive the car for a while I researched all my gremlins, but I have been having a change of heart, and Now I'm going to "un-do" my changes. I think all the pulling of the PCM for programming and /or checking of the pins may have caused some connections to break or lose contact. so I'm changing my wiring harness to ensure I have good connections end for end. since all my sensors are new, shouldn't be too difficult to achieve. My only hope is that the weather stays nice while I'm under the hood!
I hope everyone had a great Christmas and New Years, hope to get this turkey (Firebird) finished soon,
Have a good one!
Ben Smith