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Well my son confirmed the knock sensor for 1995 5.7L Manual is same as 1990 1227747 C3 knock sensor.Quote:
Originally Posted by gregs78cam
SO he is going to get the one listed for 1995 5.7L auto which we know is 16197427 with knock module in Memcal.
If you ever see Kid-Neutron here give him a thanks for the research.
Here's a short list of knock sensors and ESC's
ESC Module(GM #)..Knock Sensor(GM #) ..Known Applications
16052391 .............10456287 .................5.0L V8
16052401 .............10456288 .................5.7L V8
16128261 .............10456288 .................5.7L V8
16065711 .............10456288 .................4.3L V6, 5.7L V8
16128251 .............10456288 .................4.3L V6, 5.7L V8
16131171 .............10456288 .................7.4L V8
305 truck sensor is probably close enough but if you're picky you can use a knock sensor from a 95 car with 3800. That engine has a 3.80" bore. Standard Ignition uses the same sensor for a pile of engines with 3.75" to 3.875" bores. Connecting knock sensors in parallel lowers total resistance of knock sensor circuit and lowers voltage sensed at memcal in ecm/pcm. Voltage range for code 43 can be adjusted in many cals and should be checked if using a cal from dual sensor 4.3 engine as it looks like GM used same sensor for single and dual applications. Older / low resistance KS can also be used by doing same trick. TGO and gnttype.org are two places to find good values for KS as Grumpy switched over to 7749 on his GN and retained old Buick KS. There are filter values in software which can be adjusted some to try and reduce false knock or increase sensitivity, and tricks like using teflon tape or mounting KS in pipe fittings instead of directly in block can help filter out unwanted vibration.
Humm...
Might have to try a couple of those tricks when I get some time.
Found this nifty little device/gauge while searching for knock info.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...roducts_id=595
And some plan to make your own!
(see attachmant)
Very cool and worth doing: Get a small amplifier like the one they advertise at 2 am on the tv for listening to other people's conversations. Tear the amp apart, disconnect it from the mic, and connect ity to the knock sensor instead to listen to the engine.
It's amazing and surprising how much noise you'll hear.
I' believe it. I've got a doctors stethoscope with metal rod, it's amazing at listening to an engine. If you have a noise in like alternator bearing or water pump you can't really pin down it will find it.
What about the numbers on the ESC board inside memcals? Are they just diffrent numbers, or do the numbers actually represent diffrent esc's?
I have 3 7427 memcals settin here on the computer desk. One is from a 350 auto ($0D BJYL) with a esc# 2265201. Next one is a 350 auto from a 95 P30 van, ($31 BNKM) esc# 234511? The last number is under some bubbles in the goo, kinda looks like either a 0 or 8. Last memcal is from a 4.3 tbi ($0D BDYT) esc# 1164141.
Anyone have any more 7427 memcals they can compare?
hey just a thought we been putting ls7 ks in the ls1's to eliminate false knock, wonder if they would help any on older stuff???
The blue or purple numbers under the clear goo on the ESC filter represent an engine family and a date code. They're usually only 5 digits IME. I have a small list of engine to filter number on my other pc. I'll try and dig it out when I have more time. I know of a few guys that have used LT4 knock filters instead of factory ones, but I don't know about the LS filters.
well im clueless just thought i would throw that piece in lol
:) Yeah, but it's questions like that which make people think and try new stuff.