My toy is 93 S10Blazer with a 95 LT1 350 with a 1995 4L60E slide in it. Hoping to learn some more tuning tips.
Printable View
My toy is 93 S10Blazer with a 95 LT1 350 with a 1995 4L60E slide in it. Hoping to learn some more tuning tips.
:welcome:
i'll help ya as much as i can, but tunerpro with my definition file is a damn good start, considering most stuff is documented:
http://resfilter.net/files/carstuff/EEX/
Steve thanks for the offer. I was looking a stock LT1 with A4 so I can work out some Transmission issues with the lock-up going in and out. I beleive I'm going to have the valve body updated to fix the issues. As for the Tune that's in there I did the email order through LT1 PCM Tuning with Solomon getting me close. Thanks Again KenQuote:
Originally Posted by steveo
The converter acting up is likely in the tune. Have you got TunerPro with the correct xdf and adx files setup so you can log and open bin files? Have you got Winflash or another program to pull the tune and look at it?
There are a number of stock tunes stored here;
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gearhead-efi/bin/16188051/
I'm hoping I can get it straightened out with the stock trans settings. I do have the RT Tuner from Tuner Cats and a Trial version of Data master for data logging. Unfortunately until I purchase the Data Master registration I can not access the trans info. Does Winflash record the trans Info? The trans has been rebuilt but I'm not sure what was done as far valve body updates. Other possible issue maybe the less exspensive Dayco Torque Convertor. What I 've read about the 95 4L60E was that is was the begining of a new version of the 4L60E where GM started adjusting how quickly the TC Locks-up. I also read some articles about staking the TCC valve or installing a longer spring to keep the TCC valve from moving and making the trans act more the 92-94 4L60E's.Quote:
Originally Posted by lionelhutz
I have aready download a stock 95 LT1 A4 for the F-Body only thing is I'm running the caprice/impalla (all cast iron ) LT1 with the LT4 HotCam Kit with Camaro/Vette 3.5" MAF Sensor 3.5" Cold Air Intake with 58mm Throttle body. So don't think I can't just put in the Camaro or Vette Tune. Anyway I'm almost finished with a modified version of a purchased tune while incorporating alot of the stock trans setting that make sense. Hopefully I will get it loaded and datta logged Saturday. Hopefully it will stop raining here in NC, so I can run it through 1st & 2nd at WOT after i see everything is ok. I really need to get the Datta Master registered so I can view the trans.
You have the OBD1 RT Tuner? TTS Datamaster will log the transmission without registering unless a recent version changed that. You can bring up the recording window 20 times. In the recording window, you have to switch from engine to engine&transmission or transmission to get the transmission data. Then, just switch to a different port when you are flashing and switch back to the correct port to log again.
Or, download TunerPro RT and the xdf file linked by steveo (which is awesome work) and the adx linked below and use it to both log and tune. You can use Tunercat Tuner to tune if you want and to read and flash your computer.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...ull=1#post3131
Yes it's the OBD1 RT Tuner.Quote:
Originally Posted by lionelhutz
I will set it to engine and trans tomorrow.
There is a huge amount of information on here. Man do I have a lot reading and understanding to figure out.
94 to 95 are different bin files as are 94 to 95 transmissions. So what transmission do you have? 95 went to PWM TCC lockup. The bin files should not be switched.
The main things to know are the gear, throttle position percentage and the speed to adjust the TCC. Then, you open the engage and release tables for the TCC, pick out the gear and %TPS and look at the speed in the cell that corresponded to the driving condition when it acted up. You then change it to what you want it to be.
Each gear and the TCC have the same settings. Each upshift, downshift, TCC lockup and TCC release is a curve using %TPS vs speed.
The transmission will downshift or release the TCC when the speed is below the mph corresponding to the %TPS in use.
The transmission will upshift or apply the TCC when the speed is above the mph corresponding to the %TPS in use.
The transmission will do nothing when the mph is between the two speeds in the tables.
And yes, the release or downshift speed for each %TPS has to be lower then the corresponding apply or upshift speed.
I agree and have the 95 version. I have been using a 95 F-Body LT1 A4 for comparing the stock transmission settings to my purchased tune that was set-up to be fimer and shift later .
I mentioned the 92-94 trans when I spoke of a fix to the 1870 Trans Code by staking the TCC bore to stop the TTC valve from moving in the valve body. The way I understood the article was this staking , made the 95 trans function more like the 92-94 by having only the on-off lock-up solenoid working the TC Lock-up.
Thanks
Thanks, This makes alot of sense. I will take another good look at all the trans and TCC Tables.
I've got a similar engine/transmission combo to yours in a 65 Impala.
The hardware is a 96 F-body LT1 and 4L60E (I think, it's from an ODBII car so it's a 96 or 97), a 94 M/T F-body PCM and harness, 94 B-body transmission wiring with the extra PWM wire added. I pulled the harness all apart, removed all the extra wires, lengthened or shortened a number of the wires and then re-wrapped it so it fits around the engine nice and neat.
As for the bin. I started with a 95 A/T F-body bin and use the Tunercat calculator to automatically adjust for the gear and tire diameter differences. The transmission tuning was terrible. I had to adjust the WOT shift points (really only use 1-2 at WOT), every upshift and downshift curve and the TCC release and lockup curves. It's not perfect but it drives quite nicely now and is almost always in the right gear and lock-up the way I'd want it to be.
You mentioned doing WOT runs. Here is another hint. There is a kickdown mode vs MPH and a kickdown mode vs RPM table. You have to be above both the MPH and RPM to shift at WOT. You want to set the MPH low enough you know you're good there and then use the RPM table to set the shift points.
Maybe someday I will be able to do the older muscle car build. 65 Impala is a great muscle car platform. Glad things are working out for your car .
My buddy had a 66 Chevelle BBC 4 speed back in high school. Wish I could have gotten it when he sold her.
Anway the blazer definnetly shifted better (smoother) and at more appropriate speeds at lite throttle. I only took short drive up to the store a back. 5 miles. Everything looked OK on the data log. She still running a rich , about 110 to 118 on the long term blms. This trip was all in town and didn;t get to see if the TCC was going to stay locked up on the highway running 70-75mph. I did get a WOT run through 3 gear on a nice abandon straight stretch near the house . The 1-2 shit was at 5650 rpm at 43 mph ,2-3 was 5475 rpm at 67mph , 3-4 was at 5100rpm at 102mph . During the WOT run O2 MV's stayed about 800 to 900. From what I have read that pretty rich. Hope to start leaning it down some soon.
No! That is where they should be at WOT, your in PE so AFR changes closer to 12.5.Quote:
Originally Posted by nchittman
As far as 110 to 118 BLM at cruise that to is not perfect but in ballpark so don't kill yourself, they will change with weather!
Did you use the WOT BLM locker in the $EE thread? It's a good thing for keeping stable fueling at WOT.
The LT-1 4l60E trans tuning from factory is one big slooooosh... I found the quickest trick to better shifting was to start with a 94 Caddy V4P tow package bin. Now you have a 95 so can't start there... but you can load that bin as a Compare and use all the shift tables. Drives more like a truck then a caddy sloooooosh box.